Hulls on an '84

Hi folks, so I have solid hulls w/out any soft spots or delam. Problem is I just can't seem to bring out the "eureka" shine on my white hulls. The oxidation was mild to moderate so I used 600 grit wet sand and followed it by a 900 grit (all wet sand by hand). Then I used 3M's compound, that was exciting in its' own sense. Lastly I sealed it with my fav car wax. It does have a much better luster but I think it could be better. I think the gel coat is in good condition. I have read numerous threads in gel coat restoration but I wanted my fellow cat owners personal experiences/successes.

Penetrol is in fact a genie in a steel can, helped some on the hulls but not the awesome results as on metal.
Appreciate the help,

Southeast of Disorder
'84 H16

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Southeast of Disorder
'84 H16 Blue Hawaiian

Penetrol on the hulls? Never heard that before.

After the compound (done with a machine), you need to follow up with 3M Finesse-It II (done with a foam pad on a machine) to bring out the high gloss.

Make sure to wax after to seal the pores.

I don't know what kind of buffer you are usign but the orbital ones they sell in most places don't do the job. They are great for removing wax but that isn't what we are after here. I would start with a wool head (be careful and don't let it sit too long in one spot or you'll burn it). then go to a finishing compound and a foam head then finish it off with wax. To help your newly found shine last, top your wax off with a teflon wax sealer.

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat

Agreed - you need a machine like this:

To do the heavy work.

Thats what you need. I have a Milwaukee that is heavy as hell. My arms get pretty tired by the time i'm done polishing the fishing boat every spring. I have been looking at the dewalt like you posted. Much lighter... maybe I'll get myself a xmas present just in time to polish out the fresh gel coat on the hobie.

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat

Thanks guys.
I have read somewhere in here someone using penetrol on fiberglass. Either way, didn't help much.

Thats' what I used. A Milwaukee grinder/buffer. Yep, she'll put some guns on yer'. Seemed liked too much power so I kept the speed faily low constantly working circular patterns. I used the wool pad (slightly wet) with the 3M compound after the wet sanding. Though I still had to remove the compound by hand. That was the real work out. So I could only work in about 18" areas. Anything larger and it was way too much work to remove it and the buffer would not remove it with either style pad. Must be in the technique.

Foam head? So the finesse finish is applied directly to this pad?

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Southeast of Disorder
'84 H16 Blue Hawaiian

you can wet the compound if it starts to dry out on you while your working it. Its not as easy as "wipe on-wipe off" it does take time especially if your hulls are chalky. 900 grit should polish up with no problem. I normally take paint to 1500 before I hit it with the buffer but 900 should be good enough. There is an art to the pressure... not enough and your not cutting, too much and your burning. BTW burns suck, you will be reminded of it for a while until the sun fades it out.

I normally apply compounds and waxes to the foam heads and then smear them around on the surface a little before firing up the buffer. If you don't you will be wearing more wax than your boat. keep a water bottle or a bucket of water close and as its starts to dry sprinkle some water on it and keep working. The haze left over when your done should wipe off fairly easily. If not, hit it with a wet rag first.

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat

Thanks, and yes I was covered in milkshake compound the first few attempts.
Never thought of keeping the working area damp. Thanks for the tip Reel. This should help considerably. I think I was letting the compound "dry out" to much on the buffer. Baking it in even at a low speed setting.

I will try it again this evening,
Thanks for all the tips,
Steve

Southeast of Disorder
'84 H16

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Southeast of Disorder
'84 H16 Blue Hawaiian

the higher the speed on the buffer the quicker you will dry it out. you are creating alot of heat with the rotary buffer if your doing it right. Good luck and post some pics when you get it gleaming!

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat

You'll get better control and a better outcome with an orbital buffer rather than a rotary one ... but it might take a little longer.

you are correct orbitals are easier to work with but you will never get the kind of finish you'll get with a rotary.

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat

Regarding the wax, the average car wax is designed for non-porous clearcoat surfaces. Gelcoat waxes are designed differently, so the lack of clarity or residue may also be caused by the wax.

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'77 Goldfinger, blue hulls

Thanks.
Any preferred "gel coat wax" items out there you guys would recommend?

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Southeast of Disorder
'84 H16 Blue Hawaiian

400>600>800>1200 wet-sand with a D.A. (orbital sander)
then Milwaukee buffer 3m machine "orange" compound...24" at time with a sponge and bucket handy for wetting and flushing (helps to have a helper man the sponge or hose to keep flushing) If you see the basket weave in the gel-coat you've got it perfect...start to see green through the gel-coat you've gone TOO FAR (right side of first pic)
then some wax, used "zymol" from wally world.
wipe with clean rag
spritz with water and wax again
wipe again and wholla! It's a little foggy around the scar because I cleaned it with MEK to prep for gel-coat.

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Jack