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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:19 am 
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Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
Hi, does anyone sell a kit to make the corner casting to rail connections tighter?

I know I can use the thickened epoxy method but dont want to make a permanent joint even if I can take it out with a blow torch later..

Any shim kit?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:33 am 
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Location: Abq, NM
ALEXSAILS wrote:
Hi, does anyone sell a kit to make the corner casting to rail connections tighter?

I know I can use the thickened epoxy method but dont want to make a permanent joint even if I can take it out with a blow torch later..

Any shim kit?

Thanks!


Have you tried shimsbybudwiser.com :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 12:11 pm 
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Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
Come on dude! tin can material will corrode in days if not weeks....
Any other ideas?

Or should I just buy sheet aluminum bend them into shape and ram them between casting and rails....then rivet again...?

Any ideas on what gage to use?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 12:29 pm 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
Actually, the aluminum can material works very well. The best part is you probably already have some laying around. Just think about all the nasty and corrosive stuff packaged in alumunim cans. The main concern with corrosion on your boat is the galvanic reaction. It tends to not happen between the same materials.

As for a thickness to reccommed... not really. It depends on the size of the csting and the size of the extrusion. Since the shim material is so cheap and readily available, just kepe adding layers until you are happy.

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Current Boat
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'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 12:39 pm 
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Location: Abq, NM
ALEXSAILS wrote:
Come on dude! tin can material will corrode in days if not weeks....
Any other ideas?

Or should I just buy sheet aluminum bend them into shape and ram them between casting and rails....then rivet again...?

Any ideas on what gage to use?


Come on Dude!!!!!! Everybody knows that Bud comes in Aluminum Cans! Personally, I prefer bottles and micro brews.

Like Nick Says, AL cans are thin enough that you can just add layers until it is tight.

Sam


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:09 pm 
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DUDE! How good a job can one do by stacking multiple layers of super thin can material in there....? That seems to me like a bad home remedy not a fix....
I prefer having 2 layers of sheet alum than 10 of can alum!

Ill do my best and post results

thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:48 pm 
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ALEXSAILS wrote:
DUDE! How good a job can one do by stacking multiple layers of super thin can material in there....? That seems to me like a bad home remedy not a fix....
I prefer having 2 layers of sheet alum than 10 of can alum!

Ill do my best and post results

thanks!


My thoughs are if you have to put 10 layers of any material in there you need a new casting.

Please do let us know.

Sam


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:09 pm 
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Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
Sam, thanks for the imput I hope I dont have to stuff that much either in there, that would mean that they are extremely worn, which they arent..

Maybe I can get away with a layer of alum sheet thin guage....

Hopefully will let u know by the end of the week how it turned out!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:13 pm 
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Great, because I am about to put my second boat back together and would like to make it as tight as possible of course.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:24 pm 
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Is it new? If not what month/year hull etc?
Mine is from nov 1987!
When I was 7 years old!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 3:26 pm 
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Location: Abq, NM
I have gotten 2 boats
1st was bought in Nov 2005 it's title says its a 71 (I was 9 than) the casting marks say 74 and the sail was first released in 73 (according to one fairly reliable source which I will see if I can find.)

I joined the local fleet 48 in december met a few of the members and was given the second set of hulls dated 78 which included the rails, rudders and rudder system no tiller, and the bridle wires. I am about to refinish the second set of hulls and have located a mast and sails so hopefully it will be done by the end of the season at which time I will start on the 1st boat.

Sam


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:10 pm 
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Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
I am about to join the local fleet here in PR this week. The next regatta is on 26-27 august. Im on a tight deadline to finish repairs and get on the water before that date for a trial...
Still have to:
fix sails at friend's sailloft.
make tramp at another friend's house that works on canvas and has the mesh material.
fix front starboard pylon.
new lines, cheeck blocks and main cam cleat.
fix chipped gelcoat edge, polish and new decals...
shim frame tight

Ill be busy spending money on new stuff the next couple of weeks.

DAMN!

I still dont have a crew!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 5:33 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
If you're going through the trouble of busting the frame apart, seriously consider epoxy. It may keep the frame relatively stiff for a couple of years.

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Fleet 297


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 Post subject: great shim material
PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:11 pm 
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Check out any local place that makes trophys and plaques. They use strips of thin brass plates to print the award names on and they always have leftover pieces they can't use and are probably just going to throw out. You can also buy thin brass sheet material from a hobby shop.
Always worked for me, and it was a little more workable than bud-shims.

Yes, as I have always said - if there is a cheap way to do something, and it works - go for it.

Happy sails

Stephen

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:53 pm 
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Well today I tried to get a sheet of pepsi can material just to guage the gap but there is no way to insert it. From what I noticed my castings are a tight fit and dont seem to be as worn as I thought...The flexing may be cause I have taken the tramp off. My guess is that the stretched tramp will give the frame all the stiffness it needs....

Ill just replace all rivets with new ones as I have noticed some are loose and lace the tramp back on...maybe seal the castings joints with some black 5200.


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