Need help with repairing a H16

Please see pictures at the link provided. I have a problem with my rudders as one of them will not engage fully. It's an older boat and I replaced the rigging when I purchased it, but after that I tried to launch and discovered the rudder issue. I also was told that I could sail it without the jib, but I am not sure about this. The guy that I showed it to did not understand how my jib would be rigged because his H16 had a different set up. Any help with these issues would be greatly appreciated.


http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/ab238/scottrespess/Scott%20Hobie%2016%20Pics/

Thanks,

Scott

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Scott Respess

1984 Hobie 16
Plum Crazy Nationals

Your images require login... can you simply post or make public in some way?

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks Matt. They are public now.

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Scott Respess

1984 Hobie 16
Plum Crazy Nationals

I would not sail without the jib. That setup looks like the older system yet the stripes on the hull make me think the boat is newer than mine (mine is an '85 with a different jib traveler). What year is the boat? It will be the last numbers on engraved on the serial number on the stern of each hull. There is an adjustment screw on each tiller which older models did not have but they may be replacement rudder castings since the tramp frame is black anodized but the castings aren't. There are threads here that describe how to lubricate and adjust the rudder cams. Are the cams in good condition? They are easy to replace. If they are rivetted in then they are original. Replacements are installed with special screws that are used after the rivets are drilled out. I always carry spare cams just in case.

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Howard

I've never seen a rudder cam quite like that one. Looks like the cam is missing or the plunger goes right up into the rudder casting. Never seen a plunger with a cotter pin either. Your lower casting must really be ancient.

Your jib is a system based on the plastic Trentec traveler car, but some pieces may be missing or I can't see everything on your front crossbar and corner castings. Here's a previous post I uploaded to the forum:

I recently did a similar upgrade to my '81 H16 jib system using two swivel cam cleats, Trentec's car, and one cheek block on each side. If you're reasonably handy these should be pretty self-explanatory but if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. I took my time and laid it all out carefully BEFORE drilling. It's about a two beer job....

Here are some photos:

This is the instruction card off the Trentec packaging. Not too easy to read but it's got some good information.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 4676_n.jpg

An aft overview:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 6425_n.jpg

A fore overview:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 3962_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 6507_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 1711_n.jpg

Detail shots with dimensions:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 0310_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 5503_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 5281_n.jpg

Make sure you position the cheek block so that the outhaul line (attached to the Trentec car) moves parallel along the track. Then make sure the swivel cleat it returns through is positioned forward enough on the rail for the outhaul line to miss the swivel cleat that the jib sheet runs through.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 1861_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 5328_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak- ... 0458_n.jpg

One thing that may not be totally clear is the fact that you need to tie a piece of shock cord between the two plastic cars. Tie it from the inboard hole of one to the inboard hole of the other. This is what returns them to center when you uncleat the outhaul line.

Also, post a picture of your front corner casting and be sure to show whatever block is mounted there. Mine is the cheek block that the outhaul line runs through.

Hope it helps...

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'81 H16

If it ain't a blowin', I ain't a goin'

Your starboard cam looks to be rotated in the locked position. It would not be able to lock onto the tiller arm. Requires forced rotation to open useing a blade screw driver to depress the plunger under the cam. Take a look at the rudders and cams FAQ: http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=467

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

sunvista: I think what you're seeing is the top of a fiberglass or plastic rudder pin rather than the plunger.

ECU_sailor: Take Matt M's advice. Once you learn exactly how the cams, etc. are supposed to work, the solutions to rudder locking problems become pretty clear. It will help immensely if you can get someone local who knows their stuff to show you in person.

Good luck!

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

Thanks for all the help. I will post some more pics later of my Jib Traveler Car system. The boat is stored about an hour from here, so it will be next time I get down there. It would normally be this weekend, but I am going to be out of town.

If I need to replace the rudder cams, how difficult of a task are we talking. Is it something that a moderately mechanically minded person can do thereselves.


Two more thoughts while I am thinking about them. I am going to try to find my harken block and take some pictures so that someone can give advice for rigging. I just get confused trying to figure out how to connect the upper and lower for my main sheet.

Secondly when I raise my main sail and clip the halyard in place there is still a few to 6-8 inches of space between the top of the mast and the sail. Is this normal, or is that halyard stretched? I replaced everything that I could originally, but the hobie dealer sent me one or two lines I cant remember that were for a 14 Turbo. So, I just ended up leaving the old rigging in those two instances. I'll take some more pics and step the mast prior to taking. Thanks again.


I was also told to just use a screwdriver in the bracket when stepping the mast, is there a special pin? And I am also missing most of the parts for the trapeze. Should I buy used trapeze wires and harnesses?


Sorry to bombard you all with so much, but you really have been a big help, I hope that I can learn enough about the boat to help some others in the future.

Thanks,

Scott

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Scott Respess

1984 Hobie 16
Plum Crazy Nationals

Scott,

replacing the rudder cams is not too hard. Search this site for a youtube video by Jeremy of Surf City Catamarans that goes through the process step by step. Edit: here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUUA7l6fzIk Search also for mainsheet reeving and you will find several different diagrams and photos.

Your sail should go all the way up. Mine stopped about 6" short just as yours. I purchased a new halyard from Mariner Sails and mine now goes all the way up. I don't know why the bead on my old one was off by that much. Didn't look like it had slipped.

Using a screwdriver in the mast step is perfectly fine. Just remember to remove it when sailing. There is a small pin that comes with step hinge but I think many lose it and use a screwdriver. I still have the small pin and use it. Definately be sure to put it back in when unstepping the mast. I almost dropped a mast because I forgot to re-insert the pin.

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'88 Nationals Blue
Hobie Alter Signature Model
Sail #11

Hobie Mirage Classic