hawaii righting line length

I know I've read this in a post before but I can't find it. What legnth of line will I need to use for my hawaii rigting system? I'm 6'5" if that helps any. I know how it all ties off, I'm just uncertain of how much line to use, I have about 38 feet of 1/2 inch line that I plan on using. Any help is appreciated.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

I am doing the same thing to my boat at the moment. I have measured the length to be ~42 feet. What I have planned is to put an eye splice in one end and put that around one rudder pin. Then run the line to the other side and tie it to the other rudder pin. Then I will go out and purposely dump it and right it again with the line to see if the length needs adjusting. When I get it right, I will mark it and put an eye splice in the correct spot so I will be able to eliminate the knot on the rudder pin and wondering if I have it right every year. We'll see how it goes. It would be nice to have someone just tell me how long, but I think it depends on a few factors, like height and weight or the "righter". What do you all think?

Drill a hole in the lip over the stern on the inside in both hulls. Measure from the hole around the outside of the rear pylon to the front pylon. Measure from the front pylon to the center of the rear crossbar. Add the two together and double. That's how much line you need for an Hawaiian system.

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At our Club, we have used the Hawaiian system, also the big blue and white bungee cord from Hobie. Every year, around May 1st, when we re-assemble all the Club boats, (Lasers, Albacores, Bytes, Tasers, H16's and H18's), we need all the help we can get. So many of our 'helpers' are not experienced Hobie folk, and they often do not know a dolphin striker from a jib car. It's amazing how helpful people become under the influence of oat sodas while standing in the shadow of a 28 foot mast!

We have evolved a process whereby the end of the righting line is tied to the rudder pins using line like RHT316White, or the similar size from a Laser cunningham/downhaul line. So Bowline the end of the (thicker) righting line to the thinner RHT316, tie the end of the 316 to the rudder pin. Or whatever works for you.

On my personal H18, I have the holes drilled in the lip of the hulls, (at the rear inner under the rear crossbar, and in front under the front crossbar, all with shackles and pulleys) so that my Hawaiian system is tucked away underneath. Elegant and neat. One day, I might have the use for it, especially if my 13 year old wants to go for a swim. No remarks about 'sail harder' please.

Can't wait for Spring, 4" more snow this last Thursday evening.

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Is there any reason that it can't just be tied of to the pylon? Or does that not have the same effect as tying it to the rudder pin, or in a hole in the deck lip as suggested earlier? I like the idea of getting that last bit of line nearest the rear of the boat out of the water. There is really no way to avoid it when it is tied of to the rudder pin and that bukly bowline has to be creating some drag. Last time I was sailing I was having this thought thinking there has to be a way that this thing isn't draging in the water.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

If it's run through a hole in the lip then a stopper knot will do the job. Use 5/16 line and the knot will tuck up into the lip.

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Im a new Hobie 16 owner again! and new to this forum.

I raced H16's in the late 70's early 80's in Ontario, Canada around the Toronto area on the great lakes.

Even did the 79 Canadian Nationals on Lake Simcoe one year.....a total blast.

After a couple divorces and relocated to sunny southern California, I find myself in possesion of an old decent H16 again.

Are there any diagrams of the different righting systems, and I wonder which one works best?
My old H16 just had the rope tied off around the 4 posts so I had to untie them to use them, slow but simple.

The hulls never get of the water much in a race so racing dumps meant you lost all hope unless mother nature smite your opponents and gives you another chance to catch up....so righting speed was never an issue, but now I'd be swimming with the sharks....so its more of an urgent issue to get back on board ASAP. I want a bungie system!!!

Ray

Murrays catalog has some pretty good diagrams of all the popular systems. I guess the advantage of the Hawaiian system is that if you go all the way to the transom with the line, you have enough slack to put it behind your back? I haven't had to use it yet, but plan on doing it on purpose when the water gets above 60 degrees F. What is the advantage of using the pulleys on the front pylons? My system was just looped around the front pylon and then back to the pulley on the bungee at the back of the tramp.

Sorry, I forgot to put in my last post that I did the measurement thing and came up with 16 ft. and 10 inches from the transom up around the front pylon and then back to the middle of the back beam. That would give a total of about 34 ft. for the entire line.

I don't think pullys are intended to be used on the front pylon for the hawaiian system. On my boat there is just a u-bracket riveted to the front pylons, facing the bows, that the line goes through. I believe that this is to keep the righting line from going over the tramp and help it stay put under the tramp.

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James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

I always save old mainsheets for future use as righting lines for the homemade Hawaiian system.

I was going to guess somewhere around 14 to 17 feet for each side.

This allows enough length to tie the knots in the line, one stopper for fully deployed and one for the relaxed position. A large eyestrap riveted to the front side of the forward pylon is what your knots stop against.

Tie a pair of old jib clew blocks to your tramp lacing center aft, run a bungee through one and forward through one simple block tied to your center tramp lacing at the mast base, then back through the other aft block and tie off to the other sides line.

You can adjust the tension (or compensate for length) by varying the length of the return bungee under the tramp, and/or your smaller attachment lines to the stern deck lip (as described in an earlier post).

The righting line becomes a chicken line to keep your crew on board when you bury the leeward bow on a screaming reach Crew holds on to the righting line with their rear hand to keep from making a trip around the forestay.

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hobiejohn at earthlink dot net
Fleet 297