which parts fit?

So it looks like I may upgrade to the 16 from my 14t

I am going to look at one tonight, The price is really good almost to good but the guy only sailed it once last year and is paying to store it so he really wants to get rid of it.

My 14 is in mint condition, My question is which parts would I be able to move to the 16?

I imagine at the price of the 16 it may have issues but I am going into it thinking if the hulls, sails and mast are in good shape then I'll be in good shape.

Figure I will have to buy new rigging as I did with my 14 just to be safe but what parts would I just be able to swap?

Not too much transfers, even a Hot Stick is a different length. The rudders are the same, though I think the attachment holes are in different locations. Some of the other rudder components are the same. The roller furler is the same. Main sheet blocks could work if you had updated to a 6:1. Sheet lengths will be too short. AH yes, the drain plugs.

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

the furler is transferable? what would that take? I was under the impression that the jib was battened on the 16? if I put the furler systm on the 16 would I be able to use my jib from my 14? That would be awesome

Earlier H16 had fixed, battened jibs, but the newer ones had roller furling. The furler is the same for the H14, H16, H17Sport, and I think the H18. Just unpin the furler from the bridles of the H14 and attach to those of the H16 (you may need new bridles if the current ones have standard swaged loops instead of hydraulic swage on furler end). If the H16 has the old style fixed jib, you will also need a upper forestay pigtail with swivel, and shorten the current forstay and devise a way to attach the leading edge of the jib to it (sew?) and add a jam cleat to the front cross bar tor the furler line.

Fastcat you just made my day!!!! my biggest concern with getting the 16 was that when single handing I wouldnt be able to furl the jib, now I am super excited about going to get this boat

Thanks

You really need to stop giving advice on boats you're unfamiliar with (like the pylon sleeve thing in the other thread).

On a 14T, the tiller extension is the same length as a 16 (14T has a trapeze).

Rudders and castings are the same. Rudders are drilled the same. The only other rudder system components that are the same are the tiller crossbar connectors.

A stock 16 does not have a roller furler. Only if it has an aftermarket roller-furling jib.

6:1 mainsheet will work on both boats. Stock 14 mainsheet (with the fiddle block) is too tall, the line's too short and not strong enough for the 16.

There's really not much else that's transferable from one to the other.

Wrong again. The 16 has NEVER come stock with a roller furling jib - only aftermarket roller furling jibs exist.

Mbounds - ditto

Not being a racer, I guess I'm not up on what is stock and what is not. Got me on that. Niether the less a roller furler on a 16, and I've seen several, is a good upgrade. Unless of course U R a "racer".

The 16 doesn't sail well at all without the jib. If someone were serious about depowering, I would suggest reefing the main first.

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Sail Revolution
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It's not a matter of being a racer - it's a matter of being familiar with what comes on the boat from the factory.

If you're "not up on what is stock and what it not," then don't give advice on what may or may not be on a used boat. Roller furling jibs on 16s are not all that common.

Turns out jib furlers for the H16 are only offered by Hobie Europe as an option, not by Hobie USA (go figure). I bought my H16 in 1983 (it was a 1979) and owned it till 2002. I modified it for roller furling in the late 80’s. Unlike others, I found jib furling in high wind situations (which I sail often) to be better than reefing the main for many reasons: you can furl and unfurl easily on the water (reefing the main is very difficult while sailing); I could drive the boat harder off the wind (a reefed main with a jib puts too much power up front just when you do not want it there); it pointed well enough without a jib (I could power-up the main more though you might not point as well as a reef/jib combination); it is easier for a soloer to work one sail in a blow than 2. On the down side tacking was more difficult (though I found if you unfurl the jib just a little and cleat the sheets centered, the slight windage it developed would help get the bows through irons).

Mbounds - Richard Nixon was a Dick due to his given name, what is your excuse.

To be clear... Furling systems for the H16 jib have been an option on a new or used boat in the USA for decades. We use the H18 furler version (it is the same as used on the 14T, 17 Sport, H20 Furler Kit, H21SE, H21SC). We also offered one from Harken in past years.

Although, Mr. Bounds is quite correct. They are rarely sold by us, so I'd think it is fair to say... not many are used. Likely the biggest hassle is that once you set up the furler system... the only way to take the jib down is to step the mast down. Or you have to hoist a jib cover to protect the jib.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

I have a furler and a jib and I don't have to step the mast to take down my jib. Is that because my jib has a zipper?

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ALLEY CAT 1984 RED LINE HOBIE 18 MAGNUM
Sail # 10505 or 277