I know absolutely nothing, nada. Found 98 wave 4sale. Buy?

Try and do all the work your self as it will save you some coin and you will learn a lot.

The port holes are not stock and you should try and find some that will fit the current hole. You will find that your passengers will be sitting there in high winds.

The boat had a jib sail at one time. The spreader bar is on the front and the mounts for the jib cleats are present. You can remove the mounts if you will buying a jib. No harm in leaving the spreader bar in place.

The sail looks decent. A bic lighter will take care of the frayed edged and sail tape will fix the rips. The missing stitches should be re-stitched and it's not a lot so you may be able to do this by hand.

Scrub the tramp and maybe put a little bleach in the water.

The main sheet rope is a joke and needs to go. If the halyard does not have any core damage I would use it.

I used PVC pipe for my tramp pipes; it was a tight fit and inexpensive. Looking at your pictures it appears that you already have PVC pipe, the stock inserts are very thin (on my boat).

Clean and lube the rudder assy and see how it functions before you spend any $$. Mine was rough and full of sand, but a cleaning and some lube did wonders.

The tiller joints are shot and need to be addressed.

I am not sure what the turn buckle on the underside if for. Perhaps to pull the hulls together?

MY bottom line would be to do all the work yourself and go and beat the heck out of it!

You'll figure it out, but the cams get old, dry rotted and break. The pin that holds them in was what I was talking about in the previous note. If they work now, then keep your cams for later cuz they will eventually break down. I use vaseline to lube them. It lasts longer than other lubes and unless your in a sandstorm it really doesn't gather much grit.

Gordo, I added the traveler track to my boat and I think it's great. Sure, it adds complication, but I can feel a speed increase in the boat on a beam reach when I travel out vs sheeting in the center of the boat. What is you opposition to it besides simplicity?

didn't see the previous post. Excellent! Right on target. Really is a lot of fun fixing up a boat yourself for cheap. Very satisfying.

Oh! tradisrad, your post showed up while I was writing above. While simplicity is part of it, it goes more to the racing angle. While not class legal, I've never objected to travelers (or jibs for that matter) when they show up at a race. It is just another benefit when a racer is spending even just a little more time with their head in the boat, rather than on the game. You are absolutely right about the increased reaching benefit. However, the wind is so powerful off the beach at Lake Mead where I play that only about a third of the sail is powered up anyway and the speeds are breathtaking on glassy off-shore beach reaching in 20 knots or more. Definitely going to get a ranger to throw his radar on it this summer. The boat is an extreme sailor's dream in up to 35 knots flat water, 30 in swells. Most recent best day out here was 2 weeks ago in a 30k norte w/3' average wind swells. The upwind was tough and could not tack normally (first experience ever) and had to back up maybe a meter or two to get it over to weather each time. However, downwind was altogether another experience. Usually surfing the swells in lesser, but strong, breezes, in the 30k range, well the boat stayed steady (even though it scared the crap out of me at first) and skipped steadily over the wave crests without any hobby horsing. The wave sets were high and close, perhaps 10-12' apart. The roto beast was going so much faster than the wave sets. Have no idea how much but mind boggling. I thought on the jibe that surely would pitch, but the sail went over with a sharp 'whap!' and the boat never broke stride. The rush was epic. Got totally soaked by the spray. Honestly, no fiction here. Still shocked that the old 3/36 shrouds did not break. Cheers

Oh, tradis, one more thing. I think that the reaching benefits of the traveler would definitely pay off on a reaching leg in a sanctioned race. In fact, the racing organization is leaning heavily towards reaching legs for Wave racing. However, while I definitely wouldn't protest it(even if it cost me placing), some other 'rule geek' definitely would. They're always looking for a way to climb up the standings.

Thank you!
So, can the sail main sheet rope be replaced by itself? Is it sewn in or must be cut out and new sewn in? Sorry, the boat is stored at the lake 1.2 hours away and haven't looked since I took the pictures. I "assume" I need to take it to a sail repair shop.

I do think the tiller handle joints need to be replaced. There is no pivot on either side so can't see how it would flex to steer as you move the tiller from side to side. Did earlier models not have joints?

