SOFTSPOT!! OH NO!

Hello!
My H16 has a pretty large (2ft long) softspot on the upper starboard Hull just in front of the tramp frame post. Here is my idea on how to fix it:

Drill A 6 inch hole smack in the center of the softspot area and lay down a lot of fibregalss to the INSIDE of the hull under the softspot and the cover the hole with one of those hatches you can get from the Hobie Catalauge. I would do the same on the opposite hull to make it look semetrical.

Will that work? Will it prodive enough reinforcement?

Thanks!

_________________
'72 Hobie 16
with
#56 Gonzo Nationals

Sorry to say it will work but I would not recommend high wind sailing.

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Bodhisatfa

The soft spot is usually the result of the fiberglass skin (inner or outer) separating from the foam core. You need to re-connect the separated skin to the core and the easiest and often most effective way to do that is by injecting resin into the soft spot.

Cutting a 6" hole in the front of your deck is almost certainly a bad idea. The hole will significantly weaken the deck even further. Also, simply laminating glass to the inside of the deck won't do anything to re-connect the delaminated skin to the inner core. Having the skins and core properly bonded is what gives Hobie hulls their strength.

First thing you should try is the injection technique (it has been discussed here numerous times and I believe is also a topic in the FAQ section). It can bring your hulls back to "rock-hard" strength. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, then maybe look at alternate repairs.

sm

Thanks for your input! I think I'll back away from my method and try injecting resin.

_________________
'72 Hobie 16
with
#56 Gonzo Nationals

I had to do it to my port hull.It has worked great.Just follow the instructions.The hardest part was drilling into the hull.

It worked really well for my first hobie, and I couldn't be happier with the results. I would not recommend cutting into the hull. But it would be nice to have a little extra storage!

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http://www.GetWetSailing.com It's A Great Day To Sail!

I have a Hobie 16' with soft spots on both hulls just forward of the trampoline/frame posts. I've read about drilling holes partially into the deck and injecting resin, but I haven't actually found any detailed instructions on the procedure. Could someone please provide some specificity? For example, do I drill only partially into the material and inject resin into the hole until it can't take anymore? How do I know I've drilled as far as I should without drilling all the way through? How close should the holes be to each other? (The soft spots are about one foot diameter.) How many holes are too many/few? Thanks in advance. I've had to undo mistakes I've made in the repair process often enough to really try to avoid that scenario with lots of questions up front.

JEFFMG....search through this forum.There is a ton of info. on doing this repair.

Be sure to use GitRot as your epoxy resin and go to an animal hospital / vet. and ask for a couple of large syringe's (used for horses/cattle).They gave me mine for free,which was nice.As to the drill pressure,go very slowly and you will "feel" when you are through the gelcoat and 'glass.

When I did my repair a few years ago I used a Dremel Moto Tool (a small, handheld hobby tool) instead of a drill. It's less intimidating; More finess; Better control. You have a better feel for when you get through the gelcoat/glass and into the foam.

West Marine sells empty caulk containers that work very well when you have a large area to fix. When you are filling a delaminated deck, you need to be aware that you will probably get resin in the textured deck surface. I ended up using Interlux Interdeck to resurface the deck's raised areas and it turned out great.
Thanks!

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Eric Weller
2006 F18 Capricorn
1980 H16
Keep the pointy side up!

Wow having just bought a used 16, this thread got me nervous. The good news is no issues like that on my elderly hulls.

I bought a 70s boat - had no clue about soft spots. He wanted 1000.00 I left with it at 450.00

Later I learned don't buy with softspots! IT has them! It's still been fun for the past two summers. LOTS OF HOURS ON IT. We just try not to step on those spots.

So knowing it wasn't good - I found a 82 (asking 2200.00) with 2 sails lots of parts and I got it for 1700.00 (SOLID) this is my baby.

So lately - I picked up a 450.00 boat for 175.00. IT WAS MORE SOLID than my first boat. But has two hatches installed in front of the two front pylons. I knew what that was! But they are SOLID and it's solid around them. Opening them I could see and feel the repair inside. the holes probably alloowed them to inject glue/resin into the layers. All I know is it's very solid. (So I'm consdering doing this to the soft spot boat?) it appears to have worked very well. I had read about drilling and injecting. But after seeing the repaired boat with the two 5" circular hatches installed. I think it's a excellent way to make the repairs.

Having hatches in front of the pylons is a bad idea. It significantly weakens the most stressed part of the hull. Most hull repairs can be easily accomplished simply by injecting epoxy to fill any voids and not cutting a hole in the deck.

Does anyone know of a hull failing at a front hatch? That would have to be impressive!

_________________
Eric Weller
2006 F18 Capricorn
1980 H16
Keep the pointy side up!

Didn't have a port. Didn't need one. Broke anyway.

If I could do my restoration all over again I would use gorilla glue for the injection, not the expensive yacht glue like west system (it works great but $$$). I would also just $50 paint job the whole boat after a good sanding and filling a few low spots nicks and dings with dynalite, not premium marine filler (again very $$$).


Adding inspection ports does not weaken the hulls. If the port is properly adheared and fastened in place, please explain how this "weakens" the hulls and increases the chance of the bows breaking off? Bows break from lots of wave jumping, surf sailing, and hard beach landings all combined with 30 years of age... not hatches. Fiberglass gets its strength under tensile pressure, hence the two layers of fiberglass over weak ass foam instead of just 3/8" of heavy thick glass. How does the hatch reduce this tensile strength? I agree a hole in the boat weakens it, but this is a hole with strong plastic sealing and tieing it back together.

Has anyone actually seen a failure based on a deck plate installation? One that wasn't the result of a poorly sealed deck plate resulting in a rotten core and giant soft spots all the way around the hatch? It just doesn't seem likely to me based on the fact that the hulls breaking clean off of hobies are doing so on the UP swing, not down swing. It starts at the bottom where the hauls join together then rips up the sides like a phone book and finally crushes the fiberglass on the top deck. At what point does the tensile strength of the upper deck come into play here? AFTER the boat is completely sunk I assure you!

Anyway, just inject gorilla glue via the injection method. Don't waste your time with expensive materials when the gorilla glue, bondo, or whatever other cheap materials you use will out last the life in your hobie anyway. Would you spend $300 fixing a $500 car or just buy another car that runs well for $500? would you buy mercedes benz paint for a honda civic? Some would! You just have to decide what works for you.