PA 17t outboard motor mount

I want to get an outboard motor(2.5 HP) mounted on my PA 17T. I have seen a number of videos on YouTube of guys that have done this and some of the motor mounts look very professional. Does anyone know where to get a motor mount or are these guys just that good !
Has anyone tried an outboard motor mounted to the bracket that bassyaks sells for the PA 17T?

Thanks,
Jon

Be aware that the motor we recommend mounting to the PA 17T is the MortorGuide Xi5. Hull damage related to the installation of an outboard motor would void your warranty. Interesting idea though

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Howie Strech
Parts & Accessories Product Manager
Hobie Cat USA

I understand. That's why I am looking for a strong bracket. Don't people mount them on the TI's all the time.
I would like the boat to get to 8-10 mph max. I'm sure I can make a bracket that will work but some of the ones I saw on YouTube were really nice and attached to the rear H bar and the top of the rear section.
I have also thought about getting a poling platform attached to the side and rear H rails for strength then attach a motor mount to the poling platform where it attaches to the rear H rail.
Any ideas or comments would be great!
Thanks,
Jon

I put a suzuki 2.5 on my pa 17t. I mounted it on a plywood transom board mounted through the rear handels with longer bolts. I'm getting about 7.5 mph at wot with a fully rigged boat with two people. I weigh 175#s and my wife is 145#s. I dont think the rudder can handel much more power than the 2.5hp. As for any one selling a mount i have no idea.

sounds like what I want performance wise - so I guess I will have to build my own bracket unless someone else chimes in.
Thanks for the info!
Jon

We have had quite a few different motor combo's on our various TI's. Motor weight and location are the key factors. On the TI's anyway mounting the motor on the far rear behind the transom is not an option, any motor has to be mounted on the sides which the motors are really not designed for.
Almost all outboards are designed to mount behind the boat on a transom.
My opinion is of all the Hobie kayaks available the PA 17 would be the best candidate for a gas engine mounted at the stern.
Since you already have the boat some simple tests will tell you if the setup will work. Before lifting a finger or proceeding any further. Just go find a crate lash it securly to the far back stern, and fill it with 30 lbs of bricks (or anything you can find (water bags will also work).
Take the boat out and test the flotation, if the stern is underwater you got a problem, no need to procceed any further.
While peddling and steering around does the boat move and steer properly. If you lock the rudder to the right but the boat continues to go straight, you've got another problem (maybe not impossible to overcome, but way more design work).

If all the tests above work out (they likely will) then I would quickly build a wood transom from pressure treated wood screwed and glued together with deck screws. Shouldn't take more than an hr to build and won't cost more than $10-$15 bucks to make.
Basically you will take a 2x4 or 2x6 about 12-15" long and screw and glue it down vertically to then ends of two 1x5x12" deck boards.
If you use a 2x6 you can have the bottom edge resting on the back handle, then attach the deck boards to the side of the transom board. You will need to cut the edge of the deck boards at an angle (because the rear deck slopes). Eyeball is fine for everything. You may want to lay some foam under the deck boards so you don't scratch the hull.
Now just strap the whole works down with ratchet cargo straps (around the hull), throw the motor on and test it out (possibly a borrowed motor). If it performs as expected great, now you can design something more perminant. If it didn't work your out $15 bucks, and you have some kindling for camping (lol).
It's really simple to extend the tiller controls, the tilt up mechanism, kill switch, and extend the starter ropes so you can operate everything from the rear seat. If you have to add steering, that's a bit more work.
Ideally the goal would be to use the motor to get you to the fishing grounds, then tilt it up, then use the existing mirage drive and rudder system once at the destination, (thats basically what we do).
I would definately have a safety line to the motor just in case (lol I've actually lost several outboards having them fall off).
Weight will be the deciding factor here, a typical 6 horse is around 50-60 lbs, might be too much.
We like the Honda 2.3 best, but most major brands also work, A lot of guys go for the Suzuki as well.
The downside of the Honda is no reverse (fyi), that doesn't bother me a bit, especially with multiple mirage drives, we just reverse one mirage drive to use for reverse, you can turn on a dime in harbors.
Good luck
FE

Anyone wants to share pictures of their mount? I myself is buying a PA17 and wants to setup a Honda 2.3 outboard. Seeing others successfully setup an outboard does help this heavy kayak increased its popularity. Electric motor is not that interesting. Range and speed are not what serious anglers are looking for I think especially in near shore fishing.

I'm torn, we currently have a TI, and we like it but once you get it up to the speeds we want to go it gets physically demanding (like motocross), managing all the sailsets and such (FYI, we currently have twin outboards).
I've been following the PA 17 with interest (nice boat). We need a family type boat, something we can keep in the garage on the trailer. I'm currently looking at RIB's and the PA 17.
The problem we have living in SWFL and the keys is distances are huge and nice launching areas are far and few between. Currently where we launch from is ten miles round trip to our fav hang out, (Siesta key and South Lido beach), and 55 miles round trip to our second fav (Egmont key), by water. We got rid of our 24ft Sea ray a while back because we could no longer afford it.
If I were to get a PA 17 I would be mounting my twin Honda 2.3 motors on it. My final permament motor mount would be a pressure treated 2x6 board laying across the rear handle (maybe lashed down to the handle). I would then put two ram balls on the rear deck about a 12-15" up from the rear on the rear deck mounted as far apart as possible. I would then make alum struts connecting to the rear transom board. This way when not having the outboards along, I can mount a pair of Torqeedo 403's on the ram mounts (if I can ever afford them lol), or alternately put rod holders back there if I desire, (on the ram balls). This way if I ever sell the boat, I'll just throw a couple rod holders on the balls, no other mods to the hull. I would definately get a crate with 60 lbs of bricks and lash it to the rear deck to see if the stern can support that weight, then drive around a bit before mounting anything, might be too much weight.
The big deal here is I already own the Honda's, and already know a single Honda 2.3 wouldn't cut it for me (6-7mph with a single and 10-12mph with re-propped twins), similar to my current TI. Of course all would need to be determined, but my reason for thinking the PA 17 is the hull shape, I'm thinkin I could get it up on plane, if so then my top speed goes up to 15-16 mph. However I may need to tie steering into the motors.
I'll more likely end up with a center console RIB with a 40hp Yamaha and a biminy top (tons of those around here), either one should still fit in our garage on a trailer. Why try to re- invent the wheel.
FE

Here is my motor mount for a PA17t

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