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 Post subject: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 10:41 am 
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Joined: Wed May 11, 2011 7:31 pm
Posts: 6
Thinking about buying the new Lowrance Elite-4 DSI which looks perfect for kayaks, but the one thing I am unsure about it how to mount the transducer. It comes with a skimmer transducer which looks like it isn't ideal for mounting in the hull and buying the Lowrance scupper mounts won't work for me because I use the scuppers for wheels. Any suggestions?


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 Post subject: Re: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:55 pm
Posts: 93
Location: New Gretna, New Jersey
The Lowrance Elite-4 DS is a very advanced scaning sonar. The transducer is actually an array with multiple tranducers. Each signal unit (transducer) sends a signal in sequence and then the returns are processed (assembled) into an image on the screen. To work properly the skimmer unit must be in the water.

Do you "need" all that power or do you just "want" this beautiful hi tech unit?

I have seen guys with all kinds of booms and brackets hanging over the side with all the associated cables and wires. Research ship style. Always looked to be a mess inviting tangles and snags.

I have two suggestions. (1) If you need this unit, consider through hull permanent mounting. It is doable without a leaking hull.

(2) If your heart is not set on this unit, consider an inexpensive humminbird with a flat dual beam and use plumbers putty to "shoot throught the hull.

I have used many types of commercial sonar and they all gave me certain advantages in particular harvest situations. Now that I fish neashore waters in an Outback I need only a basic bottom reading and water temp as my third navigational refrence. Still, with all this technology being reduced in size and power requirments.....I kinda want to try one. When I do...I'm going through hull.
I don't know anybody who has done it in Kayaks yet. I've put them through hull on the big boats with hand carved inside and outside blocks and fairngs....lasted for years without leaking.

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SpinfisherBob
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 Post subject: Re: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 11, 2011 7:31 pm
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Ya the reason I don't want to go with just the basic is because the new Elite-4 is so much smaller and yet does so much. IF you say that it really is doable without a leaking hull, how do I go about doing this?


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 Post subject: Re: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:55 pm
Posts: 93
Location: New Gretna, New Jersey
Through hull mounting is a skill job.

1) Location....where to mount it so we won't be draging it on the ground....My Outback has a gull wing hull....I was thinking in the hollow..midship.
2) carve an outside streamlined fairing block that will match the hull curvature and accept and hold the tranducer flush with the new fairing. The fairing block would be bigger by an inch on both sides and a couple inches fore and aft.
3) Carve an inside backing block matching the dimensions of the outside fairing.

The blocks are then bedded and through bolted on the hull. After the blocks are set and cured the correct size hole is drilled for the transducer. Correct being just the size not to bind with expansion or void with contraction. Choice of bedding compound will be important. Flexibility over time. Block and transducer fit will be exact before bedding. Just like it grew there.

All our boats are unique so I just won't know untill I get there. Fair grain, clear medium hardness mahogany is my favorite block material. Although Starboard or another composite material might be good too.
As far as kayaks go this is all theoretical. I have installed through hull mounts on Fiberglass, wooden and steel hulls, but not on my kayaks yet.

What model kayak do you have?

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Stay Fit, Go Fish, and Have Fun
SpinfisherBob
http://www.youtube.com/user/SpinfisherBob


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 Post subject: Re: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:50 pm
Posts: 2
G'day,

It is possible to successfully mount a DSI transducer in the hull of a Hobie and have it work. There are several Kayak anglers in Australia who have done this. Here is a comprehensive guide to installing one.

http://www.akff.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=41626

Cheers,
Steve.


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 Post subject: Re: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:55 pm
Posts: 93
Location: New Gretna, New Jersey
Wow ! now I am begining to think I really do need a modern scanning sonar. I will start saving now. Beautiful images. I think the water Balloon will work, Ihad never considered the extreme fore or aft inside locations. It seems now that a dam could be fashioned, filled with water and capped...you've got me thinking laterally.

Outstanding job

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Hobie Fishing Team Rider
Stay Fit, Go Fish, and Have Fun
SpinfisherBob
http://www.youtube.com/user/SpinfisherBob


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 Post subject: Re: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:43 am 
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Joined: Tue May 04, 2010 4:01 pm
Posts: 465
User reports on the first DSI units haven't been that positive.

I was planning to buy the same unit for our Jon boat and to fish with in a Yak.