Fix/Repair/Purchase list:
- Ruder Cams: 10480000. Two. Plastic=$10 each
- Clean/Lube rudder assembly
- (3) 7-hole stay adjusters 20830010 at $7 each , (5) Clevis pins 8020381, (5) Ring Dings 20860000
- (8) tramp tubes since they look old and crusty. PVC pipe
- Main Sail rope
- Tiller handle joints
- Patch sail
- Scrub tramp
- Remove/replace inspection ports on pontoons.

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2013 Hobie Tandem Island w/spinnaker

My '95 came with flexible rubber quarter circle connections. No joints. I replaced with H20 joints.

I'm assuming you're referring to the luff rope which is sown in the sail for raising up the mast, as they do wear. Look up Point Sails in Cali to get a repair done for a reasonable price. Chip Buck does excellent work on repairs. A canvas shop may be able to repair, but might mess up the sail's function and performance.

I suggested replacing the main sheet. This is the rope that controls the sail. It attaches to the rear cross bar and the clew on the sail via the blocks.

Off topic heads up here. Hobie Wave racing is heating up in the desert SW. see hobiedivision2.com for schedule.

Ops. Didn't know the lingo I guess. Thanks.

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2013 Hobie Tandem Island w/spinnaker

Ok, so no joints in the tiller. I thought they were plastic and not flexible rubber. I'll give the wave a try before replacement of the tiller parts.

I'll check out the wave racing later tonight thanks for the info.

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2013 Hobie Tandem Island w/spinnaker

Made it to the lake today to clean things up.
Here is my photo album: http://s172.photobucket.com/user/serpa44/media/Clean%20Boat/20150220_125443_zps097f427e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=19

I don't get how the bridal fits the mast forestay/Bridle adjustment area. I put in a pulley system there that looked right, but I don't think it is.



The mast looks like it is leaning back. There is no adjustment for the shroud cables. I think I do need the 7 hole stay adjusters.

Sheathing is missing off the shroud cables.

The cams look beat.

There is a square metal plate and bolt missing one one rudder assembly. I don't know what it is called, perhaps a cam plate?


I don't understand how to attach the mainsheet to the rear cross bar. it doesn't look right.


Any ideas on what the purpose of the pink rope and the white bungee chord that go around the entire tramp from corner to corner?

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2013 Hobie Tandem Island w/spinnaker

The rope and bungee around the tramp are probably righting lines.
Replace the shrouds. Replace the shrouds. Replace the shrouds.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks

Yes, replace the shrouds. The climbing carabiner does not belong on the boat.

OK,

First, nice purchase, but the boat needs a few parts to make your sailing easy, safe, and fun.

Buy a rigging manual, note old style rudder castings.

The downhaul line is usually tied to the sail, turned around the cleat, back to the sail, and then cleated making a three to one purchase. The main sheet line is serviceable, but three strand nylon is not right. Use an braided Dacron line. It is easier on your hands. Also, use a shorter pin to attach the mainsheet.

The sail is old but serviceable. If you can find a canvas shop that makes awnings (closer and easier to find than a sail maker), have the worn thread areas stitched. I am making the assumption that the cloth is not destroyed by the sun. Sail this sail until it really goes away. After you clean up the tramp, take it to the same awning shop and have the hiking straps replaced. You have back rest, but the hiking straps are nice to keep you from sliding around. I am also assuming the tramp is serviceable.

The entire wire set must be replaced. The wire on the boat is the wrong type on the bridles and forestay and look to be home made. The plastic coming off of the shrouds show age. The boat will rig easier and be safer. Add 7 hole adjusters on the shrouds and a ten hole on the forestay.

After you step the mast, take the pin out and let the mast rotate freely.

Buy Hobie 20 tiller connectors. It makes life easy.

Buy two rudder cams and a set of sister screws. Drill only the lip of the current pins and drive them out. Then replace the cams and use the sister screws in place of the press fitted pin on each cam.

The inspection ports and the hardware on the side are after thoughts. Replace the hatches with a larger hatch without the wood. I guess the wood was to make the area flat for the hatch. Shim it if you find that required, or just bed the hatch ring in 3M 5200, let it cure and you should be fine. If you can remove the additional hardware on the side of the hull and seal it, do so. It looks like a place to get hurt. Maybe make a small plate in the inside of the hull and glue it in with 3m 5200 again. This may have to be bolted into place to make it strong enough to sealed from normal use and abuse.