H16 - Broke the Mast Step

Hey gang -

First post. Used to sail an H14 Turbo and just acquired what I think is a decent H16.

Trying to step the mast this weekend, I broke out the holes on the mast step. Here's the damage.

What's your assessment and recommendations for repairs?

Jim

The mast base can be easily replaced and parts are available. That said, I know of a couple of folks that just use a line or a couple of bungees to hold the base of the mast close to the bar and step the mast that way. The thing you put the pin in is only used when raising or lowering the mast to keep the bottom of the mast aligned with the socket. As long as the bottom of the mast is held down while you raise the top, it is light enough to set it properly in the socket.

_________________
Steve
2017 Hobie 16 "Cayman" sails 114795
1985 & 1973? Hobie 14 "Sea & Ski"

Bungee cords? Ummm, no.

The mast base needs to be held securely to the step or it will move around which could cause damage or injury, not to mention making it a PITA to align with the step. The mast may be light, but it's 26 feet long meaning it generates tremendous leverage and can be quite cumbersome.

If you have two or three people, you can step the mast without using a hinge using the "human link" method, but even that can be a bit dicey.

sm

Were you using the step link? I'm wondering if you had forgotten about that after all these years. That would rip out the casting holes.

Even with the step link, if the mast is too far forward in the step it will pull on the link. You need to keep the mast back as you lift it so it stays aligned.

You could probably get that welded and then re-drill it. Personally I think I would take the opportunity to upgrade both parts or at least consider it.

_________________
'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

Don't even consider that.

The alloy used in the castings doesn't weld well. Cast aluminum welding is tricky in general and it's some of the most difficult welding you can do. The parts have to be super clean and pre-heated. You'd need to take the step off - and if you're going to take it off, you might as well replace it. New mast steps are much better than old ones like that.

When replacing the step, how do you align the rivet holes to the crossbar, as new steps come without holes in them. I had removed a step and had it welded without a problem, been using it for years.

_________________
JKK
83 yellow/ white decks Hobie 14 Corando turbo
82 yellow hulls Hobie 16 Cat Fever
84 yellow hulls hobie 16 Yellow Nationals
plus a few extras that I'm restoring

You can put some masking tape on the crossbar and mark the hole locations outside the boundary of the step (i.e. intersecting lines that locate the centerline of each hole. Then place the step on the crossbar and transfer those marks onto the step, draw your lines, center punch and then drill. Double check the locations by carefully measuring the spacing between the holes.

Or you can use hole transfer punches. Place one punch in each of the four rivet holes, set the step down onto the crossbar and give it a tap with a dead blow hammer to mark the four hole locations. Then drill through. On second thought, this may not work all that well though because the holes are not all on the same plane.



sm

I just clamped the mast step to the cross bar and then drilled new holes thru the step and crossbar instead of trying to use the old holes in the crossbar.

Make sure you don't try to drill through the back of the front crossbar (where the tramp track is) since you will not be able to put a rivet there.

_________________
Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

New holes... trying to hit the old corroded holes is tougher.

Read the mast step article I did for the Hotline years ago for how best to do this.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

First of all I'm very new to hobie cats (we are taking our new 82 out tomorrow for the first time), I've been sailing a sunfish for years now but I do have a solution to your problem of matching up your holes.

Grab a piece of paper and your old mast step, put the mast step on the paper and trace the outline of the step. Then either take a drill bit while holding the paper in place and poke through your paper, now you have a template! To transfer that to the new step align the outline then mark your holes from the bottom and drill from the bottom.
Hopefully that helps/works.

Here's an idea.

Drill new holes across your broken mast step to fit a Philips screwdriver through. (Looks like you have space)
Then employ two or three or even four small shackles inter-linked.
Lower shackle around inserted screwdriver in center of lower mast step and say two upper shackle around either side of the mast base (hook) held in place by second inserted screwdriver.

This should provide enough stability to raise and lower the mast single handed.
When raised just pull out the two screw drivers to release the shackles that then free's the mast for rotation

Much cheaper and easier than the alternative.
Using bungee or rope is a bad idea.
bungee.. well too bouncy and using rope I have seen folks ripping out mast cleats when tying it off to them during the raising process.

Hope this helps!

SRG

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Hobie 14 Turbo (~1979)
Hobie 16 Carumba (1983)
Hobie 16 1990 (storm damaged)
Hobie 16 1996 (my latest)