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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:27 pm 
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Hi.. I've looked at the SoloRight probably 100 times... but just aren't getting the concept...

.... does the "paddle" portion go under the hull/deck lip? if so, doesn't it hit the tramp lacing rivets ?

... or does it go into the daggerboard well?

Just wondering.... otherwise I'm just gonna flip my boat and experiment w/a 6 or 8 foot oar.

it's an 18SX and I need leverage to right it myself... from the video, looks like a regular joe can right the prindle 18 alone... so I outta do it on the 18... but the wings make it a much SLOWER process....

thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 12:45 pm 
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In the case of an 18, it is designed to be used with the daggerboard well. This clip should help....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCbihZsXESg


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 10:49 am 
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I have an unused one for a daggerboard/centerboard that I don't need anymore-$99 plus shipping.

Danberger at mindspring.com


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:15 pm 
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Location: Sacramento, Ca
This looks like a great way to solo right your boat, does it damage the dagger well? It seems like it might be possible to damage the boards too?

Any one have any thoughts about this?

Thanks,

Adam


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 1:13 am 
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Hi ive built a soloright i used an oar, trimmed the paddle end a couple of inches ,final lenght approx 77 inches ,glassfibre the oar i then put a layer of carbon fibre on top of the glassfibre layer,i wasnt very good at mixing the hardener for the carbon so 1 month later its still a bit soft,if i made another this is the bit i would have tried to do better.Anyway youve got youre strenghend oar,you then attach in my case a 4 inch wide by 7 inch long lexan plate onto the paddle end,you then need to heat the lexan and bend to the right angle,i used a heat gun but be carefull, there are many pictures posted on other cat sites to illustrate what i describe,you also need to attach a small fairlead 11 inches from the shaft end mines on the underside of the shaft,the lines from the crossbars make a loop around the shaft and go through the fairlead its only there to keep the lines in position and then some form of anti slip is required on the top side of the shaft,the bit you will walk along.Ive used it once so far and im not heavy,for the first go i had not got my line lenghs sorted so ijust tied the lines to the fore and aft beams,i used my standard righting line and crept up my soloright nothing happens until you are at the end of the soloright then just when you think youve wasted youre time on this pole the boat starts to pop back over brilliant.The lexan plate fits in between the daggerboard and the trunk again like the fairlead on the oar the lexan is only there to stop the oar from moving around so there is not much pressure being applied to it.As described mine works i can and have solorighted my h 18 .Ps if i can make one anyone can i am not the most practical person in the world.Cheers Clive


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:03 pm 
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GREAT JOB!

I'm just cautious about the lexan part going into the daggerboard well.

1. HOW DEEP should the water be when you use this thing? I sail in LOTS of shallow water... like less than 8 feet deep.

I don't want the boat coming upright and the oar or righting pole hitting the bottom (of the water) and breaking something.

2. Do you mind... approximately how much do you weigh? I'm 160 pounds and wonder if a soloright that's 77 inches long would work ?

THank you.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 3:31 pm 
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Hi Rob im around the same weight if not a bit less than yourself,im not big at all,the lexan plate bit bears no pressure its just there to stop the oar moving,i guess up to 7 ft deep youre ok but under that might be a bit risky,i cant really be of much more help on this one,the soloright works well due to the higher centre of gravity ie weight on top of pole instead of below as with a normal righting pole,i guess the only answer is try not to flip the boat in shallow water,its a hard one i know but at present cant think of anything else,sorry Clive


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:43 am 
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Location: Sacramento, Ca
So am I getting this right, are most of you guys just using an oar with a bent piece of plastic on the end? Where are you attaching the stabelizing lines? Seems like the dolphin striker and eyelet where the main sheet ties off might be good places?

This sounds so simple and so inexpensive to make, why aren't they more popular? Is there any chance of damaging the dagger well or board?

Thanks

Adam


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:58 am 
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Thats it although you strenghthen the oar up a bit with glassfibre and carbon fibre wrap.The lines on mine tie around the crossbeams which are out of the water or top.Its these lines which take the weight of the boat so make sure you use strong stuff,you should buy one or make one as cheap as you can and give it a go.you can adjust the line lenghs to suit you,maybe slightly shorter if you are really light but the soloright might be a bit steeper to climb up,but it should work ok,ive got a hawian righting line on my h 18 now so i can use both hands to steady myself when i walk up the soloright. Cheers Clive


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:58 am 
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Location: Sacramento, Ca
So when you go over you clip the lines on the solorite to the crossbars near the tramp? Do you have any idea how long your oar is, or how long your lines are?

Any chance you can post some pictures of the reinforcement of the oar?

Thanks so much, and sorry for all the questions,

Adam


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:21 pm 
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Hi Adam ill see if i can post some piccys maybe tomorrow,ive still not trimmed my lines to the right size yet but ill see if again i can get some info on the exact size ,dimensions etc .Cheers Clive


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 2:22 pm 
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Hey thanks so much, I would really appreciate it.

Adam


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:37 am 
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Hi Adam, sorry i dont think i can upload pictures to this site,So line length at moment is a 10m length thats 5m a side thats to long but i didnt know how much line to get so i went over rather than under,not got around to shortening it yet.Total length of oar end to end of lexan is 75 in ,the bent bit of lexan on the end of the oar measures 3.5in by 3.5 in,the other half of the lexan attached to the paddle end is 5 in.Idid one layer of fiberglass around the oar top to most of the paddle end and then i then covered the glass with one layer of carbon fibre wrap,i bought a carbon fibre laminating kit and it contained the glass fibre and the carbon plus the hardeners ,but there was just enough materials for the job,uk price was about £40 i dont know what that would be in dollars,still you only make one though,i bought the oar of ebay and also the lexan offcut,the whole thing cost about £70 to make,well worth it if you sail on your own .Cheers Clive


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:59 am 
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Location: Sacramento, Ca
hey thanks so much for your help. The line lengths are the main thing I was looking for. If you took pictures and would like to email them to me I'd be happy to post them on here. I'd love to see the fiberglass job that you did. My email address is acdavis at gmail dot com

Thanks so much,

Adam


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:49 pm 
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No problem i will send tomorrow. Clive


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