Set Sail! First time out.

This was my situation as well. It worked well for a few trips, but end the end it eventually destroyed my cam. I guess I need to revisit my non-moving "big screws" and see if I can get them to adjust.

Long post.

Sounds like you could have multiple problems. First you need to understand how the rudder mechanism works to see where your problem(s) might be.

(looking at the rudder and parts diagram while reading this may be helpful. I tried to use the Hobie parts nomenclature)

First, the cams and the (adjustable) cam stop plate (under the adjustable upper rudder casting), and plungers/springs combine to lock the rudders down yet allow it to pop up. I may be wrong, but they do not lock the rudders up. The rudders should unlock automatically if they hit an obstruction (the ease of which is determine by the spring tension of the plunger on the cam). What happens is, pushing up/rotating the rudder forces the cam stop plate to cause the cam to rotate to the unlocked position. To manually unlock the rudders up you lift up on the tiller tube (which also causes the cam to rotate- assuming your cams are free to rotate and the stop plate is properly adjusted). You then lift and pull the tiller tube forward to reposition the upper rudder casting over and onto the forward part of the lower rudder casting to "lock" the rudders up. To lock the rudder down, you lift tiller tube so the upper casting clears the lower rudder casting, then you firmly push aft and down. The stop plate contacts and causes the cam to rotate, capturing the stop plate in the down and locked position.

From my rebuild, I found a couple of problems- first not only were the surfaces of my cams worn and deformed, but the pivot hole in the cam was worn into an oblong shape. My plungers (which are actually spring loaded cam tension followers) were seized, as were the springs, and the cam stop plate (which is an aluminum cam follower mounted under the upper rudder casting) was incorrectly adjusted. Plus everything needed good lubrication.

Since the screws were seized, I followed Matt Millers instructions and drilled out the delrin screw. I used a wood "speed bore" drill bit as recommended, then cleaned the threads with a thread chaser made from a machine bolt which I had made relief cuts in. I replaced the plunger, spring, and delrin screw lubricating thoroughly with some good silicone grease. I drilled out the cam rivets and installed new cams with binding posts screws, again lubricating all surfaces.

Lastly, I lubricated the stop plate, and very importantly, held the rudder in the locked position and adjusted the stop plate so it was firmly seated in the recess in the cam.

My rudders now work very smoothly. I haven't needed to adjust the plunger spring tension yet and haven't had any heavy wind sailing inadvertent rudder pop ups- though a crab pot buoy rope did make one rudder pop up.

Thanks for the description.

I guess I understand correctly how the mechanism works, you confirmed my assumptions .



I replaced one of the plastic cams, because the previous owner has damaged it.
To put the new one in you have to get the spring pressed down, right? (just to make sure that it's assembled correctly). Also the other parts of the system seem to be ok, the previous owner didn't use the hobie often.

I still don't see where the mistake is.

The fuc.... plastic cam doesn't rotates.

My To Do list for the weekend grows longer and longer .

Thanks again
Chriss

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1994 HC16

New cams fixed me up. My old ones were quite a bit softer then the replacements. While I was at it, I oiled up my springs which had a bit of calcium buildup. Everything is working great now. Makes a world of difference.