Inspection port replacement/leak questions

Ok so my port hull is taking on some water so I was thinking about upgrading the ports with the newer 6" screw in type. I also was considering adding 4" ports behind the rear crossbar to help the boat dry out since I never seem to get all the water out when I tilt it to drain. Do the 4" ports need to be concaved or flat?

I have a big event this weekend so I do not like to make any changes before that so for now is there a way to seal the old ones up better? I plan on doing a leak check this week by blowing some air with a shop vac into the hulls and spraying soapy bubbles in the dagger wells and around the ports where else should I look for leaks?

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Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

1984 Hobie 18, I would definitely check up under the hull flange where the crossbars bolt up, both the outboard and inboard bolts. If it's a red glue boat, it could be cracked up under there and water sprays directly up into the cracks filling the boat with a lot of water. Otherwise spray every thru-hull fitting with soapy water and all along the hull/deck seam.

You don't even know if your current access port is the source of the leak without doing a pressure/bubble test. If they're the old pop-out lids, then they will definitely leak at the rope holes, but it shouldn't be a major source of leaking unless conditions are really severe. You can always pull the ports off and re-silicone them, or just use duct tape in a pinch. Or just carry a sponge to get the water out between races.

Inspection ports behind the rear crossbar should be concaved to help match the curvature of the deck.

sm

Dare I ask? Thanks for the info!

_________________
Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

Here's a link to a pic of the red hull Coleman so you can ID yours.

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=12641&hilit=coleman+hulls&start=15

I think this is what you were asking for.....

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1984 Hobie 18

Oh you guys have multiple terms for the same thing I guess as I have heard of a H18 Redline and Im pretty sure mine is not but I will check it again.

_________________
Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

I remember seeing a post by Matt M, where he talked about using oil, (as in olive oil), to lubricate/seal the threads of the lids of the porthole covers.
I've never tried it, and may this year.

What we do is to park our H18's and REMOVE the porthole covers so that the boats will dry out. You're right, tilting only gets 96% of the water out.

SRM always gives good advice - go for the bubble test and see. Daggerboard trunks are another whole story.

Club Opening Day this Saturday, April 16...can't wait.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Another option when venting the hull. Go to the FAQ, look at the winterizing section and look at the screw in port vent. They are mine and I use them year round. I remove them and screw in the flat lid and go sailing. Remember a dry boat is a happy boat.

_________________
1989 Hobie 18 Worlds Boat, Magnum Wings & Spinnaker
1987 Hobie Holder 20 #273

dale.vanlopik"at"att"dot"net

The other most common place I find leaks in Older Hobie 18's is at the rear of the top of the daggerboard trunk. It's a bit of a biatch to get it sealed up, but well worth the effort.

Copied from a reply to another post regarding ports

DO NOT try and put a 6" port anywhere on the boat except where the factory puts it. (Don't ask me how I know)

DO NOT try to put a port without a contoured ring ANYWHERE on the deck of a Hobie 18.

a 5" port with the contoured ring will work fairly well behind the rear crossbar if you feel like you need one that big.

the 4" port with the contoured ring fits the curve of the deck best and gives you plenty of access for almost anything including putting in reinforcement.

Just do your work before you install the ring.

When installing ports behind the rear crossbar I locate the leading edge of the ring about 6 to 8 inches behind the rear edge of the rear crossbar.

Any closer I worry about compromising the integrity of the deck strength @ the cross bar. Any further back, and matching the contour of the ring to the contour of the deck becomes problematic. Matching the contour is even more problematic with the 5" port.

Last but not least, if you aren't sure what size you want to put in, start with a 4" port. If you need the bigger port, you can always cut a bigger hole. If you start with the 5" port, you are stuck with that size even if you don't like it.

Stephen

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If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

Thanks Stephen I didnt really check that area. I blew air into the hulls and soaked with soapy water there is definately leaks under the front crossbar I get bubbles from around the anchor plates on both side inner & outer whats the best way to seal up this area? I recaulked around the pop in ports and put new rope in them do you think replacing the oring would help. I just do not want to replace the port at the moment in case something goes wrong I do not want to miss a day of sailing so hopefully they will hold up over the summer.

_________________
Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

Floyd,

Given that sailing season is now, if the amount of water you are taking on is not excessive, I'd just wait on most of your "repairs" until the end of the season.

Just check and drain the hulls a time or two as necessary when you are spending a long day on the water.

