Malone Micro Sport Trailer

I have a Pro Angler 14 and an Outback. I am thinking of purchasing a Malone Micro Sport trailer. My question is whether I can back that trailer into the water to unload?

"The lights are not waterproof. Don't try backing your trailer into the water with the lights hooked up or you might pop a few bulbs."

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2009 Oasis
2012 Freedom Hawk Pathfinder

Like mentioned unplug the lights at the vehicle. When you pull up to set up, load gear in kayak, unplug at that point. The time between the unplug and the time that you back it down, the lamps would have had enough time to cool down.

Just remember to get in the habit of walking around the trailer when your ready to get on the road. Turn lights on, verify they work. Check straps and if anything has been left behind.

Thanks so much for your replies, great help. We have a travel trailer and we check lights and do a complete walk around before we pull out so will continue that habit with the kayaks.

The lights on my Hobie Trailex trailer are not waterproof, but rated for water launching/dunking.....in any case I did not like the location as they were so low down and IMHO not as visible as they should/could be. So I decided to relocate/mount them on the aft carry handle of my PA-14 using a 2 x 2 and a "pig tail cable"....simple and easy to do + the lights are now high enough for vehicles behind me to easily see and I remove them prior to launching......"plug/unplug as required".
I used "U-bolts" to attach the 2 x 2 as shown in the photo.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR

I have the Magneta trailer for my PA 14. Came with LED lights, which are great, but I still unplug anyway. Don't know if you're set on the Malone. If not, the Magneta may be worth a look. They're out of Hull, Iowa and make a quality product. Just my opinion.

With every trailer I have had problems with the lights as in order to make it possible to replace the tungsten lamps they outer housing is not watertight. One option is to use something like ProFlex adhesive sealant on the lens where it attaches and also where the wiring enters the lamp housing. Second option is buy a $45 pair of LED trailer lights that are completely sealed. I went with the second option on my last boat trailer.

Be aware that some of the LED trailer lights are not sealed and will provide no real advantages over the old tungsten type. I also use marine grade connectors or butt splice terminals and connectors that use heat shrink tubing to provide a tight seal over the wire.

The smaller wheels on these trailers spin a lot and burn through the grease. I carry a grease gun with marine grease and add it to the bearings when I arrive at a launch area. Otherwise the bearings hit the cold water and a vacuum results that can suck in the salt water.

So I rest my case for not "dunking" the trailer lights into the water, plus elevating them, improves visual safety for the vehicles behind the trailer.

Wintersun's tip about greasing the bearings prior to launch is spot on.
Fortunately, with the PVC pipes/cradle design I made to my trailer, I do not need to submerge the wheels and axle into the water for launch/recovery.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Warrenton, OR