Best way to repair or Some A$$hole hit me with a jetski

So out sailing yesterday and and two Rhodes scholars on a jetski managed to hit my poor defenseless Hobie. I know what you're thinking, "Brynn you must sail on a pretty small lake." Correct, I was in the Gulf of California (Rocky Point) and at 62,000 square miles, there's hardly room to maneuver. "Well, maybe you should but your sails all the way up to increase visibility" Correct once again, I'm thinking of spray painting my tequila sunrise sails a nice dark blue green color. The whole thing was beyond comprehension but at this point just happy to back home.

I'm looking for the best way to make the necessary repairs to my hull. Please see the pictures as I don't know the best way to describe the damage. The main damage I would describe as a tear. Approx. 5-6inches in length I don't know how deep or how bad it is other than the area immediately surrounding the actual split now has some flex whereas I was looking pretty solid before hand. Additionally there is damage to the bow area and I can see some fabric layers where some chunks are missing. I believe this to be mostly superficial as I know this part of the hull is as strong as it gets with the two pieces meeting there.

So what's the best way to make good, better than new, repairs? I've seen a lot of information out there and some youtube videos, so hopefully I don't need step by step but instead what is the best methodology and products to use. Also, a former owner repainted just this hull somewhere along the way. The finish is very flat and there is much debris caught under the paint so if this would be a good time to recoat the entire hull I would like to know.

Thanks for your suggestions.
--Brynn

If they hit you, why aren't they more concerned about what they need to do to get your boat fixed? If they hit you, they were in the wrong. You have rights over them all day long. I would have filed a report to be honest. I would have been steaming to say the least. Did you get any of their information?

_________________
James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

I dont know what to do....but....

did you file a report? Get their name/insurance information/DL license number?

i would have jumped off the hobie onto their seadoo and beat them to death....what idiots.

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1981 Hobie 16
1982 Hobie 14 turbo (sold)
1996 SeaDoo GTI
1999 Hunter 340

He was in Rocky Point - Mexico.

The bow is an easy repair, and really so is the side - it's just scarier to do because it's going to get a lot worse looking before it gets better.

It not something you want to do yourself for the first time, especially if you're not familiar with the process.

You can look at the "This Old Hobie Series" in the HOTLINE - www.hobiecat.com/hobieclass - that will at least give you an idea of what's involved.

Sorry about your luck. I would be highly pissed, but Rhodes scholars??????.......

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'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11

Hobie Mirage Classic

Thanks for the info. Yes, steaming to say the least and would have loved to drag them to shore and call the police but as was pointed out, I was in Mexico, better to limp home than get arrested myself. The two individuals in question didn't appear to speak English or Spanish as a first language. If the damage had been severe enough that a hull was seriously breached I really don't know what I would have done. I do think I'll invest in a decent VHF radio before I hit the ocean without having a chase boat or other friends around.

As to the repairs, I reviewed all the "This Old Hobie" articles. If my understanding is correct the side damage will be "gets worse before it gets better" type as I will end up completely cutting out the entire weakened area and putting a 3"x9" opening in the side of the hull. I may need a few beers before taking a roto-zip to the hull. Then, using the products in the article, rebuilt the area. Any suggestions for doing the foam/fiberglass laminate on the interior of the hull? I do have a 5" port on the top of the hull but it is more than an arm's length away from the damage.

As to the bow damage, I don't want to cut anything away but instead sand down to clean, unaffected hull and essentially follow the steps for a "bottom-job"? Speaking of bottom-job (bj in the interest of time), how do I know when one is necessary (and yes, I know, never too many bj's)? The paint is already gone but as I stated before, a previous owner painted the hull but i seriously doubt it was a proper gelcoat. Since I'll be doing these repairs i want to sand clean the entire hull and gelcoat the whole thing so it looks like new.

I'm including two pictures at the bottom of the current keel area. Is there a template I can download to see what it looked like when new? I don't really think I need to add layers but I'm basing that simply on the fact it feels solid.




Any tips/input very much appreciated.
--Brynn

The bow's easy. Grind out broken glass, re-glass, fair, gelcoat and you're done. Don't rotozip through the side. Gently remove the outer skin and broken foam, and assess the inner skin. Chances are you can laminate a new piece of glass ON TOP of the inner skin. The "old boat" article with the fishing line is awesome, but that's not the easiest way for a beginner to do that repair.

When you get to the inner skin, rough it up with 80 grit paper and cut out a piece of glass (7oz is what I use) that overlaps the damage by about 2 to 3".
Tape a piece of wax paper that's larger than the glass to a piece of plywood.
Wet out the glass and allow it to set up leather hard (Don't let it cure fully).
Mix a small batch of vinylester resin and glue it to the inner skin of your boat.
Re-foam with divinicel or similar 1/4" foam. Glue in place with thickened resin.
Fair and glass the outer skin leaving room for a layer of gelcoat.

Hope that helps.

Oh...and... you need one of these.

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Still a little unsure on 3 things.

1. In the fiberglass world, fair means sand/polish flush with the surrounding area and/or proper profile?

2. Doesn't it go without saying that if the that outside sustained that kind of damage and is now slightly flexible that the inside layer is now compromised? Will adding fresh resin/new foam/outer fiberglass restore original strength without removing interior layer?

3. You reference the "blind repair" article but even in that one they ground through all layers, probably biggest confusion.

Although I've never done this type of thing before, it's been my experience that my ability to follow directions combined with labor of love almost always yield acceptable to professional results. But I do want to eliminate as many decision points before I even get started as possible. This is my first boat and I only spent around a $1000 on it but I'm impressed it took a decent hit and got me home safely so I really want to do this right.

1. In the fiberglass world, fair means sand/polish flush with the surrounding area and/or proper profile?

Yes, smooth it out, make it flush. Generally speaking in this case, make a nice flat area so that the new glass has something to attach to. A flange of sorts.

2. Doesn't it go without saying that if the that outside sustained that kind of damage and is now slightly flexible that the inside layer is now compromised?

Not necessarily, you have to look. But if the inner skin is compromised...
Basically, what I'm saying is do the repair exactly the same as in the article, but instead of using the fishing line and going from the inside, since it's on a flat area of the hull, just glue the new cloth to the outside of the inner skin. Fiberglass noobs have much better luck bonding this way. The "fishing line" technique is very cool, but it isn't the easiest way to get a solid bond and it takes longer. From memory, I think in Rick's article he repaired the bottom of a hull, which doesn't have a layer of foam. It's necessary to go from the inside on that one.

3. You reference the "blind repair" article but even in that one they ground through all layers, probably biggest confusion.

Yes. What I'm suggesting is leaving the inner skin so you have a solid backing to glue new glass to. You can absolutely do it that way, but I'm giving you a fool proof way that's less technical. I would get rid of some of the broken glass on the inner skin, but generally leave it for backing. There is no benefit to gluing the new glass to the inside of the skin on your particular repair other than to impress your friends...which might be worth it.

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Well it's always worth it to impress your friends, plus I'll need the extra strength for the hull mounted stinger.

One more question, best tool to start stripping the damaged material with? Sanding disc on rotary grinder or maybe one of those steel brushed paint eaters that go on power drills? Thanks again.
--Bynn

What I'm saying is, you'll have better luck (stronger repair, better bond) if you glue the patch from the outside of the inner skin. Use a DA with 80 grit. Don't take more material away than necessary.

When you get to the gel coat step, this might help:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0fO8TVEtoQ[/youtube]

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