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 Post subject: Anchor: Whos Uses One ?
PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 09, 2015 8:53 am
Posts: 717
Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
I am thinking that one approach to my beaching issues might be an anchor: just anchor the AI 20' off the beach.

Not that appealing to me in the context of the extra rigging time (I would assume it needs tb stored on the rear cargo area - so it has to be placed/removed each time off/on the trailer).

However, if it does turn out tb a workable idea; these non-metallic anchors appeal to me: http://cooperanchors.com/technical-info/

Seems to have minimal hard/sharp edges... seems hand/body/hull-friendly....

Comments ?

And if you do use one of the Cooper products, which one works for you ? Small ? Medium ? Large ?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:40 am
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Location: Blacklick, Ohio
I don't have a Cooper, just a no name brand PWC grapnel anchor that stores in a bag with the line. I've only used it a couple of times. It held fast, but I need to work out some sort of bridal configuration in order to keep the boat straight and be able to pull up the anchor easily.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
The blue Cooper anchor will fit through the round hatch (with a bit of fiddling), so you can get it ready easily before it is needed.

Here is what I have done to make anchoring a painless process. I leave 30 feet of line attached to the front crossbar, leading to the bow, and then back to me. I can then easily attach any combination of extra line, 6 feet of chain and anchor, to my end.
Image
To launch the anchor, I drop it into the water in front of the forward aka, and the anchor line streams from the bow, keeping the TI aligned ..

To retrieve, I haul in the retrieve line, which brings the anchor line back from the bow

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2015 5:44 pm 
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Location: Paoli Pennsylvania - East Coast USA
tonystott wrote:
Here is what I have done to make anchoring a painless process. I leave 30 feet of line attached to the front crossbar, leading to the bow, and then back to me. I can then easily attach any combination....

Thanks for taking the time to draw that up.

You keep it under the hatch that is just in front of the seat, right?

I am thinking that if I can work out a way to keep it from banging around in the hull when I load it on/off the trailer that it could just live in there permanently and not have to be replaced/removed every time I rig/de-rig the boat.

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2015 AI in "Dune" - "The Grey Pig"
2017 Trailex 450 Trailer
Pre-September 2015 cradles
(anybody want to buy a slightly-used AI SpinKit?)
eMail: [email protected]


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 12:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:51 am
Posts: 229
Location: Hervey Bay Qld Australia ( formally UK)
I use an anchor trolley system combined with a ratcheted divers reel and zigzag cleat super easy just about everyone i know uses this system.100m of paracord and 4m of chain cheap folding or reef anchor either or

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 9:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:18 am
Posts: 3062
Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
As scuba divers diving mostly in the keys we found it really necessary to have a really good anchor system. We used to try to use dual grappling anchors and more than once our boat drifted away from us and we had to chase it down.

When diving and snorkeling we often raise and lower the anchor sometimes a half dozen times during the day. Storing the anchor inside any enclosed hatches out in open ocean is pretty impossible (you can't really open any hatches while out there), just sayin.

The automatic anchor system we came up with is really handy for us, and is a tremendous space saver with the anchor suspended over the stern of the boat it is completely out of the way, and more importantly we are not scratching and dinging the plastic boat everytime we touch it.

Here is a pic of the anchor system:
Image
In reality the design is as simple as it gets, it's just a 1/8 x 2 x 10" piece of aluminum bent over the rear hull area (just bent by hand to fit), then held down by four small loops of 700 lbs test spectra string, there is a piece of rubber shelf liner underneath to prevent it from scratching the boat. The 3 ft long 3/4 sq aluminum I picked up at home depot.
The anchor is never removed from the boat, it just hangs behind the boat suspended when trailering or stored in the garage, up to 150ft of 3/8" anchor line coils up on the paper towel holder like reel system added to the pvc motor mount (took all of 15 minutes to make, and really manages the anchor line nicely), I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but if you pay out 150 ft of anchor line on the deck it completely fills up the rear passenger compartment and it tangles up into literally everything (when I do that I feel like captain Ahab on Mobie dick all tangled up in lines).

