Check you aka rivets

I just got a used AI2. It was an awesome kayak.
While taking it out yesterday I found out all 4 aka bars have loose rivets. I know it will be fixed under warranty, but I know how and had fixed my AI1 aka bars before.
I drilled all 16 rivets out, found that they put a bit of glue in between, most of the glue was forced into the tube.
Now I am going with marine goop plus aluminum rivets. What hold it is the marine goop.

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Sale: 12Ah/15Ah Lithium Battery
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FWIW... Marine Goop, Shoe Goop, Plumbers Goop, Household Goop, are all the same product. Only the name on the package is different.

I think Marine Goop has UV resistant. The others do not.

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Sale: 12Ah/15Ah Lithium Battery
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index ... #msg959037

I used to use the Goop products a lot until I observed that they harden and become brittle with age and then become less effective. Now I don't use them anymore.

The kit offered by Hobie to repair the rivets uses epoxy.

The best adhesive I've yet found is 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 Fast Cure. Do not confuse this with the more common silicone sealant which is a good sealant but not a good adhesive.

3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is urethane based and one of the strongest and most durable adhesive/sealants available, especially for marine use. It remains flexible for years and is far superior to Goop and most other similar products in every way.

The knuckles for the aka bars are die cast, so the hole that the aka bar slips into has draft (so the can get the core pins out). Rivets are what they call a static holding device meaning they are not intended to take any stress. In other words when you put the bars into the knuckles without rivets the bars should not be able to move up and down. To achieve this its best to gob in some sort of space filler, you can use anything you like, Hobie I believe uses marine grade epoxy (has to be marine grade, normal grocery store epoxy, (like normal common 5 or 30 minute epoxy breaks down and turns white in water, (read the label...)).
5200 is about the best stuff out there for marine use. Actually if 5200 is used, the rivets are no longer needed. Personally I used clear silicone, because it's hydrophobic and removable if you ever need to redo the joints. Once you put the new rivets in it helps a lot to soak the rivets down with clear coat spray paint to help preven galvanic corrosion.
The true test is if the tube moves or wiggles at all prior to installing the rivets, the rivets will eventually fail (they are not designed to withstand that type of stress), just read up in any engineering handbook about proper use and application of rivets.
All just my opinions
FE