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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 6:37 am 
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I am looking to get a dedicated setup for trolling freshwater. What is your preferred setup? I am specifically trying to figure out which action to look for in a rod. Fast or medium? Thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 10:16 am 
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Location: High Point, NC
If you're talking crankbaits, I'd look for a very fast action. Very tip oriented. This allows you to note the movement of the crankbait by watching the movement of the soft tip. If you see it deviate in the least from what you know to be correct, you've fouled a hook, picked up some grass, a leaf, etc. Plus, it keeps the hooks from tearing out/away as easily on a strike.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 11:21 am 
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don't use a Cf rod, use a glass rod or at least a mixture of materials...also depends upon the weight of your lures to me...for small fish like Kokanee I use a L to ML rod with fast action


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 9:17 pm 
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Well that totally depends how you troll. Flatline, dipsy divers, torpedo weights, planer boards, etc will all load the rod differently. Best thing to do is to try trolling with the rods you have, figure out what you like and see how the rods perform and where you want to from there.

I troll quite a bit for bass, pike and King salmon and have yet to buy dedicated rods as my medium, fast action rods seem to be doing fine. Until you get into things its hard to know exactly what will be best for you.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 6:44 am 
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I use my 10 year old, Lamiglas 8' 6" Kenai Pro, 2 piece rod with a Abu Garcia 6501 C3 reel wound with 17 pound test Berkley Vantage Transitions clear/gold line.
The rod is rated for 3/8 to 2 ounces and 15 to 25 pound test line.

Since I bank fish using spinners for Steelhead and Salmon in the Hood River, this combination of tackle above is the most bullet proof I have developed.

When I started kayak fishing almost 6 years ago, I decided to use the same equipment......guess what, it works great as well kayak fishing.
I down rig and top line troll and rarely miss a fish hit....although yesterday, top line trolling a F7 Flatfish, frog pattern that was 80' behind my kayak and about 10' underwater, a very hard strike removed the complete treble hook and eye screw assembly from the body of the lure.....
This was an almost new lure :o

As my son has stated many times, no one should copy my techniques kayak fishing....the proof is in the catching!
My theory is, "If it ain't broke, don't' fix it"

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 7:44 am 
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One other suggestion I have is to try to stick to shorter rods. With a 6'6" rod I can still reach the tip to free a loop or tangle without dunking the reel, with my 7'6" rod I can't.

Also a 10-15' fluoro leader will be much stiffer than braid, mono or regular fluoro and will cut down on hook fouling and make it easier to handle the line with big fish on so you're not getting cut by braid or tangles in the net. You want the leader long enough that the knot is on the spool when the fish is boat side.


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