I think the trick on PVC cradles is the height of the PVC in relation to the cross support bars. Ideally you want the hull to rest in the grooves on 11” centers running the length of the boat. However if the 3-5 cross bars, ( that support the PVC) have too wide of a gap to the lowest points on the hull, (the rounded lowest points on the hull) this can cause problems. With the boat on the trailer, (before strapping down, or settling). Ideally you want around a half inch or so gap between the lowest points on the hull and the trailer cross bars. Eventually, (especially in warm climates) the lowest points on the hull settle onto those cross bars, (you need several for an even load distribution). No damage occurs to the hull, (like flat spots, because there is not enough pressure). As Matt has noted, if the PVC rails are too tall, there is a risk of caving in the center of the hull, and/or pushing up all the scupper posts thru the top of the hull. To support the AMA’s , ( which rest on the cross bars), we just took some foam insulation and taped it down on the cross bars or the outer trailer frame, so the AMA’s rest on little soft pads in a few places. We just taped the foam down with 3m black electrical tape, (amazingly durable stuff).
If you extend the back ends of the PVC tubes past the back of the trailer, they work amazingly well at guiding the boat onto the trailer in cross winds, (you have to experience the problem to understand it,,,, you will). At the far back of our trailer, ( between the pvc rails) adding a roller in the center makes loading the boat onto the trailer much easier. We also added a cheap harbor freight winch to our trailer, (like $25 bucks). When we want to load the boat we of course back the trailer up to the waters edge, (but we never dunk our tires). We then unwind the winch so the hook is a foot or so from the back of the trailer. I always load on the trailer with the ama’s out and typicallycall the sails and masts up, ( but all furled), and the motors tilted up. I then guide the boat to the back of the trailer, ( the boat is in the water), the boat doesn’t have to be perfectly straight. I then lift the bow up onto the roller and pull the boat forward a foot or so, (so it doesn’t fall), then I clip the winch hook to the bow, once clipped the boat can’t fall back off. Even if the wind pushes the back of the boat to one side or the other, don’t worry about it, ( the pvc rails will straighten the boat as your winching) I then walk up to the winch and crank the boat up onto the trailer, truth be known, I often just use my battery powered electric drill to crank the boat up. I have a really bad back and know I would never be able to drag my boat up onto cradles, (I’ve done it plenty times helping othercwith cradles). Typically I’m only lifting the bow only, ( with the lift handle) about 6” to get into the roller at the back of the trailer, then pull forward a foot or so, ( the boat is floating, and rolls easily on the roller, (actually very easy) Once cranked up on the trailer, with ama’s out and sails up I pull away from the ramp or beach up to level ground, and put the boat away some place out of the way of the active ramp or beach. Yea if it’s windy I might put one strap on to keep the boat from tipping, before pulling away from the water. Launching is way easier, I typically set the whole boat up in the parking lot, put the AMA’s out, tramps on, put all the sails up, and start the motors, (to make sure they work), then tilt them up, (basically ready to go). I usually put 1 strap on to keep the boat on the trailer. I then back up to the water, (much easier with the boat rigged because you can see everything, (I can’t see the boat back there with everythig down). Once at waters edge I take the strap off, then take the clip off the winch, then a little shove. The boat flies off the trailer, ( gravity). Actually it’s a good idea to gave a bow line in your hand, (yep ours has floated away and we had to go catch it). Obviously if your launching at a beach into two inches of water, it’s a little more work, ( the two inch deep water describes our normal launching beach at low tide). Takes us around 15 minutes to launch or retrieve. Hope this helps FE
Edit: oops forgot to add.... If you have a newer boat, (2015 or newer), most are equipped with siphon drains right in middle of the 11” grooves. My opinion is don’t worry about them, they are designed stron enough for the boat to drag over them while loading/ unloading, your not going to hurt them ( I’m told). However grooving out the PVC bunk in the area around the scupper drain in probably a good idea, (specifically when the boat is in it’s final storage position). Others have done this.
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