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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 4:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 2:02 pm
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Location: SJ, PUERTO RICO
Hi, on my prev thread I inquired about the mainsheet cam cleat and line unlocking by the upside down position of the cleat and the line's weight when soaked etc.

Anyways... Jeremy's idea...

What about mainsheet lines... which brand, model, diameter, cost and what are the benefits uve found over others tried??

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:06 am 
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Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Regarding the uncleating of the main sheet...that would have to be a VERY heavy line to uncleat itself. I believe that you are more likely having troubles with the cleat. Either the teeth of the cleat are worn or one or both of the springs inside the cleat are ineffective.

As for lines, I have been researching the types available as upgrades from stock. Apparently there are primarly two main factors to consider:
Waterproof and light - usually has a newer tech shell, resists water absorption, can be harder to uncleat due to this lightness. Dyneema seems to be typical.
Polypro and Soft - Stock line that is inexpensive, soaks up water so tends to be heavier, easier to uncleat due to the weight. Perhaps you are using too thick of line and it is absorbing too much water?

Popular right now is the Salsa line...very soft and runs very well thru the blocks as long as you don't oversize. Not as expensive as some of the newer and lighter lines.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:29 am 
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Ok lets start with size...what diameter works best?

5/16, 3/8, 1/2"


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:03 am 
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Location: OC NJ
Try this:


http://www.hcana.hobieclass.com/?Page=2169


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:06 am 
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Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Remembering that there is no one single answer for everyone, the standard is 3/8". A larger diameter line will be easier to sheet in tight and causes less stress on the hands, but doesn't typically flow as well thru the blocks which is necessary if you are racing competitively. A smaller diameter line will flow better but may be more difficult to unsheet if it's too light and will tend to tangle more.
Whatever you choose should be tangle free, soft enough for your preferred feel, and absorb little to no water.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 2:39 am 
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Location: Ft Walton Beach, Fl
I've got a Murrays 3/8th dacron line, its a good size but not a soft as I like. I had the local dealer send me a little bit of the Hobie 3/8th and its definately smaller but soft like the sheet thats been on the boat that I really like.

The dealer is getting me the Hobie 7/16 which will probably match the old sheet and the Murrays 3/8th The Murrays and Hobie 3/8th both look like the core is the same size but the dacron covering is made differently.

I tried some lightweight mainsheet also, but it got washed off the boat all the time so I'm using it for the jib line.. The heavier dacron with isnt as easy to lose.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:01 am 
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Location: Santa Cruz
On the FX I like to use 8mm racing sheet from FSE Robline. It has good grip and flows through the blocks well. I use 6mm for spin sheets, but I have to use a double ratchet set up in high winds.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 7:21 pm
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Location: Thunder Bay,On
I have experimented with some 6mm rooster mainsheet on my 16 on light air days and loved it.When the wind picked up it was a little harder to handle and found the 5/16 mainsheet that comes stock with the new boat good.
Rules question ,are you allowed to switch mainsheet lines during a regatta i.e heavy air and light air sheets


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 7:02 pm 
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Location: Northfield Minnesota
Slim changes his jib sheets for conditions. Lighter line for lighter wind. I don't know if he does this during the regatta, but he does get up before everyone else, so who knows?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 4:40 am 
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Location: Thunder Bay,On
Hey Karl.Shoot me an E-mail and fill me in on how the regatta went.I understand there was a pretty tough 16A fleet


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