Jib downhaul block replacement?

I have 2 people ask me so now I am curious too. How do you replace the downhaul block on the jib halyard assembly? They sell just the block do they expect you to cut the crimp off the eye and reswag it? The part is DOWNHAUL BLOCK 11070000 seen on page 3 here http://2010.archive.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/PARTS_14-16.pdf

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Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

Fa,
if you need to replace only the sheave like I did(mine looked like I had a clover leaf cut out of the middle) I went to The Home Depot and found that a patio door (slidder) wheel was the same size as my sheave and it has a bearing in it that the OEM did not.

Another option would be to cut off the old block and attach the new one with a shackle.

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

Or splice up a loop out of dyneema and luggage tag it on there. I trust Dyneema more than a shackle in a scenario like that.

Since the jib is what tensions the boat this might be worth getting reswagged but by a rigging shop then you might want to compare that cost to just buying the whole assembly for $72.

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Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

I've been using the Aussie halyard so long, I've forgotten the details of that block. How is the thimble on the wire halyard connected to the block? A rolled pin? If so, and if it's 1/4 inch, couldn't it be drilled out and replaced with a clevis pin (like the connections on the other block that attaches to the pigtail)? I'd vote for that over reswaging, personally.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

I think your correct! Why would'nt Hobie just sell it that way since its a replacement part they could charge a little extra for the clevis and time it would save as I mentioned everyone I know that has bought the block has got home with it only to figure out they are not going to be installing it as is.

There is one for the suggestion box! Lol!

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Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

I think the stock rolled pin/swage set-up is best because it avoids the use of cotter pins that can snag/fail/pull out. Such connections, especially the ones that hold the mast up, are a constant concern to me.

Just curious, why are people replacing this block, anyway? Because the sheave is busted? Is there actually supposed to be a sheave in there? If so, then it was long gone on every one I've ever seen and we just did without!

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

Rattle n hum.
My sheave looked like OEM from 1973, after one n a half seasons on the water I took the block apart to see why it was so hard to top my jib out. when I pulled the sheave out of the block it had elongated the center hole and then proceeded to make two more just like it.. end effect was a Mickey mouse hat where the pin was suposeed to be. so I looked around and found the wheel @ Home Depot.
The original sheave that was in there was brass.

nwsalr: I think you're refeffering to the Block Assy (20240001) attached to the upper forestay that the wire portion of the halyard goes through. (I, too, have replaced that sheave.) However, I think fa1321tx is talking about the Jib Downhaul Block (11070000) between the wire and rope portions of the halyard. If I'm mistaken, then all I've posted on the subject should be disregarded.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

oohps!! my bad