Our older son who fishes on the Delta or in the SF Bay at least 50 trips a year and is a superb fisher and sailor, told me to save my money for now and to continue to use my old Lowrance M68C combo unit. Its GPS Chart system for most waters out of date re lakes and rivers, but it still works like a charm for water depth, temp, speed and basic fish finding. The return mode for the GPS still works to get us back if necessary.

On our last fishing trip my son and his ten old son showed me how to really use the M68C to find fish. It was the Friday after Thanksgiving and as usual a lot of fishermen were running up and down the river in boats, driving the noise sensitive stripers away.

They don't use the fish id menu on the M68C. They have the fishfinder screen as the only page, they use the old fish blips to find fish. My son was at the front of the Jon boat with the front electric motor. His son was in the back of the Jon boat looking for the fish blips on my M68C. The little guy would find the fish, often below bridges or under trees. Then, he would tell his dad where the fish were, where to move the boat and where to to cast his fly, how deep and how far out. He put his Dad onto several fish with his specific directions on how to manuever to get his Dad to cast the flies to engage the Stripers. He, also, eliminated wasting a lot of time casting in the usual areas when he found no fish.

Since, then I have bought the portable transponder and a couple of small 12 volt batteries to power my M68 for Yak use. I will have the transponder temporarily mounted to shoot through the hull and not worry about how to mount it under/outside or to use a scupper. It is doubtful that I would use up the power from the little battery in even a long day, and the M68 uses very little power.

Hobie sells this unit and a kit to glue the transponder to the hull to shoot through the hull and a small sealed/self contained battery.

wareagle wrote:
Thinking about buying the new Lowrance Elite-4 DSI which looks perfect for kayaks, but the one thing I am unsure about it how to mount the transducer. It comes with a skimmer transducer which looks like it isn't ideal for mounting in the hull and buying the Lowrance scupper mounts won't work for me because I use the scuppers for wheels. Any suggestions?

_________________
2009 Oasis
2012 Freedom Hawk Pathfinder


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 Post subject: Re: Elite-4 DSI
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 679
Location: Auckland NZ
Hi Grampa,

I was really interested to hear about the way your son/grandson are using the M68C... I have a slightly different version: mine is an Eagle Cuda SMap - basically the same product under a different brand but greyscale not colour and with a "world map" in the GPS as opposed to the US map version that you've got...

I really could do with a lesson on how to use the thing properly because I am pretty sure I cold be getting a whole lot more out of it wrt its fishfinding capabilities !

I don't know if it is the way I have it set up (shooting through hull in a bed of silicone sealant) but it doesn't seem to be very sensitive - except that I know it can pick up my lure descending through the water column so I know that it does pick up even small echoes !

It detects schools of baitfish - but it doesn't seem to show the larger fish lurking around them (which I know are there) - except that it does sometimes.

Could it be that the beam angle is so narrow that I am only getting part of the picture ?

Or do I have the sensitivity set too high?

...or maybe I just need a smart kid in the bow working the thang for me ?!

As it is, the way I would describe its working is as follows: "it doesn't tell me where the fish are but it does tell me that I am not going to catch any here".

Any thoughts anyone ?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:27 am 
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Joined: Tue May 04, 2010 4:01 pm
Posts: 465
The transducer is mounted on the rear of the Jon boat on the port side about 1.5' from the motor shaft. It sits about 2 inches deep under the boat.

We set the reading on the basic fish finding reading and don't use the fish id nor the GPS.

The grandson sits by the unit and watches. He and his Dad are good about figuring out where the stripers may be. This past trip the fish were under bridges or just below or above the bridges or along the shore where trees hang over the water. This behavior of hiding from the sight of Osperies and eagles enabled them to become adults.

My son gets on the bow of the boat, when we/they approach possible targets. He is using an electric motor controlled from the bow. He has his fly line striped into a stripping bucket and is ready to cast a few feet to 80-90+. Even though he can't see the fish, their goal is to put him in a casting situation upstream to cast to a spot marked by the GS. Getting upstream in a tidal river can get a little skitzy at times during a strong and high incoming tide. This past trip, the incoming tide was so strong, we got downstream from the targets and our flies/lure went up stream with the tide into the eyes and mouths of the stripers. Just before the tidal change, my son missed a good fish. As he got ready to cast again, the tide had changed and he went upstream and hooked a nice fish, maybe the same fish.

Often my son and GS will drift down stream, under a bridge and to the other side, if the tide is coming in without the electric motor going. If the tide is going out, they head upstream.

