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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:48 pm
Posts: 278
Location: Missoula, Montana
Circumnavigator wrote:
Based on the suggestions, I just changed out the standard rudder for the large sailing rudder. It was very easy to install and substantially bigger. I can't wait to test it out!

Just one caution about the sailing rudder - if you jerk the steering lever too fast, your Revolution may lurch abruptly. Start out easy and gentle until you figure out how your kayak responds to the rudder.


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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 6:52 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:54 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Boise, Idaho
Thanks, I will deploy it cautiously until I know the response. Hopefully my Scotty Downrigger low drag braided line will come in tomorrow so I can test out both the rudder and new downrigger line on the weekend.


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:20 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:54 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Boise, Idaho
I just completed a couple of additional modifications based on others feedback. First, I switched to braided line. Now that I've tested this fishing, I'll never go back to wire. The difference is that the downrigger line hum is virtually eliminated with the braid. I understand that the blow back is also reduced, but what I really wanted to do was to cut down on the hum. Second, I shortened the boom by 8" from the original length of 16". I could have gone shorter, but was I didn't want to cut too much off... I figure I can always cut more, but I can't make it longer. Finally, I added a line with a "D hook" so I could clip the ball to when not in use. I just looped a line over the drain pipe. My thought was that this method would be snag-less and removable, too.

I haven't tried the shorter boom, but I think I will like it. If nothing else, I'll be able to reach the downrigger line easier.

I have tried the Scotty rod holder next to the drain pipe and this is now my go-to rod holder. It sits the rod out in front nicely, and I can easily see the rod tip without craning my neck. I will keep the rod holder on the Cannon downrigger as I have been using it as a convenient rod storage if I need it (not when I'm using the downrigger, though).

Once again, I can't wait to get back out on the water and do some more fishing with it. Here is how the rig looks now:

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:30 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:54 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Boise, Idaho
I keep meaning to get a picture of the rig in action, but I keep forgetting. But my view out the bow is amazing.

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:48 pm
Posts: 278
Location: Missoula, Montana
Three minor suggestions about your downrigger setup:

1. I use Scotty 175 pound Spectra braided downrigger line in my Cannon Lake-Troll downrigger, and like the line a lot. But a problem with using braided downrigger line on the Cannon Lake-Troll is that when you're transporting the downrigger, the line can come out of the groove in the pulley and get stuck between the side of the pulley and the pulley housing. The only way to fix the problem is to cut the weight off the braided line, pull the line out of the pulley housing, use a wire or a pipe cleaner to pull the line back through the groove in the pulley, and then tie the line back onto the weight. This is a pain in the ass. To prevent the downrigger line from coming out of the groove in the pulley when you're transporting the downrigger, add a hook for the downrigger weight to the housing or base of the downrigger, so you can keep the line under tension and in the groove of the pulley when transporting the downrigger. A hook in that location will also keep your downrigger weight from dragging in the water when you aren't trolling.

2. Like you, I mount my trolling rod holder on a Scotty deck mount. I originally used a standard deck mount (Scotty 241), but found that when I got a strike and snatched my rod out of its holder, I'd sometimes pull the rod holder part of the way out of the base. I've heard of people who pulled their rod holder all of the way out of the base and then lost it overboard; that fortunately never happened to me. I replaced the standard deck mount with a locking deck mount (Scotty 241L), which works great and completely eliminated the problem.

3. With your setup, if you get dumped our of your kayak, you probably won't be able to climb back in on the right side, because there isn't enough room between the rod holder and the pedals. When climbing back in on the left side of your kayak, you may need to shoot your head towards the gap between your rod holder and your pedals, so you can hang your head over the far side of your kayak. I suggest that you practice some re-entries with the downrigger and rod holder in place. Leave your other gear on shore to simplify the practice session. And bungie your downrigger weight to the housing of your downrigger, so the braided line won't come out of the groove in the pulley when you flip your kayak (see Item #1 above).


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