H18 Help replacing outhaul shock cord in boom

The shock cord on the outhaul car in my boom is shot. Anyone done this repair and can give me some hints or good instructions?

Thanks.

It's been a while since I've taken the outhaul apart, but if I remember correctly, the bungee cord ties off to the backup plate for the outhaul cleat, runs through a loop in the outhaul car, and then runs back to the outhaul cleat.

You need to drill out and remove the rivets that hold on the end cap at the back of the boom. Loosen the screws that hold the outhaul cleat to the boom and slide the cleat back (sometimes the screws are frozen, so WD40 and a good screwdriver help). Pull off the end cap and slide the entire outhaul assembly out of the back of the boom (make sure you don't lose the outhaul rollers). Also slide the outhaul cleat assembly off the back of the boom. Replace the bungee cord. Slide everything back on and re-fasten the cleat. Re-rivet the boom end cap in place. You're done.

sm

Thanks for the info. The parts diagram shows the cord attaching to the outhaul car and running forward, but does not show where it goes from there. I will start by removing the rear endcap, but it seems that seven feet of cord is pretty long if it attaches only to the cleat. I think moving the cleat out is going to be the hardest, the screws are pretty tight and I couldn't loosen them.

7 feet is probably about right. The I'm fairly certain that the cord is doubled- it ties to the cleat bracket with a stopper knot, runs down to the car, and then back to the bracket with another stopper knot. If you look down at the outhaul cleat, you will probably be able to see where the bungee is tied off to the bracket.

It may be possible to replace the bungee without removing the cleat bracket, but I suspect it will be quite difficult because you have to get the bungee through a hole in the bracket and then tie the stopper knot.

Your best bet is to use a liquid penetrant like WD40 or Liquid wrench and a good screwdriver with a big handle on the cleat screws.

sm

I replaced the bungee in my boom a few years ago without taking the end cap off. It took a while using some needle nose pliers and flat head screw drivers to thread it through the hole in the outhaul car and the slot under the cleat but it sure beat drilling out and replacing rivets.

It seems like I was able to move the car forward after the old bungee was removed in order to not have tension on the new bungee while I was doing the threading.

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Paul


2020 Getaway
http://www.fleet297.org

To speed up the process drill out rivets and replace with self-tapping, S/S screws.
There's no significant load on the boom end cap.

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HCANA Class Member

Don't use the SS screws as they will react with the Al boom and end caps. It takes about 5 minutes to remove the end caps and reattach them and is well worth it. I did this job in under an hour. The worst part is taking off the cleats. If you don't already have a hand powered blind rivet gun, you might as well get one for $20. You will get your money's worth.

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Nick

Current Boat
In the market
Previous boats owned
'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
St. Louis, MO

what is purpose of outhaul shock cord please?
outhaul make tight in sail and end of line is locked in cleat...outhaul shock cord help to move car forward?

There is a thread here on the H18/H18SX Forum from just earlier this month in fact (it's not too far down the index ...) called "Making the Outhaul Work Better". Please go read it ... your questions will be answered ...

"Key Words" you should pay attention too that can make your task easier .... Bungie/Tape/Razorblade, Hemostats, Hand Impact (Driver?) .....

To Mr SRM: Yes, your memory is quite correct on how the outhaul system is set-up ..... (I just re-built a boom last year .... or was it the year before? .... Mmmm ... I'm not sure??? ....)

To Karf: The "bungie" pulls the outhaul car forward, while the outhaul line pulls the outhaul car aft ..... Usually there is enough wind to cause the mainsail to "belly" when the outhaul line is released .... but not always .... especially in light airs .....

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HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11

If the end cap is stuck, blast it for a second with a torch then gently tap. It'll come out every time.

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Sail Revolution
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I replaced mine about two weeks - with help from the guys above.

Here were my steps:
1) Drill out SS Rivets on aft boom endcap and remove outhaul car assembly
2) Note the way the Outhaul line is threaded if replacing. I would replace it while your are there (7' line)
3) Using a 7' shock cord thread it thru one side of the holes on the outhaul line jam cleat and tie a stopper knot on the forward end of the cord.
4) Feed the cord aft and thru the front hole of the outhaul car then forward thru the other side of the clamp.
5) Reinsert the car assembly and end cap.
6) Tie a stopper knot in the cord ensuring there is very slight tension on the cord when the car is in the full forward position based on the reach of the 7' Outhaul Line.
7) Pull new SS rivets into cap.

While you have it open I would clean the channel, ensure the car assembly is in good shape and straight - mine was slightly bent and would bind in the channel. I sprayed dry sililcone (Sail Kote) in the channel and on the white bearings.

I used a rivet puller I bought from Harbor Freight for $14. Long handled for doing the SS rivets. Be sure to use SS and not the screws as mentioned above.

I would also replace both plastic jam cleats on the boom with metal cleats if you still have the OE plastic ones. As well as the line.

Good Luck. Mine travels great now - its nice to not have to push the sail "full" in low wind now.

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1984 Hobie 18

Some may argue this, but IMO, the aft end boom cap is one of the few places that does not require the use of stainless steel rivets. All the rivets do is keep the cap from falling out of the boom, so I prefer to use aluminum as it it plenty strong for this application. Aluminum rivets are easier to pop (not that stainless are that hard with the right tool) but more importantly they eliminate a galvanic corrosion point. They're also easier than stainless to remove for future rebuilds.

Good call on replacing the plastic OEM outhaul & rotator cleats. Plastic have a bad tendency to slip and/or crack.

sm

O man, I just noticed that the original question here was posted in 2007 I was excited to help the guy out with my new found knowledge - hoping he has his new shock cord in by now!!

Did not even notice we (except Harry) blew past "karf's" question.

I believe the Outhaul Shock is to move the clew (aft portion) of the sail forward allowing it to luff out without having to move it by hand - usually in a low wind situation. More experience sailors here may have a better answer.

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1984 Hobie 18

with bungie you mean somethink like flexible gum rope? hmm. its very clever . I will mount it quickly