Twist and Stow Question

Got a new Revolution in this morning. It arrived fine but the rudder cables were torn out of it. I think I have everything back in place, correctly. I can raise and lower the rudder but there is one thing I can't do - lock it in the down position. It just hangs there and I wonder if water pressure alone will cause it to lift or move.

My older Outback has the older style non-twist and stow rudder and has three positions: Up/Lock, Down/Free and Down/Lock. I normally run it Down/Free so it will kick up if I hit an obstruction, but it has some heft and doesn't lift when moving through the water in Free mode.

I understand that the T&S can supposedly be locked down by putting the Down cord into the clamcleat. But that doesn't lock mine any tighter than running it in the completely free mode. Don't get me wrong - I prefer to have it able to kick if I hit something, but this one doesn't seem to have anything at all to keep it down while underway. The "detent" the owner's manual speaks of seems non-existant on my boat.

I think I have everything in the way it's supposed to go. Just not sure how much tension should be holding the rudder down. Mine has none.

Tom, how did you end up with a boat without rudder lines? Is this a new boat? I think the boats are supposed to be inspected and signed off before they leave the factory. The dealer should go over the boat as well before he delivers it, unless you want to receive it all wrapped up.

The T&S rudder need to be locked down or you will lose directional control (as you'll soon find out). If properly adjusted, it should more-or less snap into a small detent (rather inconspicuous). If not, snugly tensioning the down line in the cleat will do the job.

When I pull the line taut in the cleat it's under a great deal of tension but the rudder will still easily kick up.

I found the snap lock on the rudder mounting bracket and will take a look at how that should operate. Thanks.

Sounds like your "down" line is hung up on something inside the hull. I'd trace each line and see if any are catching on something like a knot from another line or on the wrong side of a scupper hole or pole holder.

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Hobie Island Sailing since 2006

I got the detent snap to work, but there is no way to retract the rudder with the "up" cord once the detent snaps in place.

While I like the concept of being able to get the rudder and up over the back of the boat, the operation of the older style rudder was much smoother and easier.

You certainly have something wrong. The detent and hook is not really a latch... it was designed back when we used the little black lever system for raising and lowering the blade. It is only designed to hold the rudder when loaded from the one side to help hold it down under the load direction that would otherwise cause the blade to come up (due to the twist in the raising geometry).

The hook is not really needed with the "T" handle line system, but still assists. The down line tension keeps the rudder down when cleated with tension.

The drum bolt is too tight if the hook engages and will not easily pop loose.

Take a look at the rudder manual for details:

http://www.hobiecat.com/support/articles/archive/?src=http://2010.archive.hobiecat.com/support/tech/Twist-n-Stow_Repair_Manual.html

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I didn't get a rudder manual (didn't know such a thing existed) so thanks for this one. From here I should be able to get things squared away. I'm a firm believer in having and use the factory instructions.

Yeah... This is a repair manual we did last year. Not provided with the boat.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)