Damage to H18 Hulls - is this a problem?

The rough look is from a second-layup vacuum bagging process. We went away from that years ago.

What is the serial number? Where are you located?

The biggest weight differences were from earlier boats to the 1984 "Red Glue Seam" boats when the boats were lightened up.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

SN = CCMC2241L192
I'm in Tucson, AZ.

Yep... 1992 model built in 91.

Bag is off the styrofoam block too. That is odd.

So, this should be as good as they got. Plenty strong at the forward beam, but we can not get a post glue patch at the rear during production. I would advise doing that by access port. Deck to sidewall connecting patch about 12" wide.

Likely sailed with some weight and rough conditions. Wings are brutal leverage on the hulls.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Blowing with shop vacs is a pain, it's noisy, & you have to screw around to get the hose held in the right spot. Blowing sucks,(is that an oxymoron?), you cannot blow while walking around testing the hills.
While ressurecting a Nacra 5.7, I came up with this solution, for all of $2

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=118697

I like this idea. I could calculate the pressure from the volume change. Or, I could add a pressure gauge inline with the pump.
Now, if I just knew for sure what the max pressure is...

The styrofoam block in the other hull looks the same - no bag.
So, 4" access port, 12" (square?) patch, but no shroud anchor plates.
How close can the access port be to the aft cross bar (edge-edge or center-center)?
I haven't sailed with the wings, this makes me think I should just leave them off.

Check it for cracks first and confirm that what you are seeing truly is a structural issue. A little flaking gelcoat (which looks like what you have) is a non-issue. I think you are making a ton more work for yourself than you need and probably fixing something that ain't broke.

For background, I have two 18's, an '85 and a '90. The '85 cracked up under the hull flanges and required a lot of structural reinforcement inside the hulls. Reinforcing the glass at the aft crossbar anchors (which I did, front and rear) is a PITA. There is not much room in there with a 4" access port and the flotation block in the way. My 1990 hulls have similar check marks in the gelcoat at the rear crossbar anchor points as what you showed in your first post, but are structurally fine.

If you're bent on reinforcing it, then add the stainless crossbar anchor kit. It is a bit of a pain to install on the aft inboard locations, but it is a lot easier than trying to get in there to clean, sand, and glass inside the hull.

sm

Yeah, I'll look at it again this weekend.

How strong of a shop vac do you have?

I disagree with edchris177 recommended use of a hand pump. Here are my reasons, 1st by the time you hand pump pressure into the hull and are actually testing the pressure will have likely dropped to nothing. 2nd in a 1992 hull there may be a vent hole under the front crossbar. Use a shop vac for continuous low pressure. Soap test all around the upper and lower deck seam, crossbars, dagger board wells, hatch covers and gudgeons. Also inspect under the rear wing support rod (SX wings only) to hull connection and the trapeze shot cord eyestraps (I had a 18 that when one of the eye straps was installed the installer drilled on through the side wall of the hull).

Depending on what conditions you sail in and how much you and your crew weigh should be considered in making your repair decision IMHO.

I have one more idea for you to think about in regards to how you are connecting the wing legs to the crossbars. In my opinion these should be connected with pins and ring dings (idea being make it a tight connection). I see boats with quick pins and other pins with play used here and I think if there is play then it adds to stresses on the hull connections.

Corkguy
91 H18 SX (with SX wings)
84 H18 redline (magnum wings)
in 2014 I had 7 H18's at one time.

94 H20
2004 18

I checked again, using a flashlight so I could see better, and a drift pin to tap against the damaged area. The fiberglass sounds solid there and I don't see any cracks through it. So, I think I'll monitor it and see if it gets any worse.

I could probably use my shop vac as a leaf blower .

Holy crap!
Whoever put my rear strut brackets on (I have SX wings), used extra long screws to go through the deck, and they lightly dig into the gelcoat on the side of the hull. I"m going to replace those with shorter screws that stop well short of hitting the side of the hull.
I've removed the brackets (and wings) for now.



My wife and I together are about 350 lbs. I'm pushing 200 lbs myself.
I would like to be able to sail occasionally with a large friend. Together, we might be pushing 450 lbs.
I think I might leave the wings off for a while.

I want to say thanks everyone for all the replies. I'm one of the few 18 owners in my area, and I appreciate all the advice.

Interesting read.
My advice would be to leave the wings on, and concentrate on sailing smoooooothly.
Beating upwind while double trapping off the wings in strong chop is what is really hard on the boat.
We don't sail like that anymore.
If the weather is such that the boat might get damaged, we re-think our plans for the day.
Not that we are nervous about sailing hard....we are realistic enough to know that we cannot buy new hulls.

Go out and have fun on one of the best beach cats ever built.
email me off line if you get the urge to upgrade to a spinnaker....

Happy Holidays

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'