Transporting PA12 in truck bed

I'm debating on buying a bed extender for transport. I really don't believe I need one, but wanted to get some thoughts first.I have a tool box in the back of my truck and found it fairly easy to slide the hobie on top and let it rest on top of the closed tail gate. A few questions....

1. Any issues transporting like this without compromising the hull?
2. Would anyone load the opposite way with the back of the boat against the truck window?
3. Any issues leaving the seat in? I've been told "If it's important & removable.... Take it out". But I've ran the straps though the seat and also bungeed it down. Does anyone else leave their seat in?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it were me, I would never transport on the edge of the tailgate. The way it's loaded, you are supporting about 90% of the weight of the hull by what looks like about 3 inches, at most, of the edge of the tailgate. Even if you tighten down the straps so that the boat and the tailgate won't separate when the truck hits a bump during transport, you still have half the boat cantilevering on just three inches of support.
Secondly, you're setting up for a possible broken rear window.

Suggestion: why not load with the tailgate down, and put the yak in cat-a-corner keeping the rear outside of the yak lined up with the side of your truck. It will give you more support on at least half of the yak or better, even with the tool box in the bed. And when your truck hits a bump it won't be like hitting the bottom and middle of the hull with a baseball bat.

I used to transport my PA12 in the bed of my truck too. I don't have a tool box, but my truck has a short bed. Loaded how I described above, I have gone over 500 miles without incident. I now use a trailer. The trailer was bought to make it easier on me to launch and retrieve. I'm too old, too short, and suffer with too much pain to hassle with putting a yak in the bed of my 4x4 by myself. I almost always fish alone because I don't know anyone close to my house that fishes in a kayak. For me a trailer was the only solution.

Look at your setup again, and think it out. You pictures just don't show a very good solution as far as I'm concerned.
Hope I have helped.

As far as the seat goes, I have always put mine in the truck. I have a Crew Cab, like you, and it's a non-issue. For me, they cost too much to risk any damage from the wind. Besides it reduces drag on the truck.

_________________
Paul
2013 Pro-Angler 12 Olive

Heroes don't wear capes; they wear dog tags

I agree with PJS, There is way too much weight on the hull at the tailgate. That is going to deform your hull.
If you can't transport in in the truck bed I would get a bed extender and then rig it up so that you have some 2" PVC pipes from the bed extender to the tool box and put the PA on top of the PVC runners.
Also do a search in this forum about the overhang behind he truck. There are some regulation about how much overhang you can have and there is requirements for a red flag and tail lights if driving at night. It might save you a ticket

I think you already knew the answer...before you asked the question!

That's just not safe for you, the truck, the kayak or anyone around you.

You have options...good luck figuring it out.

Get someone who can weld to make a support to take the weight off of the hull.

Here is what I am thinking would work for you. You most likely have a 2" receiver hitch. I would come out of the receiver hitch about 18 inches and then right angle up to about a foot below the kayak. From there branch off two 45 degree branches up to the hull. Cap those branches with round tubing. Pad that tubing with pool noodles. Weld on a few rings for tie down spots.

Let me see if I can't draw it in paint. I am at work in Afghanistan, so my options are limited.

I am not in a spot to upload very well, see if you can click the link.




https://plus.google.com/photos/10490647 ... 2899736497

I would be able to build that if I were at home.

cheapest ... but not easiest or safest is to buy the extender that slides in your hitch (about $50), square it up so it's same level as top of tailgate and tool box. Run two pieces of PVC from the extender, across tg to top of tool box and align them where they fit the channels in the PA hull.... that will keep you from crushing the hull enough to leave an indentation. Run SOME kind of strap from end of PA against window AWAY from window to keep the boat from sliding or bouncing against window... I put at least 4-6 inches of open air there. then strap her down as usual...

I've posted this before... but I have had a number of friends who bought PA's and after a few launches and recoveries have lost their enthusiasm for the boat (a little more each time) because of it's weight and difficulty in loading / unloading. They sell the poor thing at a pretty good loss... so they're out $300-$400.... look around and see if you can find a small trailer for a kayak or even small cargo trailer... coupla hundred dollars (or less)... good luck...

Check out the bed extender at Harbor Freight Tools. You will probably have to put an extension on the upright

Another option if you have the funding is the Boonedox T-bone. There is a single and tandem version ($174.95/$189.95 respectively). I have used one similar to the bed extender at Harbor Freight / Northern Tool for about 10 years. It works great but it is heavy. On the plus side it is half the cost of the T-bone. The T-bone is aircraft aluminum and about 1/2 the weight of the bed extender. The other advantage to the T-bone is that it is curved at bottom and eliminates bottoming out on steep departure angles.


[img][URL=http://s29.photobucket.com/user/kblack16/media/t-bone_zps28d77621.jpg.html][IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c287/kblack16/t-bone_zps28d77621.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/img]

_________________
Keith Black

2014 PA 14 Olive
2014 WS Ride 115x Camo

I really don't understand why you don't just put the tailgate down and use the truck bead. It gives you support all around the bottom ........ Gives 2 1/2 feet more support and is easier to load and the straps don't have to be as tight ....... Add an extender and you have the ultimate support and
easiest loading.

I just put the tailgate down slide it in secure it and go I do put a piece of pool noodle around the front handle so it doesnt get messed up on the bed bulkhead.

_________________
2014 Pro Angler 14 Dune
2013 Outback Papaya

Military Police, USAR SFC

Broward County Florida

I agree that it can't be good for the hull to be sitting on the tailgate and I'm sure the cost of a quality bed extender would be eclipsed by the price of replacing the Chevy's back window.

I use a modified Harbor Freight bed extender on my Sport-Trac with it's 4.5' bed to carry my PA12, but have transported 15' (way too long) kayaks with no problem (other than dirty looks from FHP ).

The bed extender makes loading/unloading a breeze (with scupper cart in place) and is easier & more practical than using a trailer (IMO) due to the fact that I can park in almost any spot that the truck alone could park in.

My extender has been modified with LED taillights, marine bunk and the long bar was cut, angled up and welded as to eliminate dragging on inclines.

I've used it for several years and have been happy with it, but hope to have a BoonDox T-Bone within the year.





BoonDox T-Bone......
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzM1wbWv1zw[/youtube]

_________________

~YakAttack Pro Staff ~ LIVE Watersports Pro Staff ~ RAM Pro Staff ~ Power-Pole Micro Pro Staff ~ Columbia Pro Team~

I have the harbor freight bed extender as well but I haven't used it as of yet
On a longer trip over couple hours I think I would use it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
2014 Pro Angler 14 Dune
2013 Outback Papaya

Military Police, USAR SFC

Broward County Florida

I have used it for 10 minute to 15 hour trips and the PA has been stored in place for 10 days while in the Keys.....makes it much easier to load/unload and boat doesn't touch the truck. All loading weight/stress is on marine-style carpeted bunk crossbar and when once in place, the bow sits on a roof style foam block.

_________________

~YakAttack Pro Staff ~ LIVE Watersports Pro Staff ~ RAM Pro Staff ~ Power-Pole Micro Pro Staff ~ Columbia Pro Team~