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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 3:13 pm 
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Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
I just measured mine corner to corner, 111.5" in one direction, 115" in the other - Holy Mackerel! I was shocked.

With it that out of whack I'm wondering if the method prescribed above is the only way to square her up again.

What else can be done short of complete disassembly and drilling out rivets, re-riveting, gluing back together, etc.?

Please tell me this isn't major surgery.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:32 am 
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Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
UPDATE

I installed this system to square up my boat which was ~4" out of square. I used the 1/4" cable and fittings that work great. I could have gone smaller but that's the kind of guy I am, I'll over design in these cases. The weight difference isn't that great, a pound or two, and I just like knowing it'll survive a hurricane!

However, now I have to find a way to cover it. I have a pool noodle that I'll cut to fit and zip tie in place, but I'm not sure the hole that runs through the middle is large enough to fit over the hardware neatly. I know I'll have to force it in some places which may end up being impossible and could mangle it to the point that it doesn't serve the purpose. Depending how that goes I may end up down sizing it.

Anyway, I thought some folks might want to see it in progress.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3 ... 1104991756

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3 ... 1104991756

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:53 am 
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Location: Latrobe, PA, USA *** Show YOUR Location - Edit Profile ! ***
Can't see those pics- not sure if Facebook works very conveniently for photo sharing... maybe just a temporary glitch.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 8:11 am 
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Location: Roswell, GA - USA
It seems to me that you could use a temporary block and tackle to square up the hulls with the tramp loose and then tighten up the tramps to lock it all in place. I think a tight tramp will hold things together square if it starts square. Just my 2 cents.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:14 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
The issue with these wires was safety... not comfort. You can get hung up on them during a capsize or trapped between the wires and the tramp.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 12:35 pm 
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Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
Thanks for the input. I do have mixed feelings about using them. I"ll probably experiment with them on and off and see how it goes.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 6:36 am 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
Skip the wire, and go with dyneema.

Another thing, are you squaring a parrelelogram, or a trapezoid?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:06 pm 
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Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
Hey Karl and thanks,

I'll look into the dyneema, hopefully a local boat shop will have some. If so I should be able to reduce the size of the hardware that is currently required for the 1/4" cable.

I'm not 100% certain about the parallelogram/trapezoid question b/c I'm not 100% certain that the front and rear cross bars are the identical length.

I always assumed they were, so I'd have to say a parallelogram. Regardless, even if it were a trapezoid the corner-to-corner distances should be the same, but I can't imagine it's a trapezoid.

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