Awakening H16 from 20 yr. slumber

Finally getting back into sailing. Just bought 1981 H16 complete W/galv. trlr. $500. I'VE ALWAYS WANTED A HOBIE!!! All appears original, solid hulls, sails are crisp, all lines already ordered, appears lightly use but aged. Rigging looks good except lower forestay. Ordering that now. I then read that ALL rigging should be replaced after 5 yrs. WHY? Isn't stainless forever unless damaged by physical force? Also, the jib cars white pullies are have broken down from UV exposer (As well as the white pully at the bottom of the mast...only see 1 pully but there is another little bar there that could have had a second one on) is there a fix for these or do new assemblies need bought? I don't have a problem dropping cash on this boat (I expect to invest quite a bit when all is said and done), but I don't want to waste any money either. Plan to be sailing within a month...hopefully.

Thats exactly what I did, I bought a '74 hobie off my father-in-law's friend for $400 including trailer, at first I didnt even want to go look at the boat, but turns out, it was so covered in dust and dirt, that it protected it from UV light! After more than 30 years, she still doesnt even have a sign of a soft spot. I replaced all the rigging and lines, and disected an older hobie of mine for good parts (Harken 6:1, Hot Stick, Fiberglass rudders, etc.) Last year I saw a comptip on ebay for $90 so I upgraded my mast to a comptip. With a little elbow grease and some patience, I can see myself in the hulls.

Have fun! I did.

If the boat was sailed in fresh water you might be okay with the rigging. Sounds like you've got the money so be safe and get new wires.

Instead of replacing the jib cars with original equipment read through this.
http://www.catsailor.com/forums/showfla ... o=&fpart=1

It'll give you better control of the cars and jib.

Replace the cheek block on the mast. Make sure to use rivet casings (Murray's part # 19-5020) so water won't get inside the mast or inject silicon into the rivet pin hole.

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Thanks for the replies! I ordered the cheek block, rivets, and sealing casings (sealing casings recomended by Murrays website)...Wow that shipping is a...somthing else!...26.60 (total) to get it here to Maryland.
As far as the jib set up, I am studying your diagram, comparing it to the Hobie diagram in the 2007-08 catalog (They appear very simular) AND also looking at the "Lo-Profile Jib Blocks" (#1075) that Hobie offers. I'll need to ponder this. In my newness to this I guess I need to read up on things.

Also considering a new trampoline. Mine is faded blue. Rough on the top side but smooth on the bottom, no tears or rips BUT no one has sat on it for a long time either! Since I need to relace it I think I should do the relacing on a new tramp. Murray's looks appealing. Saw some on Ebay and other sail suppliers. I like the mesh types, would prefer something besides black. The "Hot welded" ones do seem better than the stitched ones. Any inputs or experiences on any of these types of tramps would be very much appreciated.

.....AND WHAT ABOUT BOB?...mast floats, never seen these before, but they look like a good idea. yea's, nay's?

Try Hawaii. You'd think we were in a different country.

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I have no mast bob... but if I turtle where I sail, I'm in a world of hurt because the lake isn't 28 feet deep! I think the bob brings a sort of "stigma" with it...

The Bob is a confidence builder. Many people swear by them, and they do serve a useful purpose. However, anything on the top of the mast will make the boat harder to right. A well sealed mast will go a long way to keep you from going turtle.

LOL, love the picture. "well sealed"... should I hit it up with silicone?

I wouldn't go wild with silicone. Does the mast leak in the first place?

Strip the mast down and submerge it in water as deep as you can. Look for tiny air bubbles - that's where your leaks are.

Non-Comptip masts have foam plugs / metal plates at each end that seal the "tube", so you don't need to seal the rivets on the end castings. Usually what leaks are the rivets on the mast tang.

I have no clue if I have leaks or not. I have yet to capsize my cat.. I need to when I have a crewmate with me.. so they can help right if I can't do it by myself, but I'm betting I can do it solo.. I'm a big dude.

My mast leaks like crazy and I am going to seal her up this week. My question is this: I have a 87' 16 w/comp tip. Is the comp tip a separately sealed area from the aluminum part of the mast. So is it possible to have a leak in my comp tip only? Or can water flow freely from end to end inside the mast?

The Comptip is separately sealed. It's possible to have leaks in both sections, but water should not be able to get from one to the other.

Barren... you do not want to find out if your mast leaks while the mast is attachted to your Hobie - submerege it or try the reversed shop vac strategy. Once you trutel due to a leaking mast your weight will not matter you will not be able to right the boat. Even with outside assistance (motorboat) we were not able to right. We were not even able to get the mast horizontal. Since the pulling with the motor boat caused a good amount of stress on the Hobie we decided to rather drift in a controled way back to the beach where we lifted the mast top out of the shallow water to righten the boat.

Patrick

UPDATE!!!

New mesh tramp arrived Friday. Pulled cat from it's shelter and parked in front af garage Saturday. Collected all the boxes of mail ordered parts and started refitting. Replaced 2 missing rivets. Put Baby Bob on mast...Yeah I know, training wheels...but my wife is easily freaked out on the water so I figure every little bit helps. Used the "prebend" method I read about on this site to install the tramp. Side rail inside distance was 82.25" with old tramp and stayed at that distance with no tramp. Pulled siderails in 2" with cargo ratchet strap, installed tramp and released strap to have rails at 81", so thats 1.25" in from static. I figure a new tramp and lines will easily stretch out after some use, I guess we'll see. Upon dusk, pushed cat into garage and worked on her till 3:00AM!! New neopreme side rail covering, all running rigging, all new standing rigging, retained original fasteners though, this boat appears to have been sailed VERY LITTLE. We'll also leave the trapeze stuff ashore the first few times since we need to aquaint ourselves with the boat and I know NOTHING about trapeze or the different systems...YET. The rudder cams were stuck in the down position so I imagine they never sailed it with the rudders locked. WD-40 and some working back and forth got them up and running. Insalled the "Lo-Profile Jib Blocks" (W/Cammatics) from Hobie. Buffed some rubbing compound on her...still A LONG way to go on that. On the sails, I'm missing jib batton #4 which I guess I can get at a local sail shop or order from Hobie. I need to West System a batton end onto Main Sail Batton #1. All else looks fine...This upcoming weekend appears good for launch!!
When I first bought the boat I needed to replace the wheels and tires before I even brought it home. I just replaced what was already there....8-4.80's this looks like a mistake, lots of extra room under them fenders, plus at 60 or 70mph those little trailer wheels will be doing the equivlent of 300mph. A friend gave me an 8-5.70 for a spare, which looks like it would be perfect for that trailer. Anyone have problems on the highways with these little tires?
ALSO!! What is best for old brittle pinstripe removal? I have the old faded rainbow pinstripes (mostly faded to white now) that need to come off without damaging the hulls. I tried to peel them off but they're too brittle.

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1981 H16.
1993 Macgregor 26S

Use a hairdryer to soften them, then use a plastic scraper to remove the bulk. Use copious amounts of acetone or MEK to remove the bits left over and the adhesive goo. Use nitrile gloves to keep the solvents off your hands.


Caveats:
If you use a heat gun, be VERY careful not to overheat an area - you will permenantly damage the boat.

Do not use a metal scraper - you'll scratch the boat. Old gelcoat is soft.

It's tedious work. Don't be in a hurry.