Rudder pintles

Anyone have expereince replacing hobie rudder pintles? Our bottom pintles on the Port side sheered off this weekend. I'm just curious how easy these are to replace. Are the castings drilled into a metal fitting or just the rodomolded hull? What type of sealent is recommended to ensure the replacement is water proof? How easy are these to cross thread?

Should we look for stress or replace other compenents?

I'm guessing since one sheered off, then the others ought to be replaced for good measure.

Here a pics below.

The hobie Getaway is a great boat, glad to see just the pindle failed and there is no other damage here. Many more miles and adventures are in store for this boat!!


Port side:





Starboard side:

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ClamCounter
Hobie Getaway 2012 “Miss Marie”
300 Mile Everglades Challenge '12, '13, '14, '15, '16, '17, ‘18, ‘19, ‘20

Did you hit something in the parking lot? That upper one is pretty bent. Can you wiggle what's left by hand-if not, then you shouldn't have to worry. Here are the part numbers
EZ LOC RuDDER PINTLES UPPER PINTLE 90880211 LOWER PINTLE 90880221

The drawing doesn't show the inside of the float, so I don't know how the nuts are bedded.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Beleive it or not the bottom pindle just sheared off on its own while underway. The the top pintle bent once the bottom one sheared and the rudder turned sideways while under sail.

Both pintle castings are still very snug and intact, just the pins failed. I'm pretty happy how Hobie engineered these things -- it looks like an easy replacement so long as we dont cross thread and there is no leaking afterwards.

Looking at the image of the broken pintle, the center shows rust discoloration almost all the way to the core. To me this seems odd that the core would show rust (the photo was taken 30 'mins after shearing.) So the rust certainly wasnt from direct exposure. Maybe it was just a bad mold. Either way these pintles have held up to alot of great use. We anticipated some area of the rudder system could be nearing replacement. We'll se how easy these puppies are to remove and replace in a water tight fashion.

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ClamCounter
Hobie Getaway 2012 “Miss Marie”
300 Mile Everglades Challenge '12, '13, '14, '15, '16, '17, ‘18, ‘19, ‘20

Probably crevice corrosion that's been going on a while. Stressed stainless is susceptible. Location of the pintles makes it hard to detect as well as to flush if you keep the rudders installed. Maybe I better go look at mine.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Matt - Would you happen to have a part number for the bolts that secure the rudder pintles?

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ClamCounter
Hobie Getaway 2012 “Miss Marie”
300 Mile Everglades Challenge '12, '13, '14, '15, '16, '17, ‘18, ‘19, ‘20

The ones you have look good, why get new? You could also probably get them at ACE for about the same money (one thing I like about Hobie is that their parts aren't outrageously expensive). In any case you can find all the part #s in the Hobie Parts Catalog which is available for download...handy photos and diagrams. Here are the part numbers--
SCREW 8030171 SCREW (2009+) 8030331---apparently there was a part number change in 2009.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Can you look in an inspection hatch to see if they're bolted into/through a plate? That would answer part of your question.
I know the T2 has its pintles bolded through a say 8" by 1.5" steel backing plate - maybe Getaway is similar?

> Should we look for stress or replace other compenents?

You should consider replacing your chainplates, or at least take them off and inspect them. They aren't expensive and it would be much worse than breaking a rudder pintle. Mine rusted/corroded. Fortunately I discovered it and replaced them before they failed.

Also, my yoke broke (the part that connects the swivel to the top of the forestay). My boat is a 2002. Sometime after 2002 hobie changed this assembly with a more heavy duty yoke.

I have had Getaway pintles fail a couple of times. They get corroded in some way and they fail and end up bending the pintle that does not fail. I consider them wearable parts and always keep spares (especially because I live in Peru and it is not so easy to get the spares). I often inspect them and I have changed them if I see a deep crack.
I can see in your picture that it was a long time crack that was growing because you can see the stain inside a good part of the sheared face (it is not all a recent break, just a tiny bit at the center was holding everything)
Just order them from your local dealer or murrays.com (I found out murray's price is a lot better than my local dealer).
Replacing them is extremely easy. Just get a large screwdriver (if you don't have one the right size consider buying one so you don't strip the bolt), remove the bolts and then put the new part. I use silicone sealant but I don't know if it is necessary, and also use threadlock just in case. There are metal (I think brass) inserts with threads inside the plastic so you are not damaging the plastic.

Wow thanks for all the responses here. This is real helpful info. Good to know what I'm working with on the other side of these bolts. Glad to hear there are brass inserts. I'll be replacing all four pintles for good measure this weekend.

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ClamCounter
Hobie Getaway 2012 “Miss Marie”
300 Mile Everglades Challenge '12, '13, '14, '15, '16, '17, ‘18, ‘19, ‘20

Speaking of this....... my boat had the same issue this past weekend. And I replaced the pintles not so long ago. The pintle break looks exactly like the posted picture. Lots of old rust and a small part that was holding everything.
So it was an old crack that had been growing.
This is the third time it happens to me.
I wonder if Hobie is trying to fix that issue with those parts...

Matt?

We were able to remove and replace the pintles very easily. Yes I can now confirm there are brass like inserts in the hulls where the bolts are screwed in that make it very easy to replace. The rudders slide on very snug for now. I found that not only cocking the rudder half way angled up, but also turning the rudder to the side allows them to slide off easily when derigging the boat. The rudders work flawlessly under sail. Lookimg forward to putting another 1000 plus miles / 6 yrs on these bad boys.

Here's an image of the brass inserts...

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ClamCounter
Hobie Getaway 2012 “Miss Marie”
300 Mile Everglades Challenge '12, '13, '14, '15, '16, '17, ‘18, ‘19, ‘20

I was sailing today and had this exact same issue. The bottom pintle sheared off and the rudder twisted the top pintle. Unfortunately, the conditions were rough and one of the inserts pulled part way out.

Any suggestions for fixing this? Does anyone have a diagram showing how deep the inserts are and how they attach? Is there any way to get this back in? Or are they long enough that I could cut off the protruding part? I would rather not cut a hole in my boat and add an access port if there is another solution.

Thanks for any advice!
David