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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:34 am 
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Any ideas/suggestions on what to do about this crack?

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Is there an easy way?
Should I get a friend who is good with fiberglass to do a thorough job?
Professional only?
Just buy a new hull?

I think it currently leaks a gallon or two an hour


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:44 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
It is a previous damaged pylon and rough paint job.

This damage may have been repaired from the outside, but needs an internal repair which requires adding an inspection port.

Matt Bounds did some repair articles on pylons in the Hotline, searching pylon and repair as key words...

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=54664&p=255797&hilit=pylon+repair#p255797

adding "Hotline"...

http://www.w1dm.com/projects/HOTLINE/09-09-10%20HOTLINE.pdf

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:34 am 
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Awesome, thanks again for the quick and thorough reply Matt! :)

Is there a rough ball park $$ number I should expect for this kind of repair?

Probably cheaper to just find a new hull? haha


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:28 pm 
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Actually... the internal repair is done rough and not time consuming. A rough patch on the outside and you are done. Really rough guess... $150?

You want paint or fairing... more.

I would take to a local marina repair facility. They can look at Matt B's instructions.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 4:30 pm 
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What does this mean "You want pair or fairing... more."?

Does $150 include installing a portal so you can access that area for the repair? What's a rough estimate on portal install?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 4:58 pm 
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Typo... paint.

My estimate would include a port installed, but I'm not in that business, so check with a repair company.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 5:05 pm 
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If I add a port to repair the starboard rear pylon, where should I have it installed? Forward of the pylon or in the back? How far from the pylon?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:10 am 
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I'd install it forward of the pylon about 8-10 inches away - far enough to be out of the fairing in the deck (which extends further forward than you think), but close enough to still reach everything inside.

Of course, that means you'll need to take the sidebar off to get good working access.

You can do it in behind the pylon, but the deck is narrower there and the fairing extends further.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:03 am 
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If you put your access ports behind the rear pylons, I would recommend staying with the 4" port since the 5" port's hole thru the top of the hull will put you too close to the ~3/4" diameter bead of hard dried resin (that oozed out, on the inside, between the sides and top of the hull when it was manufactured). This bead will also get in the way of putting all the bolts thru for the 5" access hatch.

If you put the rear access port too close to the rear pylon, then it will make it difficult to reach the transom (from the inside, just in case you need to make future rudder gudgeon related repairs).

I have big hands, so I decided to cut the holes for the 4" ports, do all my work inside the hulls (thru bolting the gudgeons) before I installed the 4" plastic ports. The hole that you will cut thru the top of the hull will be ~ 4½" in diameter vs ~ 3½" for the inside opening of the 4" port.

Bill Mattson wrote a good article in On The Wire entitled: Do-It-Yourself: Installing Deck Ports

http://www.thebeachcats.com/news/29/ins%20...%20eck-ports/

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