Hobie 21SE foward tramp

I have a 1988 21SE and would like to install a foward mesh tramp. Looking for suggestion? Brad

Didn't the 21SC come with a forward tramp (and coolers!)?

Perhaps that would fit your SE. Then again, I don't know much about the 21's.

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Tim
Unofficial Fleet 72 Communications Officer and Div 4 Webmaster
http://www.hobiefleet72.org
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I think the SE and the SC were different widths, the SE being wider. So the tramp prabably would not fit across.

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Mike Hensel
'86 Hobie 18, '93 Hobie 14, '80 Hobie 14(restso in progress)
Wind in your sails, water in your shoes, great day!

I have seen the 21SC (Sports Cruiser)

WHY OH WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THAT TO A 21!!!!

I have a 21SC, and bought it because of it's ROOM and storage. It is a family boat where family and friends can go out and not sit in each others laps. Yeah, it's not a racer, but neither am I. I guess Hobie had a few hulls left over after the SE class of racing collapsed and the SC was the marketing by product. Suits me...I'm happy with the boat...even with its warts.

The SE is wider. 10 foot if I remember right, so the forward tramp wouldn't fit. Doesn't mean you couldn't use the side rails from a SC and have a custom net made, lashing it to the crossbars.

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TC

I made a front tramp for my 21SE and I really love it. There are some key issues.
The front crossbar has to be really stout, I broke two before I finally settled on a 1 1/2" dia. aluminum tube. I sealed the ends with plugs epoxied in and ss eye bolts sealed to prevent corroision from the inside. I'd have to look for the name of the tramp material maker but it's a well known outfit in Florida. They made it to my specs, use some kind of mesh, not solid material.
I simply screwed pad eyes to the inside rail of the hulls for the sides then ran a bungie along and through the grommets with small brass clips to grab the padeyes so I can remove the tramp quickly for trailering. I wrapped heavy duty bungy around the forward (boat) crossbar for the aft end of the tramp running the bungy through the grommets again. Sides and back of the tramp have grommets, I would spec stainless. The front has a tube sewn into it and the tube ends are lashed to the forwardmost hull fittings that are actually there for the chute, I use a 3:1 block setup because these carry a lot of tension.
The tramp is a good safety item and makes rigging the chute and anchoring, mooring, much easier. We love it in light winds, great place to stretch out.

Beachboy I would appreciate photos of your work and like to see the actual attachment, and how you rigged the spinnaker tackle. As you have now run a forward tramp for several years how has it held up?
My H21SE spent the first 2 years of its life racing and the last 18 as a tourist conveyance on Panama City Beach. It desperately needed and I have almost finished a complete refurbishment and am down to figuring out a crack in the forward crossmember (Hobie sold the last crossmember in inventory in 1999) and the forward tramp my wife wants. Any help would be appreciated.

Clay

The spinaker setup is actually the stock arrangement that Hobie designed for running from the forward most tangs on the bows. The tack runs off two microblocks with beckets on lines to each tang with another block and continuous line back to the forward crossbar with cam cleats. With this setup you ran run the tack back and forth accross the bows or let it rise for bow lift. A second line is attched to the cleat to reel it in from the bows to the tramp, it is also cleated off on the crossbar. There are pictures of the H21SE flying a spin in the original Hobie brochures but they mention nothing of it in the manual or parts sections. The sheets run back to blocks attached to the aft ends of the wings and do not use cleats.

I am changing , but am not done yet, to a hooter on a roller furler. I have dry run it on land and the furler (stock Hobie jib furler) works great using spyder 3mm furling line. I was fortunate to find a Calvert Hooter in good shape that fits perfectly. I am going to add cleats to the wings.

As far as the forward tramp goes I might do it differently if I were planning on loading the tramp with morer weight. I think this is what the 21SC uses but I've never seen one. Using a solid crossbar that runs from hull to hull is the best way to go. I use a floating forward bar, 2" dia (any less and it will bend, this is bar #3 for me), aluminum tube and tie to off to the jib tangs with a 3:1 block setup as these lines have to be very taut. I put SS screw eyes through the ends of the bar, double nuts (you don't want to distort the bar by compressing it) and I plugged the ends of the tube to keep the salt water out of the inside. I screwed small SS padeyes along the hull/seam on the inside every 6" to match the tramp grommets and had Sunshine make the tramp out of mesh material with grommets on the sides and aft edges, a pocket big enough for the forward bar to run through on the leading edge. The bar supports the forward edge and hefty bungee cord supports the sides through the grommets (I use small brass clips so I can easily remove it) and the bungee simply wraps around the forward cross bar for the aft end of the tramp.
I would spec SS grommets (Sunshine should have done this on their own IMHO) and open 1" netting versus mesh if I was doing it over. The forward tramp makes anchoring and mooring much easier (I don't beach the boat) and with two headsails it makes rigging work on the bows safe and secure. Also it's my wife's favorite spot to ride in low wind conditions, mine too.
I'll try to get some photos for you.

Just a thought, but the Getaway uses what looks like a boom from a 16 for the front crossbar. You could use the slugs to tie off the tramp easily too.

The weight would be an issue. I checked this weekend, it's actually a 1-1/2" diameter aluminum tube. The weight would be an issue. My 21SE boom weighs a ton, I would love to replace it with a composite unit and adopt the 21SC roller furling main feature.