TI outboard mount

Agree with you CR. I should suggest RPrince mount to those planning to install one. Some existing setup like yours is of course won't consider replacing.

I'll setup mine to have trolling motor in left side and Honda outboard in right side. I'm currently shopping for a cheap lithium battery even a used one that I can attached to a Minnkota TM 30 lb trust. I don't think I would go for Torqeedo anymore as it's an expensive to maintain kind of motor.

Nap, personally I would suggest in going with something like I built new or old. I wouldn't do it different, keep it simple. All you need is aluminum strips and have them welded together to form the braces, for the 2X6, treated. Can always replace the 2X6, easily, down the road. For strength use aluminum strips from underneath the gun wales for backing. By placing the mount close to the rear port, on a TI, it will be much easier to reach from the porthole to install. Plus you keep all that storage area open, behind you. Place the mount as close to the rear port as possible. I place my motor on my left along with my fish finder mounted in the cup holder on my left, railblaza. Keep my right open for landing fish. Although I can still land on the left, smaller fish.

I'm not sure why you would want a trolling motor and running motor? You can only push that barge through the water so fast. What you gain over 5 to 7 mph is hugely lost in efficiency. The trolling motor is the running motor also. For very slow troll, like Crappie, pedal. I would only consider two motors on each side of the same type like Bob does with his two 2.3hp Hondas. Myself I use only one. By all means, gas powered is by far the most cost efficient. Electric has a long ways to go.

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Mark
Tandem Island- 2013
2 - Sports - 2014

Thank you CR for sharing your thoughts.
I'm done buying the parts and assembled it last weekend. Really happy with it.
Picture does not show the actual mount. I'm installing TM on left mount just so I have something to use when my lower back pain started to irritate me. I like TM so I can make quick turns when I'm around big boats at boat ramp. And will also use this TM when on shallow water where I need to pull up the mirage drive and rudder.

https://goo.gl/photos/zr4EBevi4amV2zaG8

Looking good Nap, we have been using ours all season and have had no problems with the added stress of the engine. The thing I really like is that it doesnt look homemade, it looks like it belongs, which goes along way when getting hassled by harbor patrol.
Now I wish I would have just bought a second motor instead of the spinniker.

i totally agree. Thanks again for sharing.

Glad I don't have to be subjected to any of that bull. Down here it's just you and the Big Blue. Nobody going to care what you do and they definitely are not going to come looking for you, there is no one to do so. You want to look pretty, it's all a private showing for yourself and you.
No license, no limits, no laws.
Just your own common sense and the will to explore.

_________________
Mark
Tandem Island- 2013
2 - Sports - 2014

Here's my copied version. Not as good as Rprince original assembly. Next will be deciding how to attach the motor and make sure it does not slide out nor jump out the mount when kayak is push around by big waves.

https://goo.gl/photos/ZAdPxnPK7vjJgdFw6

https://goo.gl/photos/kj8qLnT34ECoxtpM7

Looks good Nap, I have one suggestion. I would shorten the bar the motor is mounted to than use a small section of the part you cut and put it under the motor mount it will give you added area to mount to. Mcmaster has the perfect size square bracket to attach the 2 parts together and mount the motor to. Very nicely done
That is what I ended up doing. It didnt move with the single arm but it just more peace of mind. I also added some rubber which helped with the noise.

Thanks RPrince. Understood. I'll do everything you suggested. My upper bar is not yet cut to the correct length as I'm still waiting for my friend to cut it for me. I'll use the excess for adding mounting space as you suggested and place a rubber to add more grip and reduce noise. Thanks alot

Thanks Walt for this thread and thanks to all who had input.
It's been very helpful for me sorting out my mount.


To avoid splashing and cut down on noise I wanted the mount as far aft as possible. It sits just in front of the rear hatch, leaving just enough clearance for the hatch lid to open.



This also gives good access for the internal fittings. Through hull fittings are mounted into M6 stainless channel nuts The channel nuts are a good fit in the gunwale and don't require holding with a spanner when tightening.



I used powder coated 50mm (2”) square section aluminium pool fence post as the main framework.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/protector-a ... p_p1140654
To get the height I bolted 3 sections together using M6 stainless bolts. A section of poly cutting board makes a good base for the OB bracket.


The square section tube is secured to the hull on the port side with a 6mm wing bolt.


It's not visible but on the starboard side the tube has a slot cut into the base which sits on top of a stainless eye plate screwed into the gunwale. Tensioned with the turnbuckles there is no movement.


