Attach "Watersnake Kayak Motor Bracket" to rod holder

I ordered "Watersnake Kayak Motor Bracket" with Watersnake 18lb trolling motor. How would you attach that Watersnake bracket to a removeable rod holder (or milkcrate) instead of screwing into my Hobie Revo 13 hull … especially considering below? Does anyone use that specific bracket seen at https://www.amazon.com/Watersnake-Electric-Trolling-Bracket-Diameter/dp/B071LM6P5K?

I want it removable since do not plan to take on most trips and to avoid problems as sliding hull onto my car top roof for transport.

I’ve studied plenty of existing designs, but none seem to utilize this special watersnake bracket. I could not use the bracket, but its paid for and seems useful with a swivel plate and detachable rods supposedly make motor easy to remove and swivel in any direction. Bracket itself is circlular 3.54” diameter with 4 screw holes and has to be attached to something. I will not even take the motor on most trips, and do not want anything cumbersome or non-removeable.

Idea 1: simply attach bracket to a small wood piece attached to a traditional 16” Hobie Rod Holder Extension. Nobody mentioned this so I assume problem is Hobie holder is not strong enough and/or it will twist … so is it strong enough and would rope(s) prevent movement with clips from existing plastic holders on hull (where bungees clip to) to rod holder (or wood piece or milkcrate)?

Idea 2: attach wood to 2 rod holders as others do. However seems a bit cumbersome to store it but is doable and I would take my normal holders for all the many trips I do not take motor on. Somehow I like #1 or #3 better.

Idea 3: the famous “Tom Kirkman” rod mount seems best since it works and is simple…. except this bracket does not need clamps down by waterline, is bigger diam than pvc pipe cap and seemingly needs to be at or above kayak deck.
FYI…Tom’s simple design has a 3-way pvc T in rod holder with outside hole attached to downward elbow attached to another lower T at waterline alongside the kayak centerline to keep the whole thing from moving or popping out and to attach motor to.
I was thinking use Tom design but instead of 3-way T in rod holder, to put 4-way PVC and attach bracket to forward facing hole so motor attachment is by kayak deck (not down by waterline). There would also be small wood piece since bracket is bigger than PVC (or maybe could use bigger PVC cap?). The design would make bracket vertical which is ok but would it be better to use L shape wood to make bracket be horizontal (motor swivels so any position is ok but maybe horizontal is somehow structurally better?)

Question about Tom Kirkman design…does the bottom piece drag in the water? His video on Adventure kayak, shows it not dragging but the “scum” line on my Hobie Revo makes me think maybe mine will drag a bit?

I bought mine from a kayak place. Here's how he mounted it for me. Makes it easy to put in and pull out. Just swap it with the Mirage Drive. Requires SAE leads to a small battery I put in a battery box on the rear of the kayak. Hope this helps you out:

A couple questions on the pics? Is the motor bracket screwed into the mirage drive insert? Is the motor locked in place? The holes in the insert are they to spray expanding foam in later?

Sorry, couldn't tell ya. This is how the vendor supplied it to me. I will see if I can take a closer look at later today. I have no idea what the drilled holes are for. I suspect he was experimenting with where to place the motor on the cassette (the drive well plug-in grey plastic doo-hickey).

I suspect they are drain holes so the plug doesn’t hold water.

Here is update on my Watersnake-18 experience. As background, I bought the optional "Bracket" to attach to rod holder without drilling/screws in my Hobie Revo 13 hull (and did not want a mirage drive mount). The black colored Bracket has adjustable silver colored rod to connect motor to the bracket. That rod sticks in toward the kayak to be between milkcrate and seat…meaning bracket must be located forward of the rod holder so it does not hit crate.

Pictures show I use PVC with 2 bends screwed at end to flat piece of wood that rests flat on the hull between seat and crate. The bracket is screwed into the wood. I used 4-way tees for the PVC bends just in case I needed to attach more PVC out over the side of hull (like Tom Kirkman did) to keep rod holder from moving/twisting. I tested some (unglued) PVC out over the side and it did keep rod holder from moving BUT I found rod holder did not move without it so I left the Tees open (the empty side holes in the pictures). Thus, I could have just used simple 90 degree bend instead of the 4-way Tee shown.

As for mounting, I like the Watersnake bracket. It allows adjusting motor to be exactly vertical and better yet can swing up when not using (as shown in 2nd picture). Works great at low speed even without hand on the motor handle. At hi speed, hand must be on the handle else the rod hold and/or bracket rod twist so motor gets outa position. I mount motor on left to be away from paddle but that means cannot have left hand on rudder handle and motor handle. So, I slide extension of L-shape PVC (not shown) on motor handle so can hold extension with my right hand. Not shown are straps/ropes to clip motor and bracket to kayak pad eyes just in case motor decides to move around or even go to the briney deep…again not needed for lo speed but is good insurance at hi speed. The motor and backet fit in front hatch so nicely outa way if need be (but hard to put in/out hatch without getting out kayak).

As for performance, works fine when needed BUT I rarely need / use it. Following goes for any motor and is just my opinion for my type of trip. Pedal and paddle are much better. Most trips are a 6 mile loop where I pedal and fish most of the time. So I rarely make an extended run (>1 mile) without fishing. I only take motor as a backup and only use for those rare extended runs when I may be tired, for example if not making a loop so want to bypass long stretches I already fished (like in a long canal). Even with an intended extended run, I always seem to spot fish or likely fish spots to try and the motor is nuisance compared to pedals. Moreover, setting up motor (carry to/from car, connect battery, clip the safety ropes on, etc) seems an un-necessary inconvenience. More importantly, pedaling keeps me awake but using a motor puts me to sleep, so forget strapping motor to kayak…I need to strap myself in when I doze off and fall overboard. The motor is so passive with the low gurgling soothing sound…snore.


belo is motor outa water