We have hydrofoils for our TI that we use once in a great while, but you have to add massive sail sets to the boat before even trying them, the stock sail simply isn't big enough, (just sayin it's a lot of work and a waste of time). If I had to do it again I would start with an F17 class cat (widened). Actually there is some merit to daggerboards and some worthwhile things we have done with daggerboards for kayak sailing that actually work. If you want to mess with that stuff there are several things you can do. First thing we tried was a weighted daggerboard. It worked really well. A 25 lb daggerboard with the weight at the bottom (2ft below the water) makes a revo or Oasis completely un tippable, you can sit on the gunwale of the kayak. You can also convert it into a swinging keel pretty easily just by adding a hinge near the top, or in my case I used 1/8 x2" x 2ft long spring steel for the shaft (it bends very easily 15 inches to one side or the other to counterbalance the boat. Down near the bottom the weighted part (about 6" tall and maybe 8"-10" long) is shaped like a fin with the spring steel mounted near the leading edge. You mount your spectra control lines near the middle or near the rear of the fin (depending on how much steering twist on the fin you want). Since the weight is on a long skinny bar, it's super easy to make the daggerboard retractable. I just cut open the top of a mirage plug, surrounded the 1/8"x2" bar (all greased up) withe automotive body putty, then filled the rest of the mirage plug with urethane foam, (4# foam is very strong). The plug is strong, but not too strong, if you accidentally hit somethin, it will break (you want that). The setup works best on a tandem kayak, I use my turbo, or eclipse flow 90 fins on the mirage drive in the front mirage slot, (I alway pedal), and the retractible swinging daggerboard in the rear mirage slot. The steerable daggerboard actually works if you can keep your forward motion up, however if you stall out on a tack, or aren't quick enough adjusting the daggerboard steering you can imagine what happens, (found that one out the hard way). With this setup I can run a much larger kayak sail (33 sq ft wing sail) without fear of tipping over. Actually this setup is almost as fast as my full blown TI with it's 90sq ft and AMA's. Personally I prefer wing sails over regular sails because the heeling moment on wing sails is 1/2 of a regular sail, ( the heeling moment of a sail is the force trying to tip you over). Also a wing has more power than a regular sail, I'm guessin my 33 sq ft wing is equivilent to around a 50-60 sq ft regular sail. When not using the dagger board we just retract it, (in the up position the DB is above the scupper cart wheels), or we just remove the mirage drive plug and lay it down in the boat. When not using the wing we just furl it up and strap it to the side of the kayak (just like we do with regular hobie kayak sails). We use PVC furlers (simple and cheap) on all of our kayak sails. I'm just guesin here, but I'm pretty sure I could get by with a 25sq ft wing on a revo 13, (the mast would need to be fiberglass pultrusion vs aluminum (the 7/8's dia aluminum masts bend too easily). You may need to also re-enforce the mast holder inside the hull on regular hobies when you start putting bigger sails on hobie kayaks (I just mounted a 6x6 1/4" thick PE cutting board with a hole in it to the base of the hull, gobbed it all down with silicone). When you sell the boat you just remove it (peels out easily) and put it on the next boat. We mount those plates in all our hobies when we buy them, (lol because we are stupid and always put way too many sails on all our kayaks) Just fun stuff to play with. FE
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