Then the math geniuses, son is a construction project manager and GS is in the Math Olympics, go into action. As they pass under the bridge, the GS will call out the water depth, then if he sights fish, he calls out the # of fish and depth and water depth. This is critical if the water is 10' deep and the fishing are holdin 5', if your fly or lure in the winter time is above or below them, will not chase it. The same applies to lake water if the water temp is 80+.

Sometimes my son will drop his fly into the water as they drift by and get it to the depth of the fish. The colder the water temp, the less effective this technique is, more on water temp impacts below.

Then if nothing happens, he will slowly manuever the boat about 30-40' away and cast and work the fly in various search patterns. If the fish are skittish and other fishers have passed over, he will go 70-90' and use the electric motor to hold while he double hauls or sometimes will slowly drop the anchor, to cast from the pivoting with the anchor. If the fish are skittish, he might wait 5-10 minutes before casting.

In water that is on our cold side, we move the flies very slowly, about 6 inches per strip and only 1-2 inches per pull on each strip. Or if the fish are holding down stream, and we basically know where they are, we will try to basically put the fly into their mouth and then bring it out and twitch it about a foot away.

My Lowrance M68c has a lot of pages, and we use the basic one without the fish id. We get the depth with varies constantly in our river, we try to avoid moss/algae/green crud which is floating mid depth unless the fish are under the crud. Then we back away and let our sinking tips work under the crud.

As noted water temp is critical a couple of degrees over 60 the fish will chase a fly. A few degrees under 60, you have to put the fly in their face and do a 6 inch strip return with the line at an inch per pull with about 5-10 seconds between each pull.

Downstream, where the river can really haul in an area of flood control work. We have used my fishing buddy fish finder to target the fish along the sides of the river and gone upstream come down stream about 40' from the side working our flies like fishing for steelhead. When the tide starts to recede, the fish get into the mainstream to catch their meals getting swept from the flood control flats. We use the finder to find the fish and anchor about 40-50' away to be able to cast into the small mouth where the flats empty into the river.

I will be working on the technique, my son and GS use with my new Pathfinder and trying the transducer in the bottom of the yak or on the back with a suction cup. I ordered the suction cup transducer holder, a new transducer and the power cables so I can rig up a yak and leave the same gear on our Jon boat.

If you can see your lure, your sonar is probably working well. Often we can see our flies and my GS uses lures and we can see them.

Again, we have it set on basic power and with no fish id on. We look for the inverted blobby V's which are usually fish. The map screen is off and only the sonar screen is lit up.

This technique works in our local lakes with bass and species besides trout. We find the fish. Then, we get about 40-50' away up wind, anchor or use an electric motor to hold us and cast up to and then into where we saw the fish holding on the finder. If the area doesn't have other fishers or yaks, a 10-15 minute wait after positioning your self away from the fish can be very effective.

The best way to describe this technique is the fish finder is like a guide who finds the fish and then puts you into position to cast where the fish hopefully are still holding. If you are fishing tidal water, the goal is to have your lure going with the tide into the face or mouth of the fish. If you are lake fishing, find the fish with the fish finder, get up wind as the food of the bass/fish will get blown away, down wind, hopefully into the mouths of the fish you are after.

Lowrance is good re talking to or texting on line with their people. Eagle may have the same service. Tell them that if they can help you, you will post how to do it on the Hobie site. :mrgreen:

stobbo wrote:
Hi Grampa,

I was really interested to hear about the way your son/grandson are using the M68C... I have a slightly different version: mine is an Eagle Cuda SMap - basically the same product under a different brand but greyscale not colour and with a "world map" in the GPS as opposed to the US map version that you've got...

I really could do with a lesson on how to use the thing properly because I am pretty sure I cold be getting a whole lot more out of it wrt its fishfinding capabilities !

I don't know if it is the way I have it set up (shooting through hull in a bed of silicone sealant) but it doesn't seem to be very sensitive - except that I know it can pick up my lure descending through the water column so I know that it does pick up even small echoes !

It detects schools of baitfish - but it doesn't seem to show the larger fish lurking around them (which I know are there) - except that it does sometimes.

Could it be that the beam angle is so narrow that I am only getting part of the picture ?

Or do I have the sensitivity set too high?

...or maybe I just need a smart kid in the bow working the thang for me ?!

As it is, the way I would describe its working is as follows: "it doesn't tell me where the fish are but it does tell me that I am not going to catch any here".

Any thoughts anyone ?

_________________
2009 Oasis
2012 Freedom Hawk Pathfinder


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