For bracing I used stainless turnbuckles attached to stainless M6 eyebolts screwed into the channel nuts.

Fixed with a wing bolt and turnbuckles, the mount can be easily undone and removed leaving only the eyebolts in place.
(Note that since taking this pic I have added an extra backup larger turnbuckle and M8 eyebolt, mounted just forward of the rod holder and in a straight line with the gunwale back to the tube. Though it was rock solid with the two turnbuckles I did notice the aft turnbuckle would loosen slightly at higher revs. A turnbuckle failure could be catastrophic and I wanted redundancy built in for safety)

Being so far aft, splashing from the engine onto the hull is minimal.



For sailing, the engine is raised and remains clear of the mainsheet.


I'm still running it in, but at 1/4 throttle have hit 12km/h.
This little 2.5 Suzuki is a great addition to the TI.
A micro motor, perfect for a micro yacht!

Great idea using the powder coat AL pool fence material!!

Earlier in this thread, we were discussing the need to re-pitch the prop on these small outboards for the TI application and I think there is NO need at all to do this and took some video to back this up. I finally got around to editing this video and its posted below.

The Suzuki 2.5 hp has a built in 6000 RPM rev limit (uses the electronic ignition - timing gets messed with over 6000 RPM). In the first part of the video, I have the outboard in neutral and revved it as high as it would go - safe to do because of the auto rev limit (not all outboards have this). Earlier in this thread I had measured this same thing with a scope and its right at 6000 RPM. I then put the outboard in gear and ran it wide open throttle.

You will have to listen for yourself but Im fairly sure the RPM when running at peak speeds of 8 to 8.2 mph is just a hair under 6000 RPM. And that is exactly where it should be. I think the stock prop that comes with the Suzuki 2.5 hp four stroke is well matched to the TI just as is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNbpoea ... load_owner

FYI, at the end of that video shows the lexan shield that keeps the wash from the rear round hatch. The placement Stringy used looks like it probably solves that problem without the need for the shield.

Very nice, Stringy. That is the ideal placement for the mount. Like the way you moved it out further from the hull, the motor, so as not to be splashing back up onto the rear. Will definitely help to keep any water leakage into the hull at a minimum but you create another issue by doing this, now that mount is sticking out too far and will catch the water when sailing, best keep an eye on that. Not so sure about the support from the hull to the mount. But if you say it's solid, excellent.

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Mark
Tandem Island- 2013
2 - Sports - 2014

I think this probably does make a difference. Doesn't sound fall of with the square or cube of distance.. (or something like that). My wife sitting in the front seat doesn't think the outboard is loud but I do in the rear seat. Just a foot when things are that close might be way significant.

Also interesting. At 18 feet, the theoretical displacement hull speed of the TI is 5.685 knots. The GPS speed in that video bounces around a bit but when things are stable, 8 mph is close to average.

8 mph is 6.9518 knots.

The ratio of actual speed / theoretical hull speed is 6.9518/5.6851 = 1.223. So the 2.5 hp Suzuki is taking the TI at least 22 percent over theoretical displacement hull speed. 22 percent is a LOT...

Here is another nice implementation from Doug Ames (sailing buddy in Lake Havasu Az). This mount is also removable except for some mounting plates. Doug posted these on facebook and I just linked to the images so hopefully you can see them.

Thanks Walt and Mark. Some valuable info there and it's always good to see how others have mounted their outboards.
This is very much a work in progress.
I've added another 5 hours of motoring, this time with 2 on board, so it was interesting to compare the difference to soloing.
We mostly cruised at around 10km/h with the motor at 1/4 throttle. Unfurling the sail added another 1km/h or so when sailing into the 15 knot wind but slowed us down when going with the 5-8 knot wind starting out.
We did 32kms all up in a mix of open and enclosed waters but were able to explore much further than we normally would. Returning in a 15 to 20 knot headwind was where the outboard really proved its worth.
I have added the extra turnbuckle. It's amazing how well the turnbuckles brace the tube. Just slight tension removes all for/aft movement. As the motor under power twists the mount aft the extra turnbuckle is good security.

I feel the motor could be raised another 50mm or so, as the anti cavitation plate seems too deep. I will add another tube section to the base. I will also try bringing the whole mount in board a bit as it doesn't need to be so far out. It's not a problem when sailing as I keep the hull level by hiking out, but the mount does catch wind driven waves/swell, which we experienced on our return trip into a strong headwind on open waters. Cruising at 10km/h we copped a drenching, as did the motor, but it didn't miss a beat. The 70 minute return trip would have taken at least twice as long without it.