If it were my boat, at the end of the season, I'd break it down, add some glass and resin inside the hulls where the top of the hull joins the bottom of the hull underneath the rear cross bar area. There is an article that details the procedure elsewhere on this forum. I'm sure someone else reading this post can point you to the link.

Once again, if I were doing it, as you are breaking it down, I'd remove the old "pop out ports" to give you more room to work as you are doing the "inside the hull" repairs/strengthening, and when you are done with all the inside work, then install the new screw in style ports.

You will probably see some minor cracks in the gel coat under the lip, and I'd suggest filling those cracks with resin as you are doing the other glass work, and then, once the resin has cured, go over those area's with a thin layer of silicone sealer to be sure that the leaks are eliminated.

As we discussed when I was down there, "humidity" is the enemy of the foam core, so the dryer you can keep the boat when you are not sailing it the better. Be sure and pop out the ports when you are done sailing, so that any water left in the hull can evaporate out without impregnating the foam.

If the boat is stored outside, I've seen people screw a frisbee to a 2X4, and set it over the hole where the port normally goes. Make the 2X4 long enough to hold the frisbee about an inch off of the hull, and hopefully the weight of the wood will keep the frisbee from blowing away.

This keeps rain out while allowing air flow in and out so that the humidity can escape as the residual water in the hull evaporates in the heat of the day.

If your boat is stored in a garage or a carport, that step may not be necessary.

Adding the 4" port behind the rear cross bar creates air flow thru the hull which further discourages humidity inside the hull, and makes it very easy to sponge out the last little bit of water that doesn't want to drain out, and thus, hopefully, keep your hulls dry and healthy.

Hopefully, some of the above will help you enjoy your boat thru the rest of this season and correct all of your leaks during the off season.

Stephen

_________________
If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

I took on atleast a gallon in 1.5 hours of hard sailing my concern is the dash took some people 6 hours last year so if there is a couple of tricks to band aid it till the looong seasons up (November in Houston) or atleast stop the bigger leaks it would seem like the ones under the cross bar would be the biggest concern can I just caulk it them as a temporary solution? I will also check that area of the dagger well you mentioned. What a sweet ride though!! I will take the time in the off season to fix my girl correctly!!

_________________
Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

sure, some silicone caulk in the area's under the lips where you are getting bubbles would be a good start.

a gallon in 1 1/2 hours of hard sailing really isn't that much.

and if you think about it, if people were taking 6 + hours to do the dash, it probably wasn't blowing all that hard ???

If its blowing hard, you probably won't take that long to get from point A to point B ? ? ?

Since I haven't sailed it myself, I don't have much of a frame of reference. So if I have made incorrect assumptions, I apologize.

I really hope to be able to do that one of these years soon.

Stephen

_________________
If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, maybe it is time to water your own lawn.

What is the source of the leaking at the crossbar anchors? Is it just that the silicone has worn out, or is the boat leaking thru cracks?

If it's just that the silicone is old and leaking, then yes you can just squirt some more silicone in to fix the leak. If the hull is actually cracked, then you need to repair the cracks with fiberglass and resin as this is a structural issue. Again, boats from this era are prone to cracking at the crossbar anchors. This should be repaired before the boat is sailed.

sm

Stephen your are correct it was one of the lightest wind days I have seen in 3 years of sailing surfside. When I bough the boat I noticed some small stress cracks on the starboard deck by the crossbar and then I found that the crossbar was not on very tight on that side so I figure the cracks were from it flexing from not being on tight but the port side takes on more water and the dash is a reach straight down the coast so the port hull will be getting submerged the most. Im not freaking out about it but would like to try and reduce the leaks probably just caulk around the anchor plates, replace orings & check the back top of the dagger wells for now.

_________________
Floyd
00 Tiger
http://www.HobieFleet33.com
10 Mile Surfside, Texas
Join us on our Facebook group: Surfside Sailing

Remember that Hobie has a small hole in the hull under the front crossbar to "vent" the pressure or vacuum that can build up due to heat and cold. In my opinion the best way to pressure check the hull is to remove the hulls from the crossbars. Set each hull on sawhorses and do the pressure check. You will most likely have to remove the hulls from the crossbars for easier repairs anyway. Do not fill in the vent holes Hobie put in there! (don't ask me how I know).

_________________
1989 Hobie 18 Worlds Boat, Magnum Wings & Spinnaker
1987 Hobie Holder 20 #273

dale.vanlopik"at"att"dot"net