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 Post subject: Cheek Block on 16
PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:44 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:06 am
Posts: 2
Any way to replace the roller in the cheek block without removing the st.st. block. Would like to glue a new roller around the shaft if possible.
Any suggestions. thanks in advance- :?:


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 Post subject: Cheek blocks
PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:22 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 15090
Location: Oceanside, California
No way I have ever heard. You have to replace the whole thing. There is a lot of load on the part.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:38 pm 
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Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 2:02 pm
Posts: 287
Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
Update to the aussie jib halyard system and eliminate that cheeck block at the base of the mast.....The aussie system reduces the load and u will be able to tie to the cleat dirrectly.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:36 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 4:43 pm
Posts: 108
Location: Tulsa Oklahoma
agree with ALEXSAILS you will like it much better :D

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 Post subject: Aussie
PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 9:48 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
We still recommend routing the Aussie halyard around the cheek block to absorb flexing loads against the halyard. Then tie off to the cleat.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:45 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 8:06 am
Posts: 2
Thanks for the help but not familiar with "update to the aussie jib halyard system". Where shoud I look? :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:05 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
When I had my H16 I the sheve was missing from my cheek block. I never bothered to replace it. It worked just fine for me over the 5 years I sailed the boat and it is still working for the new owner over the past 3 years.

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 3:40 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2006 1:20 pm
Posts: 418
Location: West Maui
Fay wrote:
Thanks for the help but not familiar with "update to the aussie jib halyard system". Where shoud I look? :roll:
Basically, the Aussie system moves the 3:1 from between the mast tang and the cheek block/cleat on the mast to between the mast tang and the top of the jib. Add a small cheek block just above where the top jib batten hits the mast on the same side as the stock cheek block/cleat and you'll pretty much eliminate the batten caps hanging up during a tack.

You can either build your own or buy a complete system from Hobie or Murray's. Buy a tool bag to clip on to the tramp lacing to store all the halyard line once the jib us up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 10:13 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 11:32 pm
Posts: 4
In building my own Aussie halyard what is the legnth and diameter of the cable which connects from the mast tang to the first block in the system? Also what legnth of rope halyard is needed to complete the system?


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