Well as promised here are the pics of my re-routed formerly rear looped spinnaker stay/halyard line. I have done quite a few variations of the big loop around the back of the boat for the spinnaker halyard, and never got any of them to work very well. The problem lies in the distance the mast topper has to be away from the mast (about 2 ft to clear the main), and the downward force on the back of the mast topper, making the mast topper very hard to spin when you furl the mainsail. Of course you can totally ignore the potential problem, and not worry about the rear stay getting all tangled up in the mainsail whenever you do anything. Or you can fix the problem.
What I did was totally eliminate the rear loop for the halyard going around the back of the boat (could never get it to work well anyway). I instead now run a fixed rear stay that just clips to the back of the boat when setting up, and thats it.
The spinnaker halyard now runs down the same 3/8" dia PVC tubing that the Jib halyard runs down (yes I have two separate halyards, one for the jib and the other for the spinnaker). I can now furl/unfurl any of the sails anytime I please easily.
Here is a pic of the complete setup with the spinnaker all furled up, and the wing jib in place. Typically when I launch I put the wing jib up, put the boom on the jib, then just let the wing jib free wheel like a weathervane until I want to use it. I have gone out in 20 mph winds and pedaled figure 8's with the wing jib just freewheeling around up at the front of the boat, it doesn't seem to create any drag to the boat and doesn't impede steering so I typically just put it up when I go out, then pull it down when I go home. Instead of furling the wing jib tight to the mast which puts a strain on the internal working of the wing, I just remove the boom, and loosely wrap the wing jib around it's mast and lay it down in the boat for transport.
If I don't plan to specifically use the spinnaker that day I typically just leave the spinnaker lying down on the tramp with all the lines and furlers connected ready to haul up if I do decide to use it once out on the water.
Here is a pick of the mast topper with the now fixed (non moving) rear stay line, and the spinnaker halyard now running thru the same tubing as the jib halyard. The rear stay line is mounted inside 3/8" dia PVC tubing, this serves two purposes, one it prevents the rear stay line from fowling on the battens of the mainsail, and also when tacking the rear stay (when slack) harmlessly crosses the main when tacking without hanging up. The other purpose is if anyone has tried to maintain long ropes on their boat, they always tend to get all tangled up when putting the boat away, and you end up with a tangled mess, The PVC tubing prevents all the long lines from getting all tangled up. When I launch I just put the mast topper on, raise the mast, then just clip one clip at the back of the boat and I'm done.
Here is a pick of where the two halyard lines come out at the bottom. I just hoist the jib, then the spinnaker and cleat them in the cleats on the front AKA cross bar at the cleat positions Hobie happily provided for us. Notice the way the halyard lines are ran, they wrap around the back of the AKA bar, around the bottom then back up and into the cleat, this is the most sure and trouble free way to run lines into the cleats.
Now the sad story, I hadn't used my spinnaker in 3 yrs, it just hung in the garage unused since building the wing jib. A couple years ago I wanted more room in the garage so I hack sawed 5 inches off the end of my bowsprit so I could get more room in the garage. Huge mistake, now I have to make a new bowsprit because the gap between the spin and the jib is too narrow, and the spin no longer creates enough lift on the bow to prevent the boat from pitchpoling, (duh)
Of course I understand having a complex boat (with massive sailsets (240 sq ft) is not everyones cup of tea. It's just we go offshore quite a bit, and with a stock TI have gone out of Key West and were unable to get back in (blown out to sea) the first few time out years ago, since then we have never taken our TI offshore without the extra capabilities. Basically if your boat only goes 3mph, it's probably not a good idea to take it offshore (just common sense).
Again this summer we will be taking off for adventures unknown with our camper in tow, and the Ultimate Tandem Island on the roof (can't use the trailer when towing our camper). This year we are going to lake Hartwell in GA. I know of no other complex sailboat out there that you can cartop besides my rig, (good luck getting a 450 lb WR17 on your roof ( lol))
FE
EDIT:
It's nice that Hobie has finally came out with a pretty decent spinnaker kit, I suspect the spinnaker kit will not be for everyone (different strokes for different folks). I'm not in any way trying to knock Hobies spinnaker kit, or compete with it (all my stuff is strictly only for my own personal use, and honestly most of it is very old and worn out now). I'm just sharing how I overcame some issues with my setup in the hope others can possibly use some of the ideas if they want to (most are not interested).
Edit: Saturday 4-16-16 I lengthened the front of the bowsprit 8 inches longer that what is shown in the pic (the extension is removable so I can still store in the garage). Now the spacing between the spinnaker and the jib should be correct, and the spin should be tilted far enough forward to create lift to the bow and prevent the dreaded pitchpole (lol).