Hatch Seal Information

We had a wild ride last weekend - lots of wind. A gust came on during a jibe and threw us over so fast it seemed incredible. It seemed that within 20 seconds we had a pontoon filled 3/4 of the way up with water. Neither hatch is sealed or has a seal, but I didn't think it was that serious. By the time we flipped the boat over, it took us 3 hours to get to a relatively sandy area of the shore, since we were so laden down with water.

The problem is I can't find the right hatch seals. I've also hear it might be good to replace the stock ones with screw in ones. Any suggestions?

Will the awkwardness of moving the tiller around the mainsheet lines ever get less difficult? When the gust caught us last weekend, I was flipping the tiller around, so I wasn't in a position to much other than go in the water.

Thanks

I'd definitely replace the hull ports, especially if you have the old "pop-in" style. It sounds like the ports themselves leak horrendously, but the flange could also be very poorly sealed to the hull. I'd get some 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive and use it to really glue down the port flanges. Then you know they won't leak. I actually plan on doing that with mine in the near future, as I just used the sealant that comes with them last time, and I'm pretty convinced that they leak (albeit very slightly) around the flanges.

I'd also check the boat for leaks elsewhere, the amount of water that flooded the hull makes me think that one of your deck lips/seams may have opened up as well.

The 6" screw in ports are around $45 for a pair from a hobie dealer, and well worth the effort to prevent an incident exactly like yours! Murray's sports also sells replacement o-rings for $2 if yours get dried out & break. It may be worth installing the ports with screws & nuts, rather than rivets. If you use the 5200, the mechanical fasteners are just holding things in place, the sealant is what's adhering and sealing the port to the deck. The only potential downside to 5200 is that it may be a challenge to replace them in the future, if you ever need to.

_________________
Mike

'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238

I used 5200 to glue on some kayak style hinged / latching covers in place of the original pop on covers.

I also think they will give a good fight if I ever need to replace them.

When I removed the rivets, I found that Hobie had made the hull opening too large, and the rivets were half in at best.

You can simply toss the tiller into the water and after changing side and gaining control... grab it again.

Learn to slide your hand to the base of the tiller and then swing it over to the new side as you duck under the boom. It will get easier for sure.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Like Matt said, simply toss the stick away and use the tiller cross bar to gybe.
Based on your description, there may have been other things going on, like was the mainsheet uncleated?
If so, that will capsize you every time in a gust.

Hobie 18's have huge volume in the bows, so a pitchpole would be unusual.

New screw in hatches are essential. You will likely need to 'patch' the deck with fibreglass before you mount the new hatches, no big deal.
Don't use rivets, use S/S screws + nuts + lock washers for a better bond.
Most folks use Marine grade caulking to 'bed' the hatches. 5200 is too strong for my liking.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Thanks, guys. You've given me enough info to take it from here. I didn't mention this, but my wife was on board, and this was one thing she did not want to happen. Not only does she still has her ring on, but she's also ready to go out again. This is addicting - I've wanted to do this for 30 years, and I wish I hadn't waited.

Hi Al, it’s nice to hear you are still married. Sounds like she’s a keeper.

Hatches: Buy new Hobie hatches and make sure they are the ones that can also utilise the orange Cat Bag or orange Fat Bag. The bags come in very handy for drinks, lunch, phones, halyards, etc. As per above, bolt them in, don’t use rivets or screws. I use nice dome head (Allen key heads) with a decent size washer underneath and a nylon nut. I use Sikaflex adhesive sealant. Don’t use Silicone sealant, it’s a nightmare in any marine application.

Gybing: when the boat is half way through the gybe, you should be the one that is passing the mainsheet/boom through the gybe, not the wind. If you pass it through by grabbing the mainsheet system and flipping it from one side to the other, it will a more controlled, less viscous gybe. If you wait for the wind to do it, it becomes an unknown quantity and time and therefore more viscous. Pull it through about 2-3 seconds before you think the wind would do it. It then gives you more control and better timing as to when you pass the tiller around the back. This is generally best done with you kneeling on the trampoline in the centre of the boat and reaching over to flip the mainsheet system (and thus the boom and sail) towards you, past you and to the other side. As you do this you can also inform your crew of the timing. If you wait for the wind to do it, it is all an unknown time and higher risk.

The volume of water you took in sounds like a hole in the boat. It would be unusual to take in that much water via a poorly sealed hatch. Check the bungs are still sealed. Check the dagger board case for any splits or damage. Check under the gunwale lip for any cracks. In fact, get your wife to do it. Sounds like she might enjoy it!

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

typo in my earlier post
If your main was CLEATED, a gust will definitely push you over.

Also, go to YouTube and check out Joyrider TV, or search for Joe Bennett, and watch his video's from Wildwind.
I learn something new every time I watch.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

I used my shop vac hooked up to blow, and held it to the drain plug hole of each hull.

My son used a spray bottle of gas leak detector ( propylene glycol ) to wet down every fitting, gelcoat crack and seam ( the whole length of the deck lips, for example ).

This method found even very tiny leaks. He marked them with a sharpie as he went along.

I found the biggest leaks where there are holes through the lip: At the shroud anchor pins and the rope holes for the dagger board cord.

We ground them out with a Dremel and filled them with 3M high strength vinylester filler. So far, so good! Hulls were moist, but no puddles inside after 4 hours in the water. We even had the bows under briefly once or twice.

Good luck!

Thanks for the clarification, John Lunn. That makes more sense, and yes, I most definitely was cleated.

Tedcool, great idea. I'll try doing this over the weekend.

I think this cat sat around for years and years in the yard - the previous owners said they never took it out, and the registration decal on the boat said 2002. I'm looking forward to getting all the little remaining things taken care of. The boat is in pretty good shape, just a few things here and there plus oxidation on the hulls.

Thanks for everything.