Rigging wires

Does anyone know if the shrouds/rigging wires are made of stainless or galvanized steel, and what their safe working load is?

It is stainless steel, 1/8” diameter, which has a breaking load of about 1,800 Lbs.

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I have a Getaway (bear with me on this) and I am setting up a H16 all aluminum mast to have in standby if the comp tip breaks (knock on wood). Putting on a Getaway base, shortening, moving the hardware to all conform to the Getaway dimensions.
Has anyone rigged dyneema shrouds for their boat? I know it's been discussed, and would like to know where you get them, and how you size them and put on connection eyes.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks

I have no personal experience with dyneema shrouds but have done a lot of reading on the subject. I know for sure that my dyneema jib halyard does not hold a cleat or knot well (slippery). For standing rigging, dyneema has to be terminated with a buried eye splice, and you probably need a thimble or low friction ring as well. Chafe and UV damage can be a concern. Stretch/creep is less of a concern...especially since dyneema shrouds are typically way oversized with regard to breaking strength. (1/8 inch Amsteel breaking strength is almost 1.4 times what srm lists for 1/8 inch stainless above.)

You can get dyneema by the foot at any marine store, and a rigger can actually make the shrouds for you. (Not trusting my DIY skills, I'd probably go that route!)

Most folks switch to dyneema for the weight savings on higher performance boats, so I have to ask...Why would you do this on a Getaway???

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16

Dyneema - a lot of the folks I sail with use Dyneema.
I-14's, Fireballs, 505's, Corsairs, F18's etc.
Those are all out and out racing boats, and in their case, weight is critical.
Not sure how critical weight is on a Getaway.

The big problem with Dyneema is that it is 'slippery', as mentioned above.
If you can figure out how to secure the ends, go for it.
And check a couple of times every season for UV degradation.

Good luch

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

You know, that's a good question! I guess just to try it out. I guess if my comp tip breaks, I'd just use my existing shrouds. I replaced the factory shrouds after 10 years...freshwater use, no indication of impending failure, but I once had a supposedly good shroud break on another boat and dismasting is very unpleasant!

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks

Understood...I enjoy piddling with boats and learning new stuff, too! I do draw the line pretty early, though, when it seems like I'm just complicating what was designed as a fairly simple boat. I get a chuckle every time I see what Wave racers are doing with those boats these days. The Formula guys have gone so far as to refer to them as F13s...sheesh! (FWIW: I know several H16 people who've replaced their trap wires with dyneema but none that use it for shrouds.)

I'm with you on the dismasting issue. Had the same thing happen on a H16 (mostly freshwater but some saltwater use). That standing rigging was 10 years old as well, and I'll never go that long again before replacing.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16