Both excellent ideas for anyone using the old style drum. But alas, even a through-bolt arrangement has its limitations:

With some of the '07 and older drums, a combination of warped drum and crank arm flex could momentarily combine to pull the pedal position pin away from the drum to the point where there was inadequate material to support the load. This was an unfortunate side effect of Turbofins with some of the heavier users -- the more anemic standard fins never allowed those higher pressures to develop so this wasn't a problem previously.
As Reconlon mentioned, users of the newer drives (or upgraded older Drives) no longer have to deal with this issue. The '08 and newer drums were redesigned to minimize warpage and improve crank arm retention. Drum material was changed to a glass-filled nylon for better durability and wear characteristics. IMO, this was a huge improvement in the Drive! Pin length is no longer an issue since the gap between crank arm and drum, and crank arm flex has virtually been eliminated by the drums and redesigned crank arms.
I'm happy to report that it's a whole lot harder to break a new drum than an old one! And for anyone who does rip through a pedal-pin hole in a drum, you can reverse the drums (they're symmetrical) to get a fresh hole -- almost as good as a new drum and works like a charm!
A reminder -- whenever changing pedal position, always make sure the pedal pins are fully inserted -- listen for them to snap in. Even with the new drums, it's possible to rip material off if those pins aren't all the way in!
