You should be able to get an aftermarket hitch reciever for pretty much any car from either Kurt, or Reese. I installed one on my Pontiac Solstice roadster it took about an hour (simple tools and very good instructions).
Then buy one of those T-bar racks that plug into the reciever. I bought my T-bar for like $79 bucks on Amazon, it doesn't swing down, the ones that swing down are are nicer but way more expensive. Mine is rated at 500 lbs and supports the bulk of the weight of the boat and provides the bulk of the safety factor with the boat and AMA's firmly strapped to the top of the T-bar.
No matter what roof bars you get on any vehicle, they are not sufficient to hold a TI and AMA. You will cave the roof of the car in, or worse yet rip the rack or the entire roof off the vehicle without the T-bar. We have had 3 Yukon Denali's, the rating on the factory rack is 250 lbs. I have caved in two roofs, and had to have another roof completely cut off and replaced. If you run in salt water I don't recommend putting the boat on the roof, you will trash your vehicle.
We have around 250k road miles with Hobies on the roof and a camper in tow,(can't use our TI trailer when we have our camper in tow), we are on our 4th Denali now.
If it was me I would get whatever cross bars you need to mount on the roof, I like the Thule aerobars, but there are many other good ones. I highly recommend not to buy anything else like pads or support wings, they are all very expensive and all of them dent the heck out of your boat,(we have tried them all, spending thousands of dollars in racks, and pads, ended up removing all of them, none of which are rated for this much weight, and every one of them dent the heck out of your hull, (especially in the key west sun a month at a time).
Keep in mind most of those pads and wings are a PIA to get on and off the vehicle, so when not hauling the kayak, they stay on the roof, they create a lot of wind noise on the highway, we couldn't park our Yukons in our garage with them mounted, and worse yet we damaged a couple sets in parking garages, (oops). You likely won't have that issue with a smaller vehicle unles you get a J rack (way not recommended with a TI).
Keep in mind with any smaller vehicle you cannot go on the highway in any kind of windy conditions, the boat on the roof will flip the car. Where we live there is a high bridge called the sunshine skyway, when the yellow light are flashing (high wind warnings) we get pulled over and are not allowed to cross the bridge with the TI on our roof, I'm sure most bridges have similar rules.
Also without the T-bar, it's really tough to get the TI up on the roof, with the T'bar it's actually pretty easy.
What we do is plug the T-bar in, slide the bare dry hull on the roof (everything removed from the boat, especially the seats). Once on the roof, I then slide two loose 1.5" dia 8ft long wooden closet poles under the boat so the slip into the long slots that go the entire length of the boat on 11" centers. If you have a newer model with the scupper drains you may need to notch out the pole to clear the scupper drains. Make sure the backs of the poles are on the T-bar, as they support 80% of your load.
You will need a set of 6 1"wide ratcheting straps (I bought mine at Home depot for about $15bucks). You will lose the boat without the ratchet straps.
What we do before putting the AMA's back on usually is stuff pool noodles along the side of the hull in between the racks wherever we can fit them, the pool noodles prevent caving your roof in when you go over railroad tracks, (go ahead,,, ask me how I know this...go ahead.....).
After centering the hull on the roof we usually put the AKA bars and AMA's on the boat (easiest way to haul the clumsy AKA bars). With the AMA folded tightly against the hull, you now strap the whole works down, one ratchet strap at each of the 6 connection points (at the ends of each rack and the ends of the T-bar), these are really important and keep the boat centered in the wind. Do not short cut this step, (or you'll lose Your boat). Make sure you have strong ropes in a V on both the bow and the stern, make sure they are tight.
Obviously if you just goin thru town, to a local launch, you don't need all the extra crap, we haul on the highway a lot. Our's will likely be on our roof for the next 3 months as we try to visit as many national parks as we can on our next great adventure, starting next month, (well if I can get my weight restrictions worked out (we might be overweight, still working out the details))
Good luck
FE
Our current rig, note the Y ropes on the bow (pretty important).
These are the 8 ft 1.5" dia closet poles I mentioned (Home depot)
This our T-bar (supports most of the weight)
This is our aftermarket hitch reciever (ordered from Reese, I think it was around a hundred bucks, took about an hour to install in the garage, no special tools needed), That's our $140 dollar Harbor Freight trailer (plus another hundred or so in mods to get it to fith my TI), we use that trailer locally, and when we don't have our camper in tow. Actually the boat lives on that trailer in the garage, takes all of 5 minutes to hook up to the car and get on the road to the water. Definitely trailers are the easiest with these big boats, (just FYI). We only car top because we have to.
Hope this gives you some ideas.....