Hobie 16 Mainsheet snap shackle choice

I've been looking into purchasing snap shackles for a while. At some point I contacted West Marine. West Marine contacted the manufacture (Lewmar) and they didn't know what strength shackle I would need for a Hobie 16 Mainsheet.
But, West Marine continued to investigate and I just heard back from the Rigging Service at West Marine.
They sent a picture to me of a 6:1 system for a Hobie 16 (I don't have any specs and I cannot find the same picture on their web site) and stated that "the shackles on those blocks are rated at 1650lb. MWL and 3300 lb. Break strength."

So, with that information, I'm looking to use the 60mm Lewmar snap shackle found here:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar-- ... ecordNum=7

The shackle doesn't have a swivel, but the block does.
I'm trying to get as low a profile snap shackle as I can to keep the main sail as tight as possible when I am block to block.

I'd like to say "Well done" to West Marine.
And I would like to ask: any ideas? objections? Experience?

Thank you.

_________________
1982 Hobie 16 - Hobie-Wan Kenobi ~May the wind be with you
2007 Hobie Getaway - Yet to be named.

So what would you attach to what? With the existing system the post on the bottom of the H194 (lower carbo triple) gets pinned directly to the traveler car.

_________________
'00 H16 #104691
'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages

I would replace the shackle on the top block and attach it to the boom with the new snap shackle.
I can’t tell how big it is, or if it will fit through the old boom’s hanger (1982).
I wonder if anyone has had problems with this shackle or snap shackles.
Do I need to tape the ring ding? What could make it release? Could it snag on something?
Is it worth it?

Thanks.

_________________
1982 Hobie 16 - Hobie-Wan Kenobi ~May the wind be with you
2007 Hobie Getaway - Yet to be named.

For Class racing, snap shackles are not allowed.
To go block to block, you want as short a distance as possible - the snap shackle will use up 1 1/2 to 2 inches.
Hobie and Hobie dealers will urge you to use the standard supplied shackle, as it is rated for strength and safety.

So, outside of the recommendations, what each of us do is up to us.
Some go with a snap shackle, others go with a 3/16ths Quick Pin, with keeper, available from any Hobie dealer, call around.
The problem with both of those systems is that if you get into strong winds, and the main sail/boom flop around, or we fall into the boom,
or if the mainsheet flies around, it is possible that the Quick Pin or snap shackle could disconnect.....

Depending how and where you sail, you'll make the appropriate decision. What you found looks good. If rigging time is of importance, go with the gadgets.

In my case, we used a snap shackle at the clew of the main sail of my beloved H18SX (now sold). Now in social sailing, on my H16, I use that for the jib blocks.
For social sailing, I use the Quick Pin on the top of the main blocks, however, I do tape it before every sail.

Be safe, sail well.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

That is exactly the insight I was looking for.

Thank you very much!

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1982 Hobie 16 - Hobie-Wan Kenobi ~May the wind be with you
2007 Hobie Getaway - Yet to be named.

There is no rule that prevents a snap shackle from being used in class racing.

That being said, a snap shackle is not recommended since it will eat up a ton of stack height on your main blocks which will reduce the amount of mast rake you can carry. Snap shackles also have more parts than a standard shackle, making them more prone to jamming and/or breaking. Best approach if you want quick release on the blocks is to use a standard shackle with quick pin.

sm

I never thought of it before but this discussion makes me wonder about the strength of the strap on the boom. Is it riveted and if so what is the strength of the those connections?

_________________
Howard

3/16” diameter rivets are good for around 1,000lbs in shear and there are four of them on each strap. A quick calculation on the tensile area of the boom straps with some assumptions (SWAG) puts the strength of the strap at about 1,500 lbs. So adequate for the task. Never seen one fail.

sm

As srm stated the rivets are not an issue
Using a snap shackle on Hobie 20's is common practice, and the boom bail itself broke on our 20

_________________
1984 H16 "Mister Rogers"
1984 H14 "Sundays"
2000 H20 "Jet"
Sheet In, Max Out

Thank you all very much.
It is not so much a matter reducing setup time as much as I do t want to drop a shackle or pin into the shallows while I’m setting up.
The “beaches” where I sail are all very rocky, so I have no place to finish setting up after launching.
I bring the 16 onto the beach as much as I dare and raise the main and attach the mainsheet.
I have to do this off the trailer, so I can keep it head to wind.

Are there captive alternatives that are more secure than a snap shackle?
That won’t detract from my ability to go block to block?
Something I can’t drop into the drink?

Maybe I’ll try magnetic gloves....

_________________
1982 Hobie 16 - Hobie-Wan Kenobi ~May the wind be with you
2007 Hobie Getaway - Yet to be named.

Why do you need to disconnect the blocks from the boom? Just leave them connected to the boom and use a quick pin (ball lock pin) to attach the lower block to the traveler car. You can use a thin line to tie the quick pin to the traveler car if you’re worried about dropping it.

sm

Another way to save from dropping shackle pins is to run a small string or wire through the hole that many shackle pins have, on the other end tie that to a fishing swivel so it can twist while turning the shackle pin.

I am going to do this to my shackles

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84 14T Redline #67 Blue Hawaii faded but still working!
82 Yellow hull16 '81 Boomer nationals 20.9 on GPS
83 White hull 16 No sails "Clean and Purty Now!"
87 White hull no sails no tramp

Moroni,

First, good stainless steel is not magnetic so the gloves are out.

I always made all the pin connections while still on the trailer. That means attaching the mainsheet blocks to the boom and the traveler car. The main and jib halyards have captive pins on their shackles so that leaves just the two shackles on the jib. They could be connected while on the trailer and jib tied down so it didn't catch any wind. It would easily be possible to fasten the main halyard to the sail and lash the sail down until launch . I can't think of any other pin connections to be made other than the tiller but that also can be attached before launch as long as it is kept under control. I put it inside the shroud but alway kept the rudders tied up so they wouldn't accidentally drop while backing up the trailer.

_________________
Howard