We have had quite a few different motor combo's on our various TI's. Motor weight and location are the key factors. On the TI's anyway mounting the motor on the far rear behind the transom is not an option, any motor has to be mounted on the sides which the motors are really not designed for. Almost all outboards are designed to mount behind the boat on a transom. My opinion is of all the Hobie kayaks available the PA 17 would be the best candidate for a gas engine mounted at the stern. Since you already have the boat some simple tests will tell you if the setup will work. Before lifting a finger or proceeding any further. Just go find a crate lash it securly to the far back stern, and fill it with 30 lbs of bricks (or anything you can find (water bags will also work). Take the boat out and test the flotation, if the stern is underwater you got a problem, no need to procceed any further. While peddling and steering around does the boat move and steer properly. If you lock the rudder to the right but the boat continues to go straight, you've got another problem (maybe not impossible to overcome, but way more design work).
If all the tests above work out (they likely will) then I would quickly build a wood transom from pressure treated wood screwed and glued together with deck screws. Shouldn't take more than an hr to build and won't cost more than $10-$15 bucks to make. Basically you will take a 2x4 or 2x6 about 12-15" long and screw and glue it down vertically to then ends of two 1x5x12" deck boards. If you use a 2x6 you can have the bottom edge resting on the back handle, then attach the deck boards to the side of the transom board. You will need to cut the edge of the deck boards at an angle (because the rear deck slopes). Eyeball is fine for everything. You may want to lay some foam under the deck boards so you don't scratch the hull. Now just strap the whole works down with ratchet cargo straps (around the hull), throw the motor on and test it out (possibly a borrowed motor). If it performs as expected great, now you can design something more perminant. If it didn't work your out $15 bucks, and you have some kindling for camping (lol). It's really simple to extend the tiller controls, the tilt up mechanism, kill switch, and extend the starter ropes so you can operate everything from the rear seat. If you have to add steering, that's a bit more work. Ideally the goal would be to use the motor to get you to the fishing grounds, then tilt it up, then use the existing mirage drive and rudder system once at the destination, (thats basically what we do). I would definately have a safety line to the motor just in case (lol I've actually lost several outboards having them fall off). Weight will be the deciding factor here, a typical 6 horse is around 50-60 lbs, might be too much. We like the Honda 2.3 best, but most major brands also work, A lot of guys go for the Suzuki as well. The downside of the Honda is no reverse (fyi), that doesn't bother me a bit, especially with multiple mirage drives, we just reverse one mirage drive to use for reverse, you can turn on a dime in harbors. Good luck FE
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