H18 Rudder Spring

Hi All,

I have an older H18 with the original rudder castings. I cannot seem to find the part number for the larger shorter spring? The H16 spring doesnt work and the newer spring doesnt seem to work either. Any advice on a replacement or substitute?

Thanks,

Codie

That spring was discontinued in the mid 80's. No longer available. Why are you needing to replace it?

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thats too bad. Is there any known substitute that will work? I dont need to replace it I am missing one. The skinny springs get jammed.

I’d recommend you take out the one you have and measure it - outside diameter, overall length, wire diameter, number of coils. Then go to mcmaster.com (McMaster Carr industrial supplier) and do a search for compression springs. They may have something similar that would work and that you can buy in relatively small quantities.

sm

Thanks srm I will do that.

I've sailed without those springs for the last few years. I use the "kickback" system sold by Murrays to keep the rudders in tight. Not only does it keep the rudder "locked" down and in place, it also eliminates a good deal of rudder slop, as the metal cam always allowed about a half inch of travel at the tip of the rudder. This results in both excess weather helm and a lot of slop in steerage.

The spring provided almost too much tension, and even after tuning the system, the rudders would never release unless the springs were under minimal pressure. I backed it off to the point that the screw and spring eventually both fell out. With the kickback system, and I never even noticed it was missing.

_________________
Mike

'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238

Sabres has a good point....the old style rudder system had some definite quirks (i.e., it doesn’t work very well). If you over-tension the adjuster in the casting, the rudders won’t kick up and you’ll either break the casting, rudder pin, rudder, or transom if you hit bottom. My current boat has the new system, but I sailed an 18 with the old system for a couple decades. We always ran the springs at almost zero tension and instead used bungee cords around the rudders with the kickback “washers” on the lower rudder casting bolt to provide the majority of the rudder hold-down force. Murrays sells them as the Kisme Kleet.

All that said, I think you may still want the spring installed in the lower casting to help keep the upper casting latched down. I would think without the spring the tiller arm may want to lift accidentally which would be annoying at the least. A bungee cord may be able to be used as a substitute.

I also just checked my garage and have two of the old castings (with springs) I’d be willing to part with at a reasonable cost. PM me if interested (you would have to take the whole casting though, not just the spring).

sm

I found the cam profile was in need of modification to attain the desired release force. I took a file to the aluminum cam and corrected the issue. I still run fairly light spring tension and keep things clean and dry lubed, but the release seems to be more consistent.