5200 was a good choice. Tough as nails. Aluminum rivets are not very strong in shear, so keep and eye on any movement.
Matt, I know that this thread is a year old, however I just replaced the rivets and 5200'ed the knuckle joints on my 2015 TI. The akas were actually "glued" by Hobie Corporate, however the glue used by the factory "cracked" under stress and was insufficient for the task. I re-riveted the knuckles all around and used all aluminum marine rivets, some 3/16" some 1/4" depending on if I had to redrill the hole.
They have cured now for 7 days (for the 3M 5200) and I will be taking "Supernova" out to sea trials as soon as I re-rivet the downhaul that rusted out on my sail. Luckily I have a sailmaker 200 yards from my house who is letting me use his shop for the sail repair.
I made an amateurish video of the repair and what I did an posted it up on my youtube channel. You can find it here:
Of note, there was a pretty good bit of galvanic/bimetal corrosion going on in the knuckle area. That was my motivation for going with the all aluminum rivets. With the 5200, I will expect that the akas will never fail in the knuckle rivet area again. Time will tell.
Recommendation for Hobie: take a little more time in the gluing process when assembling the akas, the glue **might** have held if there was a little more in the joint space between the arm and the knuckle. Or just 5200 it and call it good for good. That alien technology stuff will never come apart, the metal aka bar will fail first most likely.
Thanks for the listen.
Great video! I need to do this to my aka's very soon. I've had all my aka's and cross members replaced on my 2015 TI under warranty about 1 year ago because of this issue. Now they are loose again! I will take care of the issue myself this time with the help of your video. I thought about ordering Hobies fix kit with their epoxy and rivets but I can't find anyone that carries it so I'll just duplicate what you did. Thanks again for the detailed video.
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:58 pm Posts: 219 Location: SF Bay
bedmonds wrote:
scc wrote:
mmiller wrote:
5200 was a good choice. Tough as nails. Aluminum rivets are not very strong in shear, so keep and eye on any movement.
I hear you. I'm hoping the adhesive prevents shearing and the aluminum will be less prone to electrolysis. However, I understand the rivet mandrels may be SS. I'll be watching it closely.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have you had any electrolysis problems with the new aluminum ones? I went with all aluminum based on your post and concern.
5200 is the best choice, it's incredibly tough and more importantly, it's flexible. The epoxy that Hobie uses initially fills the gap but when repeatedly stressed and compressed it will eventually disintegrate. 5200 is far more resilient and will take years and years of punishment. It may be a permanent fix whereas expect to do epoxy every two years or so.
Some people think 5200 is silicone based when in fact it's a urethane compound which has both sealant and very strong adhesive properties. It has a tensile strength of 700 - 1000 psi. It's also completely waterproof when cured.
The downside is that it's messy to work with and it's expensive compared to epoxy which is probably why Hobie doesn't use it in production, although seeing that this problem is widespread they should consider it. A quality boat component should last a lot longer than two years.
You can also purchase a Fast Cure version which is tack free in an hour as opposed to 12 hours, and fully cures in 1-2 days as opposed to 5-7 days.
It's much more economical to buy it in a 10 oz caulking gun cartridge than a 3 oz tube, but once you open the cartridge it will harden in the tube in about a year. You can extend this significantly by carefully resealing it after each use and keeping it as cool and dry as possible.
You can buy the tube or cartridge online or locally at Lowes if you have one nearby, they usually stock both.
Once you use this product, you'll never go back to anything less.
Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 6:22 pm Posts: 23 Location: Brooklin, Maine
Yakaholic71 wrote:
bedmonds wrote:
mmiller wrote:
5200 was a good choice. Tough as nails. Aluminum rivets are not very strong in shear, so keep and eye on any movement.
Matt, I know that this thread is a year old, however I just replaced the rivets and 5200'ed the knuckle joints on my 2015 TI. The akas were actually "glued" by Hobie Corporate, however the glue used by the factory "cracked" under stress and was insufficient for the task. I re-riveted the knuckles all around and used all aluminum marine rivets, some 3/16" some 1/4" depending on if I had to redrill the hole.
They have cured now for 7 days (for the 3M 5200) and I will be taking "Supernova" out to sea trials as soon as I re-rivet the downhaul that rusted out on my sail. Luckily I have a sailmaker 200 yards from my house who is letting me use his shop for the sail repair.
I made an amateurish video of the repair and what I did an posted it up on my youtube channel. You can find it here:
Of note, there was a pretty good bit of galvanic/bimetal corrosion going on in the knuckle area. That was my motivation for going with the all aluminum rivets. With the 5200, I will expect that the akas will never fail in the knuckle rivet area again. Time will tell.
Recommendation for Hobie: take a little more time in the gluing process when assembling the akas, the glue **might** have held if there was a little more in the joint space between the arm and the knuckle. Or just 5200 it and call it good for good. That alien technology stuff will never come apart, the metal aka bar will fail first most likely.
Thanks for the listen.
Great video! I need to do this to my aka's very soon. I've had all my aka's and cross members replaced on my 2015 TI under warranty about 1 year ago because of this issue. Now they are loose again! I will take care of the issue myself this time with the help of your video. I thought about ordering Hobies fix kit with their epoxy and rivets but I can't find anyone that carries it so I'll just duplicate what you did. Thanks again for the detailed video.
It's been working really well, sailed with a couple of members up here from Florida this week and showed them the fix.
Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 6:22 pm Posts: 23 Location: Brooklin, Maine
scc wrote:
bedmonds wrote:
scc wrote:
mmiller wrote:
5200 was a good choice. Tough as nails. Aluminum rivets are not very strong in shear, so keep and eye on any movement.
I hear you. I'm hoping the adhesive prevents shearing and the aluminum will be less prone to electrolysis. However, I understand the rivet mandrels may be SS. I'll be watching it closely.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have you had any electrolysis problems with the new aluminum ones? I went with all aluminum based on your post and concern.
No electrolysis noted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! The 5200 is so solid I don't think the rivets will even see any stress at all. I think they mostly plug the holes on the aka knuckles now!! Ha. It's not a very expensive fix compared with the cost of only one new aka. Took me 45 minutes+ 7 days. The fast set 5200 may be the best update to this fix!
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