Replacing/Repair twist-stow-rudder on 2009 13.5ft revolution

Our kayaks are 8 years old, 2009 models, and when we lower the rudder it doesn't always engaged. It will turn left but not right. We have to raise and lower the rudder, sometimes several times, to get full control. I had it adjusted at the shop which helped a little bit but not much.
Anyway suggestions?
I open to replacing my older model twist-stow with the newer version but I'm not sure it'll work on my older model.

To me it sounds like you just aren't 'locking' the rudder fully down. when you say it will turn left but not right - that is a classic example of the rudder not being locked down. When you pull the line for the 'down' function - there's a cleat on the side of the cockpit where the mesh storage pocket is. Just inquiring if you 'locking' the down line in the cleat or not.

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Jacques Bernier
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I don't normally lock the rudder down as there is a lot of dead fall, trees and branches, we go over. Florida creeks and swamps areas. But I can try your approach in open water by St. Augustine.
What about the amount of slack in the lines? There about an inch in either the up or down lines dependent if the rudder is up or down. The left/right lines have a out 2 inches of slack in each when the rudder is up.
Thanks for your help.

The best way to get your rudder to lock in the down position is to move the rudder control left and right while pulling on your "down" line. Then locking it in your cleat under tension should keep it in place.

If the Twist n Stow is a little stiff, you can spray some silicon spray on it (not WD-40). Sometimes backing out the rotation bolt just a fraction will help (you don't want the rotating drum to wobble (too lose) or pinch (too tight). Buying a new rudder or T & S unit will not necessarily fix the problem.

If you dont lock it down water pressure will start to lift it up out of its locating notch at the back of the hull, and hence reduce its effect, when you turn to one side (right I think?) compared to the other.

You should be able to lock the rudder down without damage if it strikes a submerged object. The system is built so that there is enough "give" for the rudder to ride up over the object and drop back down again. If you are using the large rudder, you can easily cut off the bottom 2 inches for better shallow water performance without ever noticing the difference in rudder authority.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic. ... 2&p=263631

Leave the up and down slack -- it is designed that way. Left and right slack should be checked when the rudder is down, locked and centered. In that configuration the lines should be taut (no slack). Keep in mind that temperature plays a part here. When hot, the boat expands slightly, firming the rudder lines; when cold there will be more slack. I try to set mine in between.

Perfect, from these responses I have a good point where to start.
If any of you that responded are in NorthEast Florida, by Ponte Vedra, let me know and a refreshing beverage of your choice is on me.