When using the anchor I just tie the anchor to the rear AKA with a slip knot, and can deploy and retrieve the anchor from the front seat very easily (usually piling the excess anchor line on one of the tramps until we position to our next stop.

I'm sure a cooper anchor would work just as well as our guardian G7 anchor (in the keys we need sand type anchors). Notice I have no big ole chain rode on my anchor, we have used it many times and found we don't need a chain at all (but we do have to have the anchor at a little shallower angle (I forget what that's called). As divers the first thing we always do is dive down following the anchor line, then check the anchor set on the bottom, it always seems to set nicely. Then when we come back up we do our safety decompression stops hanging onto the anchor line (normally what everyone does), if you don't hang on to something the current can carry you away while decompressing. When diving on protected reefs (no anchors allowed) we hook up to the mooring balls, and have what we call a dangle line (25 ft or so long) trailing behind the boat to catch stragglers, and sometimes a weighted decompression line to hang onto (our dive computers tell us what to do and how long, we have to hold and stay still (which can be really difficult in current).
None of this crap likely applies to anyone else, I'm just posting because we found the anchor system to be the most trouble/hassle free system we have used (and we have tried many different systems).
And yes we use the system to anchor just offshore in surf and at sand bars. We also sometimes drop the anchor just outside the surf zone, and reel ourselves in and back out thru the surf. The down side to that though is if your done for the day somebody has to swim back out and retrieve the stupid anchor.
Hope this helps
FE


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2011 1:58 am
Posts: 2893
Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
PeteCress wrote:
tonystott wrote:
Here is what I have done to make anchoring a painless process. I leave 30 feet of line attached to the front crossbar, leading to the bow, and then back to me. I can then easily attach any combination....

Thanks for taking the time to draw that up.

You keep it under the hatch that is just in front of the seat, right?

I am thinking that if I can work out a way to keep it from banging around in the hull when I load it on/off the trailer that it could just live in there permanently and not have to be replaced/removed every time I rig/de-rig the boat.

Actually, I store all the ground tackle (anchor, chain, sea anchor, shackles, extra line) in a dry bag, plus another dry bag containingl my safety gear (first aid kit, loud horn, torch, masthead light, toolkit, knife, compass, etc) attached to the crossbar behind me

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2015 10:26 am
Posts: 11
Location: USA
With our TI we are using an 11 lb Lewmar Claw anchor with rode consisting of 6' of galvanized chain then 100' of 1/2" Samson MFP floatline (it's bright yellow for nice visibility). You might not need the chain but on our current long distance trip we never know what might be lurking beneath ready to chafe the anchor line, so having the chain leader connected to the anchor makes me feel better. We also have a bridle made from 30' of the 1/2" Samson floatline giving about 15' of length. One side of the bridle is attached to a Marelon cleat, that I installed on the port side gunnel near the front seat using stainless bolts and a backing block, and the other side is tied to the starboard side of the front crossbar. The bridle can be tied elsewhere (different angles) as needed to adjust how the boat is riding in the waves. The bridle and anchor rode double as docklines for us when we have to tie-up at a dock and also as a towing setup if we were to need to tow someone or to be towed.

Depending on your expected boating conditions this might be overkill but we wanted something we wouldn't have to worry about. So far it's working well, as we were anchored yesterday in about 3-4 feet of water and the local buoys reported sustained winds at 25 knots with gusts well over 30 knots. Eventually we ended up beaching the boat because the waves began breaking in the area where we were anchored but the anchor never budged.

We are storing the anchor and it's rode in a heavy duty mesh bag tied down to the trampoline. Not as fancy as FE's setup but it works. Also, I would never store it in a hatch, just too much chance of water entering the boat while you are trying to get it out.

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