Fun day on the Wave - Don't let go!

Had a fun day on my new Wave a couple weeks back. First season for me with the wave. Tons of fun.

Strong winds that day, but not sure how strong. Decent sized waves for the lake, so was really taking a pounding when trying to head upwind. Buried the nose a few times too. Got surprised by a gust or two and ended up swimming a few times.

I think it's been mentioned in here previously, but this boat really moves while on it's side. Don't let go! In the video you can see it almost gets away from me after a capsize...just managed to grab the tip of the rudder. Otherwise I'd be really swimming hard to catch up.

https://youtu.be/bcweCd6fwGo

Nice video

I just to started this year and got told by all the advanced sailer in big in or gust. Not to lock you line in. Hold it unlocked so you can feel the wind and depower past.

Also is there a reason you don't unclip you sail after you flip? As most tell you to.


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Great video, and you have a good 'feel' for the Wave, well done.

Suggestions:
1. Get some good sailing gloves, they are worth their weight in gold.
2. Uncleat after the capsize and try to swivel the Wave 45 degrees to the wind...before you raise the Wave.
3. When the time comes, consider buying a high tech line for your mainsheet - we love Robbline.
4. For your next capsize, hang on to the mainsheet OR get a tether (like windsurfers use).

Are you a Canucks or Flames fan?

Good winds

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Canucks fan here.

Sailing gloves are a great idea. I've just never got around to it....it's been on my list for a while. Usually by the end of a season my hands are calloused up pretty good...

Holding the main sheet unlocked is good advice. I find though after an hour or so in heavy wind (without sailing gloves ) my hands and arms start getting a bit tired, so I'll cleat in...but try to keep myself ready to snap the line out quick if I need to. Sometimes you're just not fast enough though.

Typically I'll uncleat the main, I think in that clip I was a bit more hurried than usual. When righting, it's a bit different than the dinghys I've been used to. I find when recovering in a dinghy, as the mast and sail are coming out of the water the boat tends to rotate into the wind a bit on it's own. With the Wave, not so much.

I'll be a Thurs. pm quarterback:
1. agreed - gloves are an absolute necessity
2. agreed - definitely uncleat the mainsail after a capsize and, if possible, bring the bows around 45 degrees into the wind.
3. agreed - in high gusty wind conditions keeping the main (uncleated) in your hand allows you to "feel" the wind force
4. Is your mast raked back as much as possible ? It looks like your leeward bow is buried too much, too often.
5. get you weight as far outboard and rearward as possible. many actually sit under the corner of the rudder / tiller connection
6. I think installing a traveller would provide better sail control at speed. Maybe you could sail a friend's Wave with a traveller installed.
7. should you consider a tether, invest time searching for pro/con points of view. where you sail, solo, etc. all points to consider.

fair winds,
bill

Unhooking main sail from mainsheet right after capsize would definetly improve your chances to catch up

I capsized in some 25 + mph winds. As the boat went over I moved to the side of the hull (now the top) and was sitting there for a second, I then jumped into the water and as I was airborne I could see the boat blowing away from me. Needless to say I hit the water swimming and barely caught the rudder only to have it slip from my hands. My second attempt I caught the rudder and got on the boat.

A little tip that you may already know. The Wave loves, and I mean loves RAKE! The only downside is a need to get shorter shrouds to maintain a relatively snug rig, along with a long, sometimes two forestay adjusters. I do not agree with traveler addition as it gets tangled in the rudder assembly sometimes and means another string to pull on a perfectly simple boat. It will provide an advantage on reaches perhaps, but is not class legal for one-design Wave racing which is my passion. For recreation do whatever you like. I am a purist on the original design and have had a lot of success with the rake. The shorter shrouds/snug rig makes the boat a speed demon. Clocked 18.28 mph (15.88kts) a few months ago on a reach and plan to beat that. The snug rig prevents the mast base from jumping the step in bumpy waters, which commonly occurs on loose rigged Waves. Could tell a couple of stories but not now. Also, have removed my cleats and sail with ratcheted bottom block only, low profile 6:1 reeved 4:1. The rake substantially reduces bow punch and allows for incredible reaching power. These two primary changes give the boat a marked advantage to weather (and reaching) on the order of about 5-10% boatspeed as observed in extensive racing experience. Those who have done this give me a lot of trouble on the courses, and they are catching up fast. Last event, found myself behind a lot and had to work harder than ever to win. My mainsail clew rests (when slack) about 12-13" above the rear crossbar. Any critical review of the above is absolutely welcome.

Gordo, did you cut your side stays shorter or would removing the side adjuster plate do the job (side stay directly shackled to tang)? That requires a lot of forestay length, right? (Or just stack the adjusters up front after you take them off the side stays?)

My Wave is a '95 model. Had 3/32 wires with the old scissor clip connector. I cut the shroud at the swage (sic) and took it to west marine, turned it up with a new thimble and swage and that worked. I've added 10 hole adjusters to the chainplate connection. I don't raise the mast normally with hinge, but instead just like to pick up the mast and stand it into the base, so I also don't take all the wires off for transit. I do loosen the shrouds to the top of the shroud adjusters for mast put up or take down, but snug down about 7 holes on the 10 hole shroud adjusters (that would vary) before dropping the boat in the water. I roll the wires up and bungy them to the mast. As an aside, the original 3/32 wires are fine for my 180 lbs, but I've had a couple of dismasts with two or three good sized people on the boat. bridles break first. At least in my case with the rake, so I'm going to 1/8 there. The boat was apparently introduced with 3/32 standing rigging back then, as well as first bunch produced used the H14 base and step until they ran out and put the newer design mast and step on. While the boats are made to the same specs with respect to geometry, they do seem to vary between club and classic a little on standing rigging adjustments. so no one size fits all. You may have to have the shrouds made custom.