Broken Gudgeon Screws

I have some left over West Marine product to fill the over-oversized screw hole. I will then drill/tap for 12-24 screw. What would you use to insert the epoxy mix into the existing oversized hole, prior to drill/tap.

I will drill/tap the two new holes in the lower part of the replacement gudgeons for 12-24 screws.

For the existing loose screws, I will drill/tap for 1/4-20 screws to allow tight screw installs.

As far as the lineup goes for the six holes that only roughly line up, I followed the instructions that came with the replacement one piece gudgeons and oversized the holes on the gudgeons to allow use of the existing holes in the hull.

Sound like a plan?

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ScotsSailor
1986 Hobie 16

Yup. Make sure you use the T handle when you tap . Mix the epoxy like peanut butter and use a drywall taping knife .

If one were to install the 4" hatch cover from Hobie, to use as inspection port, with a view toward potential use of lock nuts on gudgeon screws, where would they be best located?

In short, anyone that has done this, please share your thoughts on location - did you max out by putting them as far back as possible, or did you place them to allow for some space between edge of the hatch hole and the side of the hulls? If it is wise to leave some space, how much? How thick are the hulls in this area?

Any specifics on a H16, as regards any measurements/placement, may be helpful.

Thanks!!

Update: 5-15-11, 5:55pm EST, installed with outer lip of hatch about 7' from end of hull. Worked out nicely.

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ScotsSailor
1986 Hobie 16

I had to grind a few small areas of the lower casting where the gudgeon screws prevented the rudder from rotating fully within the gudgeons (now the gudgeon itself serves to limit rotation to about 100 degrees - 50 degrees to port and starboard). Does that rudder rotation seem appropriate?

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ScotsSailor
1986 Hobie 16

I realize this is an old thread but I'm kind of in the same situation so figured I would add to it. I'm planning on going the 4" inspection port route to through-bolt my gudgeon screws. I bought a 4" flat Viking inspection port not realizing there are also curved ones to fit the curvature of the deck. I'm just wondering if the flat inspection port would work just forward of the transom or should I get a curved one? My boat is nowhere near me at the moment and I can't picture the shape of the deck off the top of my head on a '88 Hobie 16

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Andrew
'88 Hobie 16

With regards to the rear access ports, I would recommend using the curved ones and staying with the 4" port.

I have big hands, so I decided to cut the holes for the 4" ports, do all my work on thru bolting the gudgeons before I installed the 4" plastic ports. The hole that you will cut thru the top of the hull will be ~ 4½" in diameter vs ~ 3½" for the inside opening of the 4" port.

Bill Mattson wrote a good article in On The Wire entitled: Do-It-Yourself: Installing Deck Ports

http://www.thebeachcats.com/news/29/ins%20...%20eck-ports/

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL