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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:34 am 
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Slaughter wrote:
Like this Matt


Exactly, but using the cradle we already make for trailers. Still testing. Should be able to make them slip over any scupper cart.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 11:54 am 
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fusioneng wrote:
I took the boat to the dealer (Economy Tackle in Sarasota FL) and a new replacement hull was shipped from CA the same day.


fusioneng is lucky to be in the US where hull problems seem to be solved quickly. Unfortunately I am in Europe where Hobie does not seem to provide the same level of service. My TI left the factory with leak in the hull. I complained last August (i.e. 8 months ago) but so far no repair has been offered only some talk about some mysterious tool that will arrive from the US and solve the problem. Replacing the hull is out of question with Hobie Europe. At the moment there is ice on the water but I hope and pray my TI will be usable before the ice breaks up*.
The Swedish dealer does her best to chase Hobie Europe. May e-mails to Hobie Europe has so far not been answered.

For the leak se my earlier topic viewtopic.php?f=75&t=30171

*) extremely late this year

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:24 pm 
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Your issue is very different in that a leak inside the screw-in fitting area is easily repairable / patch-able. What I understand is that we promised a tap tool to re-cut the fitting's threads after a weld repair is done. Those taps only just arrived in the past two weeks and one was shipped to Hobie Kayak Europe.

If the weather gets good and the repair is not yet completed, I suggest filling with a sealant, reinstall the fitting and go sailing.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:40 pm 
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Agreed Gringo. I am thinking the rear Hobie trailer support profile without the aka bits at its ends would be the perfect size and shape for a TI cart. They would distribute the load over more surface area...Pirate

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:02 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
Your issue is very different in that a leak inside the screw-in fitting area is easily repairable / patch-able...


I am not so certain that it is easily repaired. There is a large amount of material needed to build up (down) the "cup" that is not deep enough and has no bottom and no treads.
I cannot see that the job can be done with a soldering iron. In your factory somebody tried to repair it with the help of a soldering iron which did not work at all. It looked like the lattice on an open pie.

A proper repair manual is required. What tools and material shall be used? Forget about the soldering iron.

It is also important that the cord has a god connection as it is holding the hatch down. I cannot see how a lump of sealant can hold it down.

PS Received a mail from Holland today saying they are sending the tool on Monday.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:16 pm 
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Don't worry Boka. If Hobie can't fix it adequately then you would be in the hot seat for a replacement hull which is what I would be pushing for in your circumstances. Hobie have proven themselves in relation to warranty issues though Hobie Europe seem like a completely different Company from the way they have responded to you. Good thing all this time has occurred through your northern winter when you prefer to be indoors. Good luck...Pirate

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:55 pm 
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There aren't really threads in this. It is "tapped", but the depth is marginal. The tap is to replace threads when the soldering is done. It's more than a soldering iron. More like a wire feed welder.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:10 pm 
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I still have not got any :o

I had a simular issue with my TI, it seemed that my pressure was not on the downdard side but more to do with the forward motion (the wheels are pulled back as the TI is pulled forward- you can have a look at my thread).

I rang my dealer and went down to show him; I was lucky that he had a red TI hull, which he swaped over then and there :D

My only problem is the new hull has never seen the water.

NOT HAPPY JAN!!! :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:20 am 
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mmiller wrote:
There aren't really threads in this. It is "tapped", but the depth is marginal. The tap is to replace threads when the soldering is done. It's more than a soldering iron. More like a wire feed welder.

I thought that I had explained the problem already in August but I will try again.
In order to make it more clear i include a sketch. The wire feed welder is useless for this type of repair as there is not sufficient space around the cup under the deck. Furthermore there is a lot of material to be replaced and kept in place while warm. I have tried with the wire welder which by the way has live electricity connected to the outer metal parts. I am happy I have a strong heart. That the job cannot be done that easy is evidenced by the result provided by the boatbuilder in Hobie's factory in California. The cup bottom looked like a lattice (pls see picture below) and the cord was welded into the "repair". The lattice was actually only connected to the cup in one single place the other "ends" were lose. I wonder way the hull left the factory with such a botch up job.
I thought that the promised tool (set) should include same mould to fit under the cup and adequate casting material plus the thread tap.
Will Hobie seriously consider repairing my hull? That is my question.
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:52 am 
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Will Hobie seriously consider repairing my hull? That is my question.


This is up to Hobie Kayak Europe. They handle all claims in their part of the World.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 2:36 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
Quote:
Will Hobie seriously consider repairing my hull? That is my question.


This is up to Hobie Kayak Europe. They handle all claims in their part of the World.


OK, I will pester Hobie Kayak Europe. However, there has not been much progress from that side during the last eight months. Still I think buyers in the US are lucky to receive good after sales service.

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Bo Karlberg
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Sail Tandem Island No P1787 in the Stockholm Archipelago (some 40,000 islands and rocks)


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