upper and lower blocks

I just purchased a couple of used hobie cat 16's that are missing upper and lower blocks. I've done a little research and it looks like the replacement 16 parts are the Harken 344 for the lower block and the Harken 2640 or 2643 for the upper block. Can someone confirm these blocks?
Thanks,
Peter

The Harken 2640 is the upper block (40 mm triple).

Use a smaller shackle than the one that comes with the block.

Harken 2629 is the lower block (you'll need to add an eyestrap above the cleat to tie off the mainsheet).

Also, lose the shackle on the lower block - pin it directly to the traveler car.

Thanks for sharing I was just about to purchase these myself so it's super useful tips!

Thank you for your help.
Peter

thanks, the 2629 is pretty expensive. is there another cheaper option??

Matt, are new boats coming with 29 mm upper blocks? That seems really small. I thought the standard upper block was 40 mm. Harken says it that the maximum line diameter for the 29 mm is only 5/16" or 8 mm, which is smaller than the traditionally recommended 3/8" H16 mainsheet (most of the time this mean 10 mm but occasionally 9 mm). Are you sailing with an 8 mm mainsheet these days? Thanks a lot!

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Leigh Huff

Leigh, I just picked up the 344 and 2629. The 344 can only handle up to 5/16 or 8mm. I looked at a couple of sites and they are recommending 5/16 or 8mm for both mainsail and jib. I'm replacing the jib line also which was 3/8 so I bought 3/8. Mark can probably provide better insight. 5/16 seems small...

Thanks, pschmitt, for that response. I have been tempted to try the smaller diameter because my 3/8" line clogs in light air. I rarely cleat the main and have always liked the 3/8" line once I get going. It is somewhat of a surprise that the smaller size is now being recommended.

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Leigh Huff

There is a nice 6:1 set of blocks for sale on the beachcats site for $200 good price comparatively.

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ADDICTION
1989 HOBIE 18 SE/sx wings
HOBIE ALTER SIGNATURE MODEL

Using the smallest possible block (along with thinner line) is just one of the little tricks used to eke more mast rake out of the rig.

Others (from top of the stack to the bottom:
- Moving the boom bail up so far, you can't remove the shackle from the boom
- Using the smallest possible shackle
- Using the smallest blocks
- Moving the becket from above the cleat to the side of the lower block so the blocks fully touch when sheeted in fully (applies only to the Harken 194 - can't do that with the Carbo blocks)
- No shackle to attach the lower block to the traveler

You can cut about 3" out of the main sheet stack using these tricks.

Use an old boom with 2 beckets and a single and double block. The you can take the boom down to the top of the bottom block.

The problem with that is that it forces the lower block to face forward, making it hard to cleat from the trapeze. Rigged properly, the upper triple meets the lower block at a 90° angle, and since both are on swivels, they point to wherever the sheet is led to. Then the only issue is getting the right vertical angle on the cleat.

29mm on top and 57mm on bottom??? incorrect. the 2629 is 57mm.

are you folks talking about downhall or mainsheet?

29mm is for downhall. 40mm for upper mainsheet block.

I cant imagine using a 29mm for a mainsheet.

[post fail]

Gino, you're right - the new boats come with the 40 mm upper (Harken 2640).

But I had to measure mine to make sure. I've corrected my original post.

The lower block is correct though at 57 mm. Measured mine.

I wouldn't be surprised if someone tried the 20 mm block on the main. Easy way to eliminate almost an inch of stack. You'd have to use a really skinny line, though. Saw that at the 14s this year. People were running 7 mm line in their mains.