Mast Cleats

There was a post recently with a link or part number for the cleats at the bottom of the mast. I can't seem to find that post (it was VERY recent). I need to replace both of the cleats at the bottom of my 16 mast. This will be my first "rivit" repair on my hobie.

Anyone recall what category that thread was under? Any advice before I tackle this?

I understand I need to drill out the old rivets, does that mean my mast will "jingle" after it's done? I assume there is no easy way to get the back half of the rivets out right?

Ull have to remove the mast base by drilling those two rivets as well, then remove the plug inside the mast to be able to remove the cleat rivets left inside. I replaced all the rivets while I was at it...cleats, mast block and base...seal with black 5200 or similar avoid salt water corrosion at rivet points and around base

I keep hearing they rivets aren't standard. What should I look for when buying a gun and rivets? Do they come in different sizes?

Some hobie rivets are monel which is stronger that stainless steel. U could by them out of the hobie dealer I guess but I dont see using them necesary. For the cleats, corner castings, mast block, bails etc I used the standard 3/16" diameter ss rivets I bought at the local aluminum and stainless supplier.

For the rear rivets at mast step I used 1/4" diameter ss. Forward mast step rivets are 3/16".

The orange rivet gun sold at home depot has several sizes to interchange and drive rivets up to the 3/16" diameter, that will drive all but 2 rivets in the hobie 16....rear mast step rivets which are 1/4".

As far as I know, there are two main types of rivet guns.

Basically the ones that I've seen sold at the local hardware stores are not powerful. They have two hand grips that you squeeze together, sort of like a big pair of pliers. These are best suited to aluminum rivets or other soft metals. They can be used to pop stainless rivets, but it takes a very strong squeeze (perhaps a few lengths of pipe to extend the handles would work).

The heavy duty rivet guns are accordian style and are better suited for popping stainless rivets.

As far as drilling out the old rivets, it is best to only drill off the head and then push the shank into the mast. If you drill through the entire rivet, you may enlarge the hole.

Personally, I would (and did) just leave the spent shanks in the mast. Yea, it jingles when you step the mast, but so what. That's a lot better than messing around with mast plugs etc.

sm

I finally received my new trailer rollers last night, so I flipped over the boat and got it back on the trailer, the new paint looks awesome by the way, I can't wait to do the decks.

Anyway, I really got a good chance to look over my "fixed" hardware, and it looks like I have a bit of work to do. Some of the rivets on the frame are visibly loose, so I'll replace those. The traveler tracks for the jib are clearly loose as well. All in all, I think I have quite a bit of riveting to do, in order to get it all solid.

So I don't want to struggle with every rivet. The more I flounder with the tool, the better chance I have of not getting it nice and tight. I guess I'll see what I can dig up at the hardware store, and check online if I strike out.

Thanks for all the replies gang, I can't tell you how much your input helps.

Hobie sells boats with monel rivets for a good reason.
One season will tell you why.
Get them from the dealer network, and worth every penny, especially those that require 'rivet caps', like on a mast. (Keeps things more water proof.)
Rent an air-powered rivet gun, OR buy the foreman a coffee or some other beverage at any decent size industrial plant, and I am sure he will let you 'borrow' it for a few minutes. That's how I assembled my H18 Wings. Who wants to hand rivet 48 monels? My alternative was $25/hr for the rental of an airgun, plus this way, I recruited a new member for our club.

Good winds

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

The regular rivet gun sold at the hardware store has worked fine for me. Yes it takes quite a bit of force with the stainless rivets but for 19$ for the rivet gun its ok. The larger gun I wanted to buy from the autopaint shop was 80$, which also pops the 1/4" rivets.
I didnt buy it but instead trailered the cat to them so they could pop the 1/4" rivets in the mast step. No charge...

Hands hurt after replacing all rivets in the H16 but a 80$ gun for one time use was not an option.

Ive popped many alum and stainless rivets with the gun bought at the hardware store without having to extend the handles with pipes.

If ure using the monel rivets then rent the 80$ gun I wanted. Its a scissor like apparatus with long 18" handles to grip one on each hand.

Do a Search on your name to find the thread.

I don't believe I posted in the thread. Then again, I'm not as quick as I used to be.

http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewt ... ght=#33007

Scroll down past Jeremy's humongo logo.

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Thanks a ton!

I just did my cleats. Most rivet guns work however the trick is, most of the cheaper ones can't get in close enough (ridges on the cleat prevent it). The trick is to use a few small washers to build it out so you can get it tight.

Nice! great tip, I'm in a crappy spot right now...

I have several small areas to fix that are going to require several coats of epoxy to do right. So its turned into a hurry up and wait type of situation. I can work on rivets during the downtime.

I just bought a pneumatic rivet gun for $60. It was less than the heavy duty manual one. It will do any material up to 3/16" diameter. The cheap hand ones will not do an effective job on the Monel no matter what anyone tells you. The material is just too hard and the hand tool is not made for that. I believe the site I bought it from was http://www.blindrivetsupply.com

As stated earlier use the Monel rivets! Stainless and aluminum do not play well together, especially in salt water. I guess you could put the few dollars you save now towards new extrusions like a mast or frame next year. You wouldn't repair your Corvette with Chevette parts, would you? There can be very high loads on these rivets so use what was designed in.

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Nick